4x4 Not Disengaging on 98 XLT w/Electronic T-case | Ford Explorer Forums

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4x4 Not Disengaging on 98 XLT w/Electronic T-case

averagejoe

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January 17, 2007
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City, State
Rochester, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT 4.0 SOHC
So having four wheel drive is great, but right now my rig is not disengaging from 4-Hi. Anyone else know a possible cause and or solution.- Thanks
 



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Hey there averagejoe.

Some people have disconnected their battery for a few minutes and reconnected it -- that sometimes disengages the 4wd.
 






That's a bit tougher to figure out. It could be a mechanical problem with the transfer case itself, or the case could be getting an uncommanded signal to stay locked.

Is the 4high light staying lit, or is it just a mechanical binding at this point?

If the lights are out but the system feels locked, the first thing I would do is disconnect the connector at the transfer case. The 4wd lights will come on, but it's no big deal. Take it for a drive and see if it feels like it's disengaged. If so, that tells me that the case is fine, but it's receiving a signal when it shouldn't be.

Start there and let us know what you find. :)

-Joe
 






Thanks for the tips, I suppose I should have mentioned earlier what T-case I have... I'ts the BW 44-05. Now does that also mean that I have "control-trac" as well?

As for the 4x4 not disengaging, the 4-high dash light goes out when I swich into auto mode, so maybe its like you say, a mechanical binding. Since my last post, and after 2 days of driving in 4WD, it finally released after hammering the gas pedal again on a snowy street. I've since tried all the T-case gears again and so far is is releasing like it should. But it still makes me wonder if there is something that caused the problem in the first place. It is the first time this season I've really used the 4WD since we've had a lack of snow... maybe it was just "a bit rusty"

Thanks-averagejoe
 






Mine did this 2 weeks ago for some odd reason... only difference was mine stuck in 4 wheel-low. It did this without me even touching the switch... I just got in a cranked up and bam, 4 wheel-low. I ended up driving the 1.5 miles home in low and disconnected the battery cables and it fixed the problem. I have no idea why it did it but ever since it's been working fine.
 






Thanks for the tips, I suppose I should have mentioned earlier what T-case I have... I'ts the BW 44-05. Now does that also mean that I have "control-trac" as well?

With a V-6, we already knew you had a 44-05. It's the only selectable t-case offered on a second-gen Explorer, and yes, you have the Control-Trac system. (It's actually a trademark name from Borg-Warner according to the sticker on the case)

As for the 4x4 not disengaging, the 4-high dash light goes out when I swich into auto mode, so maybe its like you say, a mechanical binding. Since my last post, and after 2 days of driving in 4WD, it finally released after hammering the gas pedal again on a snowy street. I've since tried all the T-case gears again and so far is is releasing like it should. But it still makes me wonder if there is something that caused the problem in the first place. It is the first time this season I've really used the 4WD since we've had a lack of snow... maybe it was just "a bit rusty"

Thanks-averagejoe


The system normally cycles in and out periodically based on some unknown algorithm that takes into account throttle position, vehicle speed, engine RPM and load, wheel slippage, and what phase the moon is in. Just because it's working now, that doesn't necessarily lead it towards being a mechanical bind-up. At least it's working. If it only does it this one time, I wouldn't sweat it. If it gets worse, we can continue with the diagnosis. :)

FWIW, about 8 years ago, at the end of an off-ramp after an hour of freeway driving, the 4wd lights started flashing. Until last Wednesday, they hadn't done it since, and even after they came on last week, there was no code stored, and they haven't come back on since. {knocking on wood} I have no idea why. Guess I need to drop a french fry between the seats to keep the gremlins happy!

-Joe
 






I've read other posts talking about their 4Hi and 4Lo dash lights blinking several times to let them know there is a malfunction, however I've not seen my dash lights doing anything abnormal such as this. To make matters worse, The T-case clutch is still locking up in auto mode- again with no dash lights... Now that I know it was not a one-time hiccup. I need some more input. I've been reading alot about the driveshaft hall sensors, the vehicle speed sensors, and the GEM (Generic Control Module) that controls the T-case opperation. I've ruled out the shift moter as this only comes into play when switching to or from 4Lo. Also someone mentioned an electric solenoid in the dash... Are these things able to be bench tested and if working properly, ruled out?

-Averagejoe
 






Have you tried unplugging the transfer case yet? That's step 1 and will narrow it down to being either an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. It takes all of 5 minutes and you'll be able to determine where you need to focus your attention.

