90 F250-Why can't I seperate my 300 I6/M5R2?

[RangerX]

I have to drop my trans to change the slave , but I'm having trouble.

This is on my 1990 F250 2WD with the 300ci 6cyl, and the Mazda 5 speed trans.

I have everything disconnected: 6 engine to trans bolts out, starter out, crossmember off, shifter off, wiring unplugged, clutch line discoed, driveshaft off, and the trans is supported by a transmission jack. I can't get the trans to slide back the two inches to seperate from the engine, so I can lower it.

Am I missing something? I don't recall having a problem when I dropped the Mazda trans in my Ranger three years ago.
I tried tugging it while it was tilted slightly down, slightly up, and at level (mounted height). I tried prying carefully with a small bar, right near the locating pins, but I'm afraid to crack the housing.

Any tips?

 

[SVO]

Input shaft stuck/frozen/siezed on the pilot bearing??

Corrosion on the guide pins?









Jeff - :navajo:

 

[Stic-o]

Maybe try a come along on the back of the trans too pull?

 

[Exploderpilot]

wiggle her side to side a little. then up and down. that thing has probably been on there a while.....

 

[tdavis]

Get a dead blow, and go to town on it.. it will separate..

 

[RangerX]

I tried alot of wiggling side to side, and up and down. The guidepins look clean, at least the 1/4" I can see.
I suspected the pilot bearing as at least part of my original problem for shifting issues, but... When I did my Ranger trans, the pilot bearing was just crumbs, and the trans slid out.
I could try to rig up a comealong under there...
Tom, what should I hit with the deadblow, the bellhousing???

Thanks, guys.

 

[tdavis]

Tom, what should I hit with the deadblow, the bellhousing???

Yes.

Try to find a spot to hit that will move the transmission away from the engine. You probably have a scored or rusted input shaft with the pilot bearing holding it back.

I'll bet it will "pop" and then come free.

Another trick to try - attach a strap/comealong, and pull to the rear of the vehicle. Once that gets tight, hit with the dead blow towards the rear of the vehicle.

Another tool to consider - brass drifts. whatever you do, DO NOT use a regular metal hammer on it.

 

[Stic-o]

Also maybe you can get some wd-40 or someing in there through the service window on the bell housing.

 

[tdavis]

Also maybe you can get some wd-40 or someing in there through the service window on the bell housing.

If you do that, you need to clean the flywheel surface with brake cleaner really, really good before you do anthing. Any type of fluid on the flywheel surface is bad for the clutch disk.

I thought of another thing that might be holding it on - the pressure plate may have grabbed the throwout bearing.

 

[dkchrist]

good luck you dont have a clearance issue? Something contacting and hanging it up

 

[RangerX]

Well I'm home from work, so time to give it another try.
I'll break out the comealong and the .

 

[Stic-o]

Bill you should make a Tiki Hammer

 

[RangerX]

As a smilie, or a real tiki?

Well, the comealong did the job.

Nothing looks visibly broken or bad, to my eye. Except I don't know why everything is coated in a brick red color? Any ideas what that is? (see pics)

The plan was, to replace the slave, because I had major problems getting it in gear. I may replace the clutch too, we'll see what it looks like tomorrow. If there's a decent amount of meat on it, and nothing else is wrong with it, I'll probably leave it alone.

Thoughts?

 

[tdavis]

The brick red is probably the remains of the clutch material.

It's open, replace the clutch and pilot bearing, and have the flywheel re-surfaced. Nothing like buttoning it back up to have something else fail..