93 Explr leaking brake fluid

[ggaarryy]

93 Explorer eddie bauer with 160k. Stepped on the brakes today and they went all the way to the floor and huge puddle appeared under the rear (i think i am calling correctly) transaxle.

There is a box on top of the transaxle from which the hoses for the two rear wheel brake lines go -- it appears the leak is coming from there (specifically the fitting to the rear passenger wheel it would seem). Questions:

1) any suggestions on the procedure for removing/replacing the lines? Do I need to replace the box on top of the transaxle too?

2) when I checked the fluid a couple of weeks ago, it was dirty brown. Assuming that is contamination -- what should i do to restore the rest of the system once i fix the back brake hoses? Does the contamination mean I will need to replace the master cyliner as well?

3) there is reference to a special tool for brake work -- is this a 'generic' special tool i can pick up at autozone or something unique to ford explorers i need to get from a dealer?

4) would no rear brakes make my brake lights stop functioning (which is the case)?

5) a somewhat related brake issue -- i've noticed that hitting the breaks does NOT disengage cruise control -- any relationship?

With the help of this great board, I was able to replace the fuel pump a month ago so I hope I can get some more advice here. Thanks in advance.



3)

 

[Firefightermike]

the box is your porpotnal valve...that what makes sure your brakes hit evenly

 

[Positive Vibes]

the box is your porpotnal valve...that what makes sure your brakes hit evenly

You sure thats the proportioning valve??? I think its just a connection for the brake lines to branch off. At least on my '94 I'm sure thats what it is.

Gary, get someone to press the brakes while you look under to see exactly which connector is leaking. I'd wear safety glasses.

1. Removin the lines is basic just get a cup to catch the excess, the harder part will be bleeding the brakes (getting the air out of the lines). There is a little kit for around $10 that allows you to bleed your brakes by yourself. Also try a search and read up a little on it.

2. You can drain most your brake fluid yourself and just fill it up with new or you can take it in have a shop do a fluid change.

3. Not sure what special tool you need. I believe the brake lines are 7/16.

4. Brake lights are electrical, I dont see what having no brakes would stop your brake lights from working? Not 100% on this one.

5. No clue on the cruise control. I don't use mine. Found the CEL likes to come after in use.

Anyone else want to chime in?

 

[Robb]

It isn't your proportioning valve, it is the rear distribution block. Check on yours, but on mine, the hose from the frame, and the hose to the driver's side brake are made into the distribution block (the passenger side using a thread fitting). You should be able to pick up a new rear brake hose at an auto parts store, just make sure it has everything connected to it that you need.

If it is the passenger side line that is leaking, try tightening it up a grunt or two. But if it is bad enough, it has probably developed a hole, and that hard line will need to be replaced. For that, you will probably need to pick up a universal piece of brakes line, the proper size, length, and fittings (from somewhere near NAPA), and bend it yourself.

 

[ggaarryy]

thanks for the input so far -- the bolts into the 'distrubtion block' if that's what was, were frozen and basically the brake hoses just twisted off they were that corroded. LOL was no fluid to even drain out i guess it ruptured so badly. So I guess I am looking at replacing the back two hoses.

I'll be back i'm sure, as this is just the first step.

Still wondering if i should worry at this point that the contaminated fluid as ruined the seals and the master cylinder as i read someplace or should i just take it a step at a time?

thanks very much.

 

[romar]

I'd take it one step at a time ggaarryy. Better yet, when you remove the hoses from the wheel cyls. see if you can crack the bleeder screws. If you can if not you may end up replacing the wheel cylinders as well. After you make your repairs most of the old brake fluid will be replaced. I'd keep bleeding the brakes(all four of 'em) until the fluid comes out clean. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and because of that it should be flushed out every few years. I've done mine twice in the eight years I've had the truck. For some reason I've noticed that brake fluid on Ford vehicles tends to get black real quick.

 

[marragtop]

I suggest soaking all connections and bolts with PB or WD40 for a day or two. If you don't do this, I suspect you will end up replacing both wheel cylinders, both metal lines, and the flex line. To replace the wheel cylinders, you will need a spring removal tool back off the shoes.

Mike

 

[ggaarryy]

okay thanks so far for help.

Stage 2: I have replaced the rear brake lines and am ready to bleed the system.

BUT WAIT!!!!! further reading tells me i may have to use a special tool(s) on my 93 4wd explorer.....grrrrrrrr. From what I gather from the other threads, it seems the consensus is that this special tool is necessary if air has gotten into the ABS HCU and this is usually due to the cylinder running dry.

To go back to original post, the rupture in the rear brake hose drained the brake fluid resevoir dry. Can I assume from this that I DO have air in the ABS HCU and will need the brakes professionally bled or buy the 75-100 dollar tool?

Thanks much.

 

[RiverRat]

Not sure if anyone answered the brake light speed control question. The brake light and speed control use a switch to turn on/off. It is on the brake pedal. Most likely either your switch or the wires right by it are broken. Get it fixed as not having brake lights is dangerous.

I'm pretty sure you can bleed the brakes yourself.