-Joe
 






Have you tried unplugging the transfer case yet? That's step 1 and will narrow it down to being either an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. It takes all of 5 minutes and you'll be able to determine where you need to focus your attention.

-Joe

No, I haven't unpluged it yet - But please explain... What condition am I looking for once it is unplugged? If unpluging it causes the t-case clutch to disengage, does that mean it is an electrical or sensor problem? If unpluging does not disengage the clutch, does that mean that there is a mechanical problem, and if so, where? I wish I could check it right now, but I'm at work. I won't be able to check til tonight.

-averagejoe
 






It's simple... the whole t-case is electronically controlled. If you unplug the case (the lights will blink, don't be alarmed) and drive it, and the 4wd is still locked-up, then it's a mechanical problem with the transfer case. You know that because you've isolated the electrical inputs to the system (by unplugging it). If you disconnect it and it stops acting as though it's bound-up, then you know it's an electrical problem, and those problems could be quite difficult to troubleshoot without a high-end diagnostic scanner. Either way, unplugging it and seeing if the problem persists is the quickest way to pin down which issue it is.

-Joe
 






Yes, unplugging the t-case should release the electronic clutch and you would basically have 2wd. No power going to the front at all. If you are getting power to the front still, then there is a mechanical issue. If it releases and you get 2wd when you unplug it, then something is wrong electronically and is constantly sending power to the clutch, thus keeping it locked in 4wd.

My shift motor would get sticky after a summer of non use, so I made it a point to shift it into 4 low every once in a while and drive forward and backwards in a straight line in my driveway, shifting in and out a few times. If you do this on pavement, don't turn at all or you will damage/break something.

Oh, and welcome fellow MN. I was born in Rochester. :thumbsup:
 






The motor has nothing to do with his problem... and yes, it's a good idea to exercise it periodically by engaging low range.

-Joe
 






The motor has nothing to do with his problem... and yes, it's a good idea to exercise it periodically by engaging low range.

-Joe

Yeah, I just thought I would throw that little tidbit in there. lol The salt around here can do a number on that thing.
 






It's simple... the whole t-case is electronically controlled. If you unplug the case (the lights will blink, don't be alarmed) and drive it, and the 4wd is still locked-up, then it's a mechanical problem with the transfer case. You know that because you've isolated the electrical inputs to the system (by unplugging it). If you disconnect it and it stops acting as though it's bound-up, then you know it's an electrical problem, and those problems could be quite difficult to troubleshoot without a high-end diagnostic scanner. Either way, unplugging it and seeing if the problem persists is the quickest way to pin down which issue it is.

-Joe

So I got the 4WD to stick in auto mode and then unplugged the t-case wiring harness and waallla!! 2 wheel drive!! I think thats a good thing considering the cost of rebuilding the 44-05 clutch. Now I have a trip to my mechanic scheduled for later this afternoon. Should I tell him to start with the inexpensive stuff (i.e. hall sensors or GCM)? What will his scanner tell him if there are no driveline codes stored?

-averagejoe
 






There won't be any codes stored. What that tells me is that the system is seeing a difference in wheel speeds and locking the transfer case until it sees the same wheel speeds again. It's most likely either the OSS sensor for the front driveshaft on the transfer case, or the rear axle speed sensor on the diff. The easiest (and cheapest) thing would be to try replacing the diff sensor first. It's about a $10 part and easy to swap.

If the tech has a good diagnostic monitor that can monitor the GEM PIDs, it should be able to tell him which sensor is dropping out and, therefore, why the system is (incorrectly) telling the t-case to lock.

IMHO, it's not likely the GEM itself is failing. It's more likely that the GEM, which is just a big dumb box like a computer, is getting bad information from one of the sensors. Garbage in = garbage out, just like a computer.

Let us know what you find!

-Joe
 






I just read your brown wire mod. Is it o.k. to leave the t-case wiring harness unplugged for highway driving while I drive it to the shop.

-averagejoe
 






Sure. You'll have some pretty lights to stare at on the dash, but you won't hurt anything mechanically-speaking. It'll just be a normal two wheel drive truck with a lot of extra rotating mass driven by the front wheels. No biggie.

