4.6l Timing Chain Guide DIY project?

[Number4]

1) I saw one YouTube video where the guy just used wire ties to tension the chain first so it wouldn't jump teeth, then looked like he was able to remove the guides and tensioners without messing with the cam sprockets. Do the cam sprockets & chain need to be removed? Looks like they don't.

• Wire ties, zip ties, I used zip ties after my passenger cam sprocket jumped a chain link. Just have to watch because the zip ties will want to slide down the chain. Also, make sure the ties are thick enough. Sprockets and chain most likely won't need replaced.
• When done, count the chain links from the timing mark on the crank sprocket to the timing mark on the cam sprocket. Make sure there are the same amount of links. Do this before letting the tensioners loose. Or you'll have to remove them to rotate the cam sprocket.
• Again, mine jumped one link. You'll hear it if it does. But, depending on how long you've been in need of this repair, it's possible that you've also jumped a link.

2)Oil does the pan hold the full volume of oil so that it does not need to be drained to pull Ft cover? I just changed the oil and filter.

• Oil pan will hold all the oil. Assuming the Ex has not be run for a while. I let mine set over night before touching.

3) I may have the composite tensioners depending on my build date ( its a 2003) . Can I use the earlier ratchet lock cast tensioners even though parts listings say <10/2002. They look more robust and what I read probably better I see they are available if they fit I would rather go that way.

• You may have composite, as 02 was the last year for the cast. It's a debate about the quality. Mine were "composite" and went 150k before the seal went out in one. Ford Racing uses the cast ones IIRC.

4) If I do have the cast/ratchet tensioners (and they haven't been ground down yet ) Anything special to retract them with the ratchets like some release mechanism> I can see the pin hole that keeps them retracted like when new or when re-installing them. I suspect the pin only allows them to be locked when they are fully retracted ?

• Follow the instructions in the Haynes or Chilton's manual. Buy one if you haven't already. They are useful, for torque specs if anything. I believe you use a bench vice (with towels or some kind of padding) to compress, then use a paperclip to keep them from expanding. On the Ex, you'll have to undo the two mounting bolts per tensioner. I wouldn't open the timing and not replace them anyway. Follow my first bullet before removing the tensioners though.

As soon as you undo the tensioners, your chains will have slack and the cams will want to rotate. So zip tie first and do one side at a time. I didn't need to replace the chain nor the gears. However, the 'phaser wheel' that the crank sensor reads, had been hit with the chain at start up. It was around $20 at the dealer and doesn't come in the timing kits. It was a day away. Do the guides and the tensioners if you open it up.

I used the bump method to undo the damper bolt. Had to tap it a couple of times. It's just a tap, not a crank. Also used a strap wrench as well later on.

I used this with some long bolts to hold the balancer in place while torqueing it. Along with a cheater bar to allow it to contact the ground.
It's hard to see, but there are two "pins" that come out and the bolts went right in. I did take up the gap between the tool and where the bolts went into the balancer with a couple of deep impact sockets. This way the bolts wouldn't try to bend while torqueing the balancer bolt.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...iversal-Pulley-Holders/_/R-SER3900_0293962624

Only done it once, by no means a professional. Would have liked to have replaced the gears and chains, but didn't want to risk messing up the heads. There are a couple of posts about how to do it, as well as a Ford Racing doc online. But I needed my rig up and running and couldn't risk it.