6" lift that won't see the dirt

[HawaiiFiveOh]

So, I'm in the process of replacing all the bushings on the front end of my truck along with new ball joints, bearings and seals. And looking at the front end of the truck almost completely torn apart I got to thinking. I know this might sound completely crazy to some of the die hard offroaders but... I'm looking for the most cost effective way to do a 6 inch suspension lift on my 92 4wd explorer that will never get off the pavement.
I've done the searches and read my share of posts and have came up with a SOA in the rear, and the 4" drop brackets for the front end along with some 6" coils.
Good/bad idea? Does it sound like maybe the right track or way out in left field?

 

[yostyexplorer94]

You could do that, or you could do a rough country 4" suspension and just add the f150 coil seats under the springs. That would give you about 6" and you wouldn't have to buy other coils. The last I checked the rough country 4" inch suspension lift was about $440. You could also check out a 3 inch body lift and the f-150 coil seats for about 5 inches of lift, which is what I have. I cleared 33x10.50's on stock rims with no rubbing. I have 35" super swampers on now and to get them to fit I cut fenders. Search on any of the options that I wrote in here and you will be amazed at the information that is available to you. Good luck

 

[Anime]

Most cost effective would be a 5.5" Superlift. SOA the rear, use the drop brackets and extended arms, good to go. Check out the for sale part of the forum for members who are parting out or selling their old lifts. Chances are good you can get something quality for cheap.

Keep in mind the real cost of a lifted vehicle has to do with the large tires, wheels with different width/offset, and especially lower gears.

If you can't scrape up the dough for big tires and new gears front and rear, a lift that big will wind up looking pretty silly. You might be better off doing a shackle/spacer lift for $100, getting an alignment, and running 31" tires.

 

[HawaiiFiveOh]

Most cost effective would be a 5.5" Superlift. SOA the rear, use the drop brackets and extended arms, good to go. Check out the for sale part of the forum for members who are parting out or selling their old lifts. Chances are good you can get something quality for cheap.

Keep in mind the real cost of a lifted vehicle has to do with the large tires, wheels with different width/offset, and especially lower gears.

If you can't scrape up the dough for big tires and new gears front and rear, a lift that big will wind up looking pretty silly. You might be better off doing a shackle/spacer lift for $100, getting an alignment, and running 31" tires.

I guess I should have been more specific when i said cost effective. I'm not looking for the cheapest way so to speak, but I don't need to spend the money on something that is going to have tons of articulation, travel etc. Just something that will get the truck sitting higher that will do fine on the pavement. But I do want to try and stay away from a body lift as well. I haven't looked into the price of gears yet but understand they will be necessary with larger tires. It already has the crager soft 8's with 31s right now.
Thanks for the input though, its appreciated. Now I need to decide if the 5.0 out of my old mustang thats taking up space in my garage is worth the hassle of stuffing in this thing.

 

[4x4junkie]

For something that's not going to see much dirt, pretty much any suspension lift will do the job. About the only thing you'd still want to stay away from is a lift that uses the drop plate extension, just because even hitting a good drainage dip at an intersection could still send the front diff into the bracket, possibly damaging it.
Skyjacker's Class 1 kit would be a great one to go with.

Additionally, get the longer Skyjacker #FA600 drop pitman arm for your steering, regardless of what brand lift you get. This will vastly improve the angle of your linkage with the axle vs. with the too-short drop arm that's provided with virtually all lifts, giving you much better onroad manners, and far less wear & tear on your tires.

Gears will most certainly be needed with bigger tires. I would get the gears in first, and then decide whether you still want more power. The 4.0L is capable of moving the Ex pretty darn good if it's geared correctly (better than a V8 would running with stock gears).