-Joe
 






There won't be any codes stored. What that tells me is that the system is seeing a difference in wheel speeds and locking the transfer case until it sees the same wheel speeds again. It's most likely either the OSS sensor for the front driveshaft on the transfer case, or the rear axle speed sensor on the diff. The easiest (and cheapest) thing would be to try replacing the diff sensor first. It's about a $10 part and easy to swap.

If the tech has a good diagnostic monitor that can monitor the GEM PIDs, it should be able to tell him which sensor is dropping out and, therefore, why the system is (incorrectly) telling the t-case to lock.

IMHO, it's not likely the GEM itself is failing. It's more likely that the GEM, which is just a big dumb box like a computer, is getting bad information from one of the sensors. Garbage in = garbage out, just like a computer.

Let us know what you find!

-Joe

Dropped off the Ex at the shop, and wouldn't ya know, the auto 4WD worked flawlessly!! Niether one of us could duplicate the sticky 4WD- Go figure- Left it there anyway to run some diagnostics. Here what we know so far.


Hooked up the scanner to read the GEM. Went cruising about 55 mph.The vehicle speed sensor and both of the driveshaft sensors read 84 mph... At least all three match... Keep reading. Hooked up the scanner to read the PCM. Same test yielded 51 mph for the same three sensors- Again all three match. (BTW, he did double check that they were in the same units, not one in Kmh)
He claims there are no codes being generated, and as such does not think there are any faulty sensors and is reluctant to just "throw parts at it".

gijoecam, In your last post you mentioned something about the GEM PID's... Please explain. Thanks again for all your input

-averagejoe (baffled)
 






I suspect that's what he was looking at when he was looking at the speed sensors... The range that the GEM will see is 0-225 mph on the front, 0-255 on the rear. I'm not sure how the system interprets those numbers, so they may not be the actual vehicle speed. The PCM interprets the signal from the VSS by taking into account the final drive ratio and tire size before outputting the signal to the dash, so that could explain the discrepancy. AFAIK, the OSS sensors are strictly GEM inputs.

At any rate, it sounds like whatever shop you took it to has a great technician that knew right where to look. I would agree with him that it may not be worth throwing parts at it just yet. (In fact any mechanic that says that to my face automatically gets called 'reputable' and wins brownie points!)

As for the problem, it's quite possible that you simply had a bad connection at the transfer case causing one of the signals to drop out. When you unplugged it and reconnected it last night to test it, you may have temporarily fixed the problem. If it was a connection issue, moving the wiring and sliding the connector apart and back together could certainly have reseated the connection.

Unfortunately, you've discovered how difficult it is to track down intermittent electrical gremlins. If it was happening all the time, the source is easy to track down.

As for the PIDs, that stands for Parameter Identification Index. That's basically just a list of inputs and outputs that the GEM sees. By watching those, if you had a speed sensor dropping out, you'd see it as the front or rear OSS changing when it shouldn't, or if it was locked up, but the 4wd Electronic Clutch Output Status was set to 0%, you'd know something electrical was shorting to the brown wire and energizing the clutch... By seeing what the GEM is seeing and doing, you can get a better idea of why the system is doing what it's doing.

Make sense?

If it'll help, here's the diagnostic procedure from the service manual:
(I wish I could print out all the details, but they only open one at a time...)

