4R44E valve body diagrams are needed.

[codyboy]

I'm trying to learn more about my 4r44e transmission with your guys help.I really need to understand the hydraulic flow and operations of the valve body and applying components better before I drop this pan again. So I'm hoping that anyone here can post these diagrams and their explanation for me. I really want to avoid buying another manual since the atsg one didn't have these diagrams. Thanks. BTW, All the sensors that the pcm rely on have been checked.i just remembered that aerostars use 4r44e also and so the duplicate thread.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The 5R55E valve body is similar. This diagram is from Glacier991's photo gallery:

There are two PDFs attached to this post from TransGo.

 

[codyboy]

thanms Brooklyn

thank you so much Brooklyn. I appreciate the reply. So I'm getting many views on my posts but no one else has replied but you. does this mean many of are also looking for these VB hydraulic diagrams and that it seems no one has them or am I simply asking the wrong questions?
having the actual valve pictures with the fluid flow explained and what band or clutch is applying at what time. the ASTG manual I bought did not have these diagrams. Btw. Did you read on a previous thread what my tranny issues are?I can understand how frustrating it is to repeat stuff on these forums.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Your other threads about this issue were deleted. We have to keep everything in the same thread or it will get confusing since people will post a response in each thread. This is what is meant by "everybody is on the same page". Let me know if you need any other diagrams. Glacier991 has a thread on rebuilding a 5R55E valve body in the transmission section of this site.

 

[codyboy]

thank you for clearing that up. I suppose you must do a lot with newbies. sorry.I now understand that what I was asking for to get these VB hydraulics diagrams might be considered copyright infringement.it's hard to know what's legal and what's not so many pages, pictures and posts are seen on this forum. I guess I have to simply ask what I need to know. so the first of many questions to come will be: why does the reserve servo in my truck not have a return spring?can you answer this or should I start a new thread

 

[BrooklynBay]

The valve body in the A4LD as well as the 4R44E is a like a road map. It has fluid going through various channels just like highways. On the A4LD, the fluid would flow in one direction causing the servo to apply, then the spring pushed the servo manually back into its original position. On the 4R44E, the fluid "probably" flows both ways in this channel, but I'm not completely certain. This seems to be the only possible answer. I remember asking this question to Glacier991 years ago. He said that the fluid is routed differently, and I should look at a hydraulic map of both valve bodies.

 

[codyboy]

so that makes a lot of sense.it can't just be fluid exhaust that brings the servo off the band. Fluid must also push it back.so two of the things that might be causing the transmission to shudder when initially engaging reverse could be
1.Rev. servo leaking, (due to seaIs/bore wear/broken pin) requiring more throttle to increase pressure.I say this because the more I rev the engine, the quicker and harder it engages. what's not making sense to me is that even after it engages, reverse gear holds,it does not bleed off releasing the band.So if there i a servo leak, it must be on the input side. Regardless, these rings will be changed. If I use the newer D type seals, I'm afraid the servo will stick because of no return spring.whats your opnion?
2. If the reverse servo and band are working right, which I have to assume since i get manual first gear, then this means the direct clutch is not engaging until I rev the engine. Does this mean that the piston seaIs are leaking? a worn check ball in the piston is allowing a premature exhaust? Could it be that a maladjusted tight intermediate band is binding the direct drum enough to cause a shudder? Again, what's
Confusing is that the shudder disappears when reverse is fully engaged. Can both of these problems be due to a sluggish EPC WHICH IS AT 7 OHMS? Btw, I got a dtc P1701 reverse engagement failure today for the first time ever if that helps.

3. WOULD you have a clue as to why the transmission feels like it's binding or tied up when the coast clutch is engaged in both the drive gear with Tcs on( overdrive cancelled) and when in manual 1st,2nd,
But not in normal drive with TCS OFF? These situations also cause the transmission geartrain to be held preventing it from rolling backwards down a hill, just as if I were holding the brakes. If I'm going forward at a low speed, it actually retards the rpms , almost like a jake brake on a rig, a harsh engine braking. Is it possible the coast clutch circuit is bleeding into the overdrive band circuit causing a tie up situation? I know I may be overanalyzing these symptoms, so sorry for that.
I have one last dtc P0756 sol b stuck confirmed. I've read that this is usually not an electrical problem but a mechanical one or an obstruction in the solenoid.I'm assuming at this point that the intermediate band is applying, if at all in 2nd gear,, very briefly. It seems like it's skipping 2nd gear, flaring very quickly into 3rd. What's confusing here is that if I turn TCS ON, IT literally feels like I'm cancelling overdrive, which only happens in 4th gear(O/D). THE rpms are consistent with 3rd gear. What a mess. All in all, the truck is getting me where I need to go, locally.
Again, sorry for the long post. I'm not expecting concrete answers, just a little guidance.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could use the Transtec D ring kit for the low/reverse servo. You might have a problem with the reverse modulation valve spool sticking or losing hydraulic pressure in the valve body. Sonnax makes an end plug kit with O ring seals. Did you check the internal wiring harness, and the shift solenoids with an Ohmmeter? Do you want to rebuild the valve body?

