5R55E not shifting from 2-3

[Glacier991]

Use paper gaskets. The 2-3 shift flare is often due to loose solenoids, blown gaskets and loose valve body bolts. I'd start my focus there, it's cheap and easy to get to. I'm not a believer in most trans additives. Nothing wrong with a good Syn, except $.

 

[99EURO]

Similar problem

I am having a similar problem with my Explorer High Class (European Spec 1999) It starts shuddering on an incline in 4th and then the transmission OD light starts flashing. The dealership said the clutches are going out for 4th gear. The code reads 4th gear wrong ratio. Any clues Brian or Glacier or anyone? I bought this thing used from a dealer and they might fix it but I want it fixed right the first time.

 

[Brain]

99EURO, I think that is a 5R55E (5 speed auto), so fourth gear has the following clutches and bands applied in the OD shifter position (not P, N, D, 2, 1, but the solid D):
1) Overdrive one-way clutch is holding (as it is in every gear except 5th)
2) Reverse/High clutch pack is engaged (as it is in 4th, 5th, and R)
3) Forward clutch pack is engaged (as it is in every gear except R)

What I'm trying to say is that there isn't one set of clutches that work ONLY in fourth gear, so I would expect that you could make it shudder in another gear as well. #1 usually won't cause a shudder, but a failing #2 or #3 could/would cause a shudder. If it shudders in 5th gear and maybe reverse as well, you could narrow it down to #2, where if you could get it to shudder in the other gears you could narrow it down to the forward clutch pack.

The blinking OD light is a signal that there is a trouble code set (which the dealer has read), and 'incorrect' or 'wrong ratio' means that something is slipping that shouldn't be (wrong output-to-input ratio). There are a couple of things that could cause that to happen: either the clutches aren't being given enough pressure to hold the clutch plates together (possibly a control system problem, maybe a failing/plugged solenoid valve), or the clutch plates in at least one of the two clutch packs mentioned (#2 or #3) are out of friction material and are rubbing metal-to-metal (which has less friction, and therefore holding force).

A dealership will usually want to replace the unit with a remanufactured or new unit because they warantee their work, and replacing a $100 valve might solve the problem for now, but since there is shuddering and slipping, they can't take the chance that enough damage has been done to the clutch packs for them to fail before the warantee period is up (and ends up back on their doorstep on their dime).

How many miles are on it?

 

[Gcrop]

My OD OFF light was blinking while I was driving it today at two seperate times. It didn't come on though until about 5-10 minutes of driving. Then when I drove it home tonight it didn't blink at all.

Any ideas on that?

Geoff

 

[99EURO]

Brian

It has 78,000 Kilometers on it at this time. I am trying to get them to replace the transmission but I think they are going to rebuild it. Either way here in Germany it will be covered under warranty for parts and labor as well as the purchase warranty on the used vehicle. They will keep it as long as it takes to fix it the right way. I bought the vehicle from Audi here and they are covering everything but need it to be fixed at Ford. The check engine problem was recently repaired and they paid the bill except for the timing tensioners which I paid for only the parts. I will print out some of your articles to help them with the problem. Maybe they will listen because Germans are very hard headed. LOL! Once again I am very thankful for your advice and help in this matter. My wife and I are going insane with these problems on the vehicle.

 

[Brain]

99EURO,

I might have been mistaken on which transmission you have in your High Class so don't take my word as gospel. When you wrote 'tensioners' I figured out that you are probably talking about the DOHC 5.0 liter engine....I don't think that is a 5R55E. Sorry.

 

[Brain]

The 5 liter V-8 would have a 4R70W transmission and not a 5R55E like I was thinking. For some reason I thought it was the 4 liter V-6 model, which would have the 5R55E in '99.

 

[TPLYNCH]

Brain, you were right with the 5R55E info. 99Euro has the SOHC engine with the bad o-rings/camshaft tensionser/timing chain cassettes. He had the 00M12 and 01M01 work done.

 

[Glacier991]

So guys is it a 4R70W ? (happen to have the factory manual and can look up his symptoms for him)

 

[TPLYNCH]

5r55e

 

[Gcrop]

Would the clogged EPC solenoid cause any other symptoms with the transmission? It seems very sluggish and not much pick up as if the tranny isn't catching all the way. Sometimes my O/D OFF light flashes and sometimes it doesn't. I am going to open it up this weekend and just picked up the filter and gasket from AZ, any other things I should do to it while I have it open? Tq settings for the bolts I will be encountering?

Thanks,
Geoff

 

[Brain]

Geoff, I would definitely pull the codes before you open her up so that if there is something you can do from the bottom, you don't have to take the tranny fluid bath twice. Also consider putting in a drain plug in the pan (makes it easier from here on out and is less than $5).

 

[Gcrop]

Geoff, I would definitely pull the codes before you open her up so that if there is something you can do from the bottom, you don't have to take the tranny fluid bath twice. Also consider putting in a drain plug in the pan (makes it easier from here on out and is less than $5).

When you say pull the codes, I assume you don't mean with an OBDII scanner but with some other type of scanner? I have been doing a lot of archiving and there just seems like there is so much to check. I was just going to replace the filter, gasket and clean out the solenoid. If that doesn't fix it, I might be forced to take it somewhere, for time reasons (just bought this darned thing too :fire: ). How would I go about putting a drain plug in/creating the hole to put a drain plug in?