Transfer Case

PINPOINT TEST A: THE VEHICLE DOES NOT OPERATE PROPERLY IN AUTO AND 4WD HIGH MODES
² A1: CHECK THE IGNITION STATES — MONITOR THE GEM PID IGN_GEM
² A2: RETRIEVE THE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
² A3: CHECK THE 4X4 HIGH LAMP INDICATOR — TRIGGER THE GEM ACTIVE COMMAND HIGH LAMP
² A4: CHECK THE 4X4 LOW LAMP INDICATOR — TRIGGER THE GEM ACTIVE COMMAND LOW LAMP
² A5: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE AUTO POSITION — MONITOR THE GEM PID 4WD_SW
² A6: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE 4WD HIGH POSITION — MONITOR THE GEM PID 4WD_SW
² A7: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE 4WD LOW POSITION — MONITOR THE GEM PID 4WD_SW
² A8: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE AUTO POSITION
² A9: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE 4WD HIGH POSITION
² A10: CHECK THE 4WD MODE SWITCH IN THE 4WD LOW POSITION
² A11: CHECK CIRCUIT 465 (W/LB) FOR OPEN
² A12: CHECK CIRCUIT 465 (W/LB) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
² A13: CHECK CIRCUIT 465 (W/LB) FOR SHORT TO POWER
² A14: CHECK CIRCUIT 359 (GY/R) FOR OPEN
² A15: CHECK CIRCUIT 359 (GY/R) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
² A16: CHECK CIRCUIT 359 (GY/R) FOR SHORT TO POWER
² A17: CHECK THE SOLID STATE CLUTCH RELAY
² A18: CHECK THE SOLID STATE CLUTCH RELAY SWITCH MODE
² A19: CHECK THE SOLID STATE CLUTCH RELAY COIL CIRCUIT — MONITOR THE GEM PID 4WDCLST
² A20: CHECK CIRCUIT 275 (Y) FOR SHORT TO POWER
² A21: CHECK CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK) FOR VOLTAGE
² A22: CHECK CIRCUIT 275 (Y) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
² A23: CHECK CIRCUIT 275 (Y) FOR OPEN
² A24: CHECK THE ELECTRIC CLUTCH — ENERGIZED
² A25: CHECK THE ELECTRIC CLUTCH — NOT ENERGIZED
² A26: CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE ELECTRIC CLUTCH — GEM ACTIVE COMMAND ACCY RLY ON
² A27: CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE ELECTRIC CLUTCH — GEM ACTIVE COMMAND ACCY RLY OFF
² A28: CHECK CIRCUIT 779 (BR) FOR SHORT TO POWER
² A29: CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE SOLID STATE CLUTCH RELAY — CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK)
² A30: CHECK CIRCUIT 779 (BR) FOR OPEN
² A31: CHECK THE FRONT AND REAR DRIVE SHAFT SPEED SENSORS
² A32: CHECK CIRCUIT 539 (PK/LB) FOR SHORT TO POWER
² A33: CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE FRONT AND REAR SHAFT SPEED SENSORS — CIRCUIT 774 (LG)
² A34: CHECK CIRCUIT 774 (LG) FOR OPEN
² A35: CHECK CIRCUIT 774 (LG) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
² A36: CHECK CIRCUIT 359 (GY/R) FOR OPEN
² A37: CHECK THE FRONT SHAFT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT 236 (BK/LG) FOR OPEN
² A38: CHECK THE REAR SHAFT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT 772 (LB) FOR OPEN
² A39: CHECK THE VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL — MONITOR THE GEM PID VSS_GEM
² A40: CHECK CIRCUIT 679 (GY/BK) FOR OPEN
² A41: CHECK THE THROTTLE POSITION INPUT—MONITOR THE GEM PID TPI
² A42: CHECK CIRCUIT 357 (Y/W) FOR OPEN AND SHORT TO GROUND
² A43: CHECK CIRCUIT 357 (Y/W) FOR SHORT TO POWER

Hope that helps!
 



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Dropped off the Ex at the shop, and wouldn't ya know, the auto 4WD worked flawlessly!! Niether one of us could duplicate the sticky 4WD- Go figure- Left it there anyway to run some diagnostics. Here what we know so far.


Hooked up the scanner to read the GEM. Went cruising about 55 mph.The vehicle speed sensor and both of the driveshaft sensors read 84 mph... At least all three match... Keep reading. Hooked up the scanner to read the PCM. Same test yielded 51 mph for the same three sensors- Again all three match. (BTW, he did double check that they were in the same units, not one in Kmh)
He claims there are no codes being generated, and as such does not think there are any faulty sensors and is reluctant to just "throw parts at it".

gijoecam, In your last post you mentioned something about the GEM PID's... Please explain. Thanks again for all your input

-averagejoe (baffled)

BAD NEWS...
Everything electrical checked out O.K. My mechanic spent almost 6.0 hours troubleshooting. He eventually did get the auto 4WD to stick and now he feels it is definitely a mechanical problem. His best opinion without yet splitting the t-case has something to do with the ball ramp engagement (or something like that) Or it is the clutch packs themselves being worn out. With 100,000 miles on it, maybe it's about time for a rebuild anyway. For now I'll clip the brown wire and live with 2WD until I get the rebuild done.

BTW, He does runs an excellent shop- Won't sell you anything he hasn't either inspected, tested or otherwise ruled out. He really digs deep and wasn't too bad on the wallet either. He adjusted my bill and I wasn't charged anywhere near the 6 hours of time he had into it. I feel like I should plug his shop, but I'm not sure if that is allowed on the forum?

-averagejoe
 






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