4WD won't work | Ford Explorer Forums

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4WD won't work

Dendro_4.6

Member
Joined
February 19, 2008
Messages
28
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0
City, State
Cedar Rapids, IA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Sport
In my '94 Sport, my 4WD won't work. I replaced the actuator, and feel it wanting to kick in. When I put it into 4W low, I hear it moving and "popping" into plave...i think The lights on the dash work, and I even packed the hubs with grease. I have auto locking hubs, the actuator works, and I can hear something moving below when I push either of the buttons.

Anyone have any advise?

Thanks
 



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In my '94 Sport, my 4WD won't work. I replaced the actuator, and feel it wanting to kick in. When I put it into 4W low, I hear it moving and "popping" into plave...i think The lights on the dash work, and I even packed the hubs with grease. I have auto locking hubs, the actuator works, and I can hear something moving below when I push either of the buttons.

Anyone have any advise?

Thanks

The hubs are a dry assembly, if they are packed with grease they will malfunction. Grease will/can hydro-lock the assemble and cause engagement problems. Search on "HUBs" or browse through the repair info in my signature line for good info..

Did you check out the Troubleshooting 4x4 problems Thread?
 






The hubs are a dry assembly, if they are packed with grease they will malfunction. Grease will/can hydro-lock the assemble and cause engagement problems. Search on "HUBs" or browse through the repair info in my signature line for good info..

Did you check out the Troubleshooting 4x4 problems Thread?

That is funny, because when I took off the hubs this past fall, there was greese already packed in there... maybe that was why they didn't work.

I'm new to the 4x4 world, anything else and I'm quite knowledgeable... have a 11 sec Mustang... anyways, you think the greese is the main culprit? I will clean out the greese and see if that works.

I also wanted to say that evey once and awhile, the 4WD Low light comes on, and it is not engaged... even the 4WD hight isn't engaged. Is this a singnal for something?

Thanks,
 






That is funny, because when I took off the hubs this past fall, there was greese already packed in there... maybe that was why they didn't work.

I'm new to the 4x4 world, anything else and I'm quite knowledgeable... have a 11 sec Mustang... anyways, you think the greese is the main culprit? I will clean out the greese and see if that works.

I also wanted to say that evey once and awhile, the 4WD Low light comes on, and it is not engaged... even the 4WD hight isn't engaged. Is this a singnal for something?

Thanks,

It is very common for mechanics unfamiliar with 4x4s to pack HUBS with grease in the mistaken assumption they need it. From the HUB Repair link

The hubs will not function correctly or at all if there is any grease compressed in the end. If you or your mechanic have a habit of generously coating the splines on the stub axle with grease, give it up. The only thing the grease is for is to keep the splines from rusting. In normal service, the only time anything slides on the splines is when you assemble the hub to the rotor.

Grease or accumulated crud in the hub will pack in around the coil spring that preloads the engagement mechanism towards the disengaged position. More than a tiny bit will prevent the hub from engaging completely, since it hydraulic locks the sliding part under the spring. That prevents the engagement cam from idling all the way up on the flat part where it is completely engaged and 'latched'. If it doesn't engage completely, it will go in and out depending on the load on the axle. Your "don't back up at all" observation is probably based on this problem.

It is also common for the 4x4 BUTTON lights to partially illuminate from time to time. Mine do this a few times per month (more often in cold weather). It appears to be related to a stray signal and in no way indicates 4x4 is engaged.

The dash 4x4 lights (high & low) will only come on when the T-Case shift selector shaft has been rotated to the respective setting (4H/4L). When this occurs electrical contact is made and the dash lights come on.
 






So if I take a brake cleaner to the hubs after removing the greese, and then maybe soaking them in a luricant (maybe ATF) they should be alright, depending on the preexisting condition before the greese was applied (before I even purchased the truck.

Thanks
 






Welcome To The Forum!
On my first gen sometimes my lights too would be partially lit and the 4wheel system worked great so not really a sign of something going bad.
 






Hmm...I've heard of this happening, but the guy who had the problem got all the grease out of the hubs, repacked them with bearing grease, and it worked just fine.
 






Hmm...I've heard of this happening, but the guy who had the problem got all the grease out of the hubs, repacked them with bearing grease, and it worked just fine.

That is what I used. I used the wheel bearing greese I use on my boat trailer.

Thanks,
 






Cool! Glad it worked.
 












Get some manual hubs and leave the weak automatics alone.
If you've already regreased them and what not then there probably shot.
 






Get some manual hubs and leave the weak automatics alone.
If you've already regreased them and what not then there probably shot.

Yeah, those stock hubs are crap. A friend of mine went through 3 sets before replacing them with some Warn hubs. He said he regrets not putting them in sooner.
 






Yeah, those stock hubs are crap. A friend of mine went through 3 sets before replacing them with some Warn hubs. He said he regrets not putting them in sooner.

I see where I can get some manual hubs for $120, and that would be the cheapest car part I have bought in a long time! Just replaced the top part of my Mustang's 4.6 with performance parts. I also have to say the explorer 4.0 is not a hard engine to work on... good old pushrod!:D

I will put the manual hubs in, and see if that fixes the problem.

Thanks guys!
 






There really is no "if" about that fixing it. manual hubs are great, just remember to unlock them when you're not in 4WD. Some people say it's unnnecessary, but it will work your front diff a lot more when you go around corners. If you have a limited slip or locker in the front, then it's mandatory that you unlock your hubs when out of 4WD.
 






Leaving them locked in won't hurt ya, all its pretty much doing is moving the gears in your front diff. me and other folks here have done it, and experienced no negative after effects. But if you turn as sharp as what you can alot then it could work your front end some but not near as bad as if you have the 4wd engaged through the t-case.
 






Eh, I guess if it doesn't hurt ya, can't go wrong. I just play it safe and keep 'em unlocked. That's just me.
 






Leaving them locked in won't hurt ya, all its pretty much doing is moving the gears in your front diff. me and other folks here have done it, and experienced no negative after effects. But if you turn as sharp as what you can alot then it could work your front end some but not near as bad as if you have the 4wd engaged through the t-case.

Yea I accidently left mine locked in for a week and couldnt tell a difference.


You will also need the conversion kit when going from auto to manual hubs as the spindle nuts are different. I found that autozone was the cheapest around where I live but you might me able to find them cheaper.
 






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