4.0L SOHC Valve Cover Gasket Job - Some Notes

[Dan1818]

Markaprice73, wow just realized youre only 30 miles from me lol

 

[Markaprice73]

Cool just take your time. Take a pic of everything over the valve cover first to help in case you don't remember how everything was routed. Also, remove the dpfe sensor(it has the two exhaust pipes and hoses going to it). I thought I could squeak the vc by it. Nope. I snapped one of the plastic nipples off. $65 mistake. ..post here tomorrow if you run into any issues or feel free to personal message me with your phone #(however you do that here?) if you have any immediate questions. I can check this thread periodically tomorrow. Good luck

 

[Markaprice73]

1 tip. Try and unclip the fuel line bracket (down by the #4 (front)spark plug)with a screwdriver. You will be able to full a few inches of fuel line up though it to give you slack to move the fuel line to the side that covers the valve cover. You may even be able to spray some lube on the bracket and gently pull up on the fuel line if you can't get it unlatched. The first time I did this job I was successful in disconnecting and re attaching it. The second time, I mangled the latch and couldn't get it back latched. But it holds snug. ...this is if you don't want to mess with disconnecting the fuel line.

 

[Dan1818]

Pm.

I sent you a Pm.

 

[Jimtrucky]

I see most of these posts say the egr tube is on drivers side. My 2003 explorer xlt 4.0 sohc has it on passenger side. Has anyone had this? Also there is some kind of spongey bag type thing sitting under the plenum right in the valley? What is this? Some sort of heat shield?

 

[sr139fox]

What is the torque value for the bolts and studs on the valve covers. Did you use any sealant to hold the gasket in place or to help it seal? I will be attempting this late this week. Dave P

 

[just1me]

I just snugged down my bolts, but I didn't use any sealant, the gasket fit in the groove just fine and stayed in place for me, I haven't had a leak since.

 

[sr139fox]

Thanks

 

[Blackonblack02]

1. I've just completed this job on my 2002 4.0L V6 4WD, and wanted to throw in my findings.
   
   First, the longest part of this job is removing the upper intake manifold. You might as well replace the intake manifold gaskets while at it. All in all I think it cost me about $70 for all the gaskets, PB Blaster, two large wrenches, and silicone sealant. I did a free rental at Autozone for the torque wrench ($55 with tax), and would suggest that to anyone without one.
   
   The EGR tube was the toughest part for me, and I'd suggest the PB Blaster on both ends and then both a 1" (25mm) and a 1 1/16" (27mm) wrench. You have to remove the EGR tube to remove the passenger valve cover, I bent mine to get it out and took the fuel rail off, both causing extra work where the right tools and patience would have sufficed. Spray it down and let it sit for a bit before getting your grip ready to bear down on it. The 1" to hold double ended nut that holds the EGR tube to the exhaust manifold, and the 1 1/16" wrench to loosen the nut on the EGR valve. While working on the top nut, I loosened the bottom nut from the manifold rather than the top but from it, as the rust held them together. Make sure to re-tighten the bottom nut on re-install. Once you break the rust it will slip right off. Do not bend the EGR tube, which some recommended, because it will take you hours to get the right bend back on re-install. It is much easier to access through the passenger wheel well than from the top. Here is a pic of the bottom side: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxQ5fv5-U3pgSHY5R0ZTYmRnVi1JeG9KMElmd3pseFJfQVNr
   
   Second, to access the back torx bolt on the intake, I found the perfect combination of extensions. A 3/8" drive torx bit on a 6" extension, a 3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter, and a 1/4" drive rachet. Basically, 8" will get you over the intake and under the firewall without a universal or swivel bit. Here is a pic of that: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxQ5fv5-U3pgSVdYWDdjVzhHRVF6UDlYcWR1OFNPZWRKNzdB
   
   Lastly, take photos and/or label your vacuum lines to ensure a quick and correct re-install of the intake manifold. I got mine all back together, cranked it, and had a bad seal on one of the new intake manifold gaskets, causing me to re-do half the job. I've had numerous choice words for the ford engineers in this job, and hope to never see this part of this car again. If I never see the term "EGR tube" again in my life I won't be upset, but it did save over $300 to do it myself.
   
   It took mine a few minutes to burn the extra PB Blaster on the exhaust manifold off, but watch the connections and listen for hissing and leaks in the vacuum.
   
   Thanks to all who posted, giving me valuable instructions before jumping headfirst into this!