4.6L DOHC head cooling and crossover delete mods | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.6L DOHC head cooling and crossover delete mods

Are you using a mach1 intake manifold or stock aviator?

That sucks man sorry to hear that. Tearing back into stuff is always a bummer
 



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@2000StreetRod @massacre The thread jumped from Dec. 2017 to Oct. 2018, abruptly. What happened in between?

I like this thread a whole lot, and hate to criticize it, which I will in a fuzzy, "rounded-edges" way. An enormous amount of concentrated effort went into this, to achieve a DOHC install instead of an SOHC, as I see it. My own previous ridiculous transplants (mine, not inferring yours!), involved efforts requiring even chassis/suspension mods to stuff my 430 cube Lincoln in several Falcons, after the first and easy install in my '55 Mercury. Just examples, many others followed.

My critique? 30 years younger, I would have sought to find a '69 or so 427 SOHC "Cammer" to stuff in, rather than a nice, new design having chains up the whazzoo (I think?). Recall cammer had only one, like the Caterpillar D-336 Diesel below:
img18810.jpg


Note that the Cat has brand-new, untarnished exhaust manifold leading to that turbo. It was just being installed on one of our dyno pads. Believe it was rated 350HP, it ran cycling every few minutes between idle and full-out for several weeks at a time. I am quite fortunate to have experienced spectacles like this, which made going to work daily a pleasure! imp
 












@2000StreetRod @massacre The thread jumped from Dec. 2017 to Oct. 2018, abruptly. What happened in between?

I like this thread a whole lot, and hate to criticize it, which I will in a fuzzy, "rounded-edges" way. An enormous amount of concentrated effort went into this, to achieve a DOHC install instead of an SOHC, as I see it. . .

This is my last project vehicle. Having owned several inline DOHC powered vehicles in the distant past (5 Jaguars, an Alfa Romeo and a BMW 635CSi) I wanted to rebuild and install a DOHC V8. No body modifications were required and the Explorer stock exhaust downpipes bolted right up to the Aviator exhaust manifolds. Below are links to related threads that describe the project:
Next project vehicle?
DOHC 4.6L V8 build
Motorized pre-oiler
2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal
ATF to Fluid Cooler for my 2003 Centennial
 






I removed the intake plenum and the left to right bank fuel supply to gain limited access to the coolant hoses between the block and firewall. With my fingers extended I was able to feel a leak at "A" shown below.
Leak1.jpg

Using 1/4 inch drive sockets, wobble joint extensions and u-joint I was able to tighten all of the quality (made in Germany) motorcycle hose clamps and the leak persists even when the system is not pressurized. Looking up from the passenger side fender well I can see it dripping every 40 seconds from "B" above. I haven't determined if the source is the "T" at "A" or the fittings or O ring in the head to the "B" adapter. I doubt that the source is the valley between the heads because that would drip from the bottom of the head instead of "B". I bent a length of 12 gauge insulated copper wire to hold a piece of paper towel to probe with. I want to positively isolate the leak source before proceeding further. As a minimum I'll have to remove the EGR tube to be able to replace any of the cooling mod components.
 






How is that fitting installed in the freeze plug port? The stock pieces have flanges that bolt to the block, and use an o ring. You could have rolled the o ring, I know that has happened to me before.
It might be too much pressure there as well, I have seen it happen to other guys who teed both heads together.
I used braided AN lines and fittings for mine and there are no leaks anywhere. I know they are more money but when things get tight, sometimes it’s worth it to not ever have to go back in that tight space again. Also I have the tools to make the lines so it was cheaper than having them made plus I cut them to my exact length.
 






I found and stopped the leak. It was at the lower hose clamp at "A".
Leak1.jpg

I repositioned the clamp closer to the barb and tightened. It didn't leak at 17 psi (1 psi above cap rating) but there were other leaks at the radiator lower hose connection, the "T" for the ATF liquid cooler and the supply hose to the rear heating system. I was able to easily fix the first two leaks by tightening the associated hose clamps. For the rear heater I had reused the spring style clamp so I replaced it with a screw type clamp. I'm about ready to reinstall the fuel supply cross over and intake plenum.
 






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