Thanks a lot Brain, I am kind of tentative on this b/c transmissions is something I have never touched.

Geoff

 

[Glacier991]

The usual add on plug requires you drill a 1/2 inch hole in the pan...The valve body bolts are just a good (not hefty) hand tight put the socket on the end of a hand driver (like a screwdriver with a square drive on the end) and a frim tight is enough. Don't use a rachet (unless it's on a torque wrench.) It just isn't THAT tight.

 

[Gcrop]

The usual add on plug requires you drill a 1/2 inch hole in the pan...The valve body bolts are just a good (not hefty) hand tight put the socket on the end of a hand driver (like a screwdriver with a square drive on the end) and a frim tight is enough. Don't use a rachet (unless it's on a torque wrench.) It just isn't THAT tight.

Is the add-on plug an AZ, NAPA, etc. product?
What kind of Synthetic should I use (weight)?
[stupidquestion]Where do I fill it up when I am done?[/stupidquestion]

Geoff

 

[Glacier991]

Go to Autozone.... in their oil section is a display of replacment plugs.... on that board is an add on plug (costs $5) Brain and I have both posted pics of it. SO, there's your plug.

Transmission fluid does not come in weights. You are a Mercon V user.

By dropping the pan you are only losing less than half the fluid in the trannie (the remainder stays in the TC and other places....) I'd seriously consider staying with Mercon V "dino" (meaning dinosaur, e.g. non synthetic) unless you are going to run the trannie and refill as you go and get ALL the old fluid out... (several good posts on how to do this too).

Keep asking your Q's ....lots of gearheads on here willing to help... get comfortable before you start and know that once you do you can come back for needed help. THIS is a GREAT board for getting knowledgeable help.

 

[Gcrop]

Go to Autozone.... in their oil section is a display of replacment plugs.... on that board is an add on plug (costs $5) Brain and I have both posted pics of it. SO, there's your plug.

Transmission fluid does not come in weights. You are a Mercon V user.

By dropping the pan you are only losing less than half the fluid in the trannie (the remainder stays in the TC and other places....) I'd seriously consider staying with Mercon V "dino" (meaning dinosaur, e.g. non synthetic) unless you are going to run the trannie and refill as you go and get ALL the old fluid out... (several good posts on how to do this too).

Keep asking your Q's ....lots of gearheads on here willing to help... get comfortable before you start and know that once you do you can come back for needed help. THIS is a GREAT board for getting knowledgeable help.

I am glad you told me about only losing half the fluid and to stay with non-Synthetic. The add-on plug does make me a little nervous about drilling into my drain pan but I have done worse . Is the filter right there when I drop the pan? Looks like I need to do some more archiving and searching to find some pictures and additional useful threads.

Thanks again...this is my DD and can't afford to have it down too long ( a weekend).

You are correct on the usefulness of the site. Glad I was refered here.

EDIT: How different is the "diary" thread from my transmission? What are the main differences I mean? Now I read http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121883&highlight=diary and you say in there that the screen solenoid was done away with in the 5R55E's....is that right?

Geoff

 

[indiana mark]

Hello, all.
Great forum you have here. Glad I found it! I also suffer from the shift problem from 2nd to 3rd; rpm’s rev up and then shifts. (Just started, all others are fine) Just want to make sure I have this correct on a 2000 sport, 5R55E? And no need to pull the valve body to do it? Just pull the solenoid, test the ohms if ok, clean with break clean, blow out and let dry, replace fluid and see where that gets me?
Thanks for any help,
INDY

 

[Gcrop]

OK Chris, reading through your Diary Pt.1, I only was where you disconnected the wires going to the solenoids. You didn't show how you got them out.

Is it as simple as taking the bolt out of that bracket and then sliding out the solenoid or do I just slide out the solenoid?

Before I even touch anything (after dropping the pan) can I just hose the inside of the tranny with the Brake Cleaner or don't do that?

Should I only pull the one out with the screen or pull all of them out and clean it all with Brake Cleaner?

The more I read the more Q's I have.

Geoff

 

[Brain]

Check out post #66 for a picture of the pan and drain plug.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117793&page=4&pp=20

That thread is where I compare the innards of the A4LD and 5R55E (old and new). It is meant to be at least partially instructive.

Don't just shoot brake cleaner up into the transmission - it is used to quickly clean parts that are out (it evaporates really quick and comes in a can - therefore it is quite handy). It is a degreaser (strips away oil/grease/grime) and will not work well with the oil (tranny fluid).

Here's a picture of what you will see when you remove the pan and the filter (the filter is held on with a single bolt) - ignore the red mark - it was to show where the regulator valve resides.

On the top left (driver's front), you can see that a bracket hold the solenoid valves in place. Three bolts and then slide to the rear (the vary back of it is hooked behind the back solenoid - you will be able to see it without the pan in place).

Three bolts removes the bracket holding the passenger's side as well (two valves on the bottom.

The electrical connectors just pull off (wiggle). Here's a pic (driver's side):

passenger's side:

If you are already in this state of disassembly, it might not hurt to clean them all (and add some magnets in the pan to catch steel debris if there is any).

BTW, the drain plug bolt doesn't require that you use sealant, but if you do, let it set up for 24 hours like the tube says.