 

[codyboy]

repaired valve body.

Thats a great suggestion. I did actually get my tranny going again after having the initial slipping failures by replacing torn gaskets. It was slipping just slightly after that fix. The valve body was disassembled, cleaned, and I used high temp thread sealer on all the plugs except on the fwd engagement plug, which I understand needs to fits loosely. The 2 spools in the reverse bore were fine, but I believe the plug seperating both spools might be leaking because it fitted loosely. Is it suppose to be tight? Are these the valves that feed the rev band and clutch when the manual valve is put into reverse? Someone, I believe on this forum, suggested putting loctite on it to seal it, or maybe I can use a pipe cutter to form a ridged seal around the plug, forcing it to seal itself. Btw, it's the same situation with the plug in the coast clutch bore fitting loosely. What would be the major symptoms if this plug is leaking? I feel I have to be resolved to accept your next prudent suggestion. "REPLACE THE VALVE BODY"!

 

[codyboy]

about harness

Yes. All the solenoids checked out ohmwise, EPC was about 7 ohms though. I saw a YouTube video showing how to check to see if the solenoid ports are actual opening when energized. I regret not doing that, ensuring proper operation. Just cause it clicks doesn't mean it works.

the wiring harness was shot. All the wires were brittle and exposed, so I just replaced each wire carefully. IT was tedious but doable with much patience needed. My only concern was using copper wires. The original were, maybe zinc/aluminum alloy? Any idea if this can be a concern? Or was ford just being cheap?

 

[codyboy]

rebuild valve body

So brooklyn bay. I would like to rebuild the valve body again. Were you going to suggest a thread or something?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The transmission section has Glacier991's valve body rebuilding thread. I would suggest getting a new internal wiring harness instead of repairing the old one. Check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com. Another option is to have a place such as WWW.CentralValveBodies.Com check your old valve body. If it checks out OK, then you pay them for their service, and they will send it back. If it's no good, then they could either rebuild it for you or mail you one which was already rebuilt. Donny Lester knows about this website, and usually gives members a discount. Just say that you're a member of Explorer Forum.

 

[codyboy]

perfect, thanks

That sounds like the most logical steps to take for this valve body. I'm going to rebuild this transmission anyway. Even though it will be my first one, I'm very confident I won't mess it up. I'm have seen the rebuild diaries and will use them the best I can. Can you think of any other pitfall i might encounter while rebuilding, besides what's mentioned in the ASTG manual. I'm sure many here have experienced certain things to look out for that can benefit newbies like myself.

 

[BrooklynBay]

One thing that you could do to save on a rebuild job is to get a transmission test plate, and air test each section of the transmission. This will tell you if there's a problem with an individual section so you'll know where to look. If you don't find any leaks in the transmission, then have the valve body checked by Donny. How many miles do you have on this transmission?

 

[codyboy]

Over 200k. So you mean a testplate to test transmission leakage after the valve body is removed, and not the plate for a wet airtest like sonnax suggests?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Sonnax has a universal test plate for a wet air test for a valve body.You could use it, but it's not the same as a transmission specific OTC/Rotunda air test plate for a transmission (not a valve body). The transmission specific test plate tests each individual section of the transmission with the valve body off.

 

[codyboy]

obtained vb hydraulic maps

Great. I'll look that up. I bit the bullet and got a subscription with Mitchell 1 and the vb diagrams are there, but since the directions of fluid flow aren't noted, it's hard to understand what is feeding and exhausting in each solenoid and therefore defeating the whole purpose of trying to understand what is happening in each gear.
Anyhow, I am posting these statements that don't make sense. Could you please confirm the validity of these statements!
1)the ccs receives signal from pcm. The TCC controls application and release of coast clutch.........
The TCC is an obvious typo. Should be CCS. DO you agree?
2)if solenoid fails in ON position, no coast braking occurs (except in 4th gear)....
If this means the solenoid is stuck on or always energized, that means the coast clutch is engaged and braking DOES occur. Also, how can braking occur in 4th gear which is overdrive. Doesn't applying the coast clutch stop the O/D sprag overunning and cancels
overcrive?
3) if solenoid fails in off position,coast braking occurs in 2nd and 3rd gear.........
Am I misunderstanding whats written here?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The TCC & EPC solenoids are pulse width modulated (PWM), so they are never fully closed like the solenoids on the A4LD which are regular on/off solenoids. The shift solenoids are regular on/off solenoids.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here's another break out view of the valve body from WWW.Wittrans.Com: