94 Eats inside of tires. What could be worn out?

[CTroxtell]

Well after about 3 years of rotating my tires my tires are almost to the point of no help. The tires have been wearing badly on the inside edges. What all could be affecting the alignment? I've replaced one of the ball joints as it was sloppy, replaced both radius arm bushings with Moog bushings. I have an issue with a "clunk" sound when stopping but it only happens after I come to the stop. I'm wondering what has play in it, I use 4x4 Low for the gearing ratio as it makes it easier to get into my garage, in doing so if you have to get on the brakes it feels like the transfer case is moving or rubbing. Any thoughts?
EDIT: I'm honestly wondering how many more miles my x will hold up for, it don't like to shift out of 1st at times and have been told that it is the governor in the transmission, its been doing this for over a year. I've got 304k on her and pump about $60 a week of gas. Don't think I burn no oil, I think it just leaks out the oil pan and rear main seal. Leaks coolant I think around the timing belt cover I think it is.

 

[swshawaii]

Alignment checked with readings? Negative camber or toe out? For your "clunk" when stopping, check the slip yoke.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106307

 

[arco777]

Well after about 3 years of rotating my tires my tires are almost to the point of no help. The tires have been wearing badly on the inside edges. What all could be affecting the alignment? I've replaced one of the ball joints as it was sloppy, replaced both radius arm bushings with Moog bushings. I have an issue with a "clunk" sound when stopping but it only happens after I come to the stop. I'm wondering what has play in it, I use 4x4 Low for the gearing ratio as it makes it easier to get into my garage, in doing so if you have to get on the brakes it feels like the transfer case is moving or rubbing. Any thoughts?
EDIT: I'm honestly wondering how many more miles my x will hold up for, it don't like to shift out of 1st at times and have been told that it is the governor in the transmission, its been doing this for over a year. I've got 304k on her and pump about $60 a week of gas. Don't think I burn no oil, I think it just leaks out the oil pan and rear main seal. Leaks coolant I think around the timing belt cover I think it is.

When the tires are wearing on the inside, it's caused by spring sag. The front springs sag over time and the camber changes. You can get an alignment which will adjust the camber eccentrics, but it may be too far off for the stock eccentrics and the shop may have to change them.

A better fix in my opinion is to replace the front springs and get an alignment. Moog HD replacement springs are cheap (think I paid $70 a pair) and after an alignment you'll notice better handling and it'll fix the tire wear.

As for the shifting out of first, the two things that affect 1-2 shift are the vacuum modulator and the governor. If it doesn't want to shift when cold but shifts fine when warmed up, it's usually the governor. The governor can be removed, cleaned and replaced without removing the transmission; on 4WD models you do need to remove the transfer case but it's not too hard to do by yourself.

 

[FR-425]

We got a 300,000 club-er!

 

[CTroxtell]

When the tires are wearing on the inside, it's caused by spring sag. The front springs sag over time and the camber changes. You can get an alignment which will adjust the camber eccentrics, but it may be too far off for the stock eccentrics and the shop may have to change them.

A better fix in my opinion is to replace the front springs and get an alignment. Moog HD replacement springs are cheap (think I paid $70 a pair) and after an alignment you'll notice better handling and it'll fix the tire wear.

As for the shifting out of first, the two things that affect 1-2 shift are the vacuum modulator and the governor. If it doesn't want to shift when cold but shifts fine when warmed up, it's usually the governor. The governor can be removed, cleaned and replaced without removing the transmission; on 4WD models you do need to remove the transfer case but it's not too hard to do by yourself.

Another thing I've noted is the front left shock mount on the frame don't seem to hold the shock, when I started driving it I think there was no nut on the bolt so I bought a replacement and put it in but it now seems as if its loose and as worn the bolt hole. I was concerned as to if there was any bushings that would allows the TTB or axle to move in a direction it shouldn't. Yes its the governor then as it only acts up when its cold.

 

[CTroxtell]

We got a 300,000 club-er!

What's usually the mileage these trucks will run? I'm kind of at the point of wondering if I should buy a backup car or buy new tires after trying to fix the alignment. We've had it since it had about 220k I think. I've replaced the evaporator, radiator, battery, radius arm bushings, fuel pump, egr valve, and the a/c compressor. I've attempted to fix the auto locking hubs but they still refuse to work, I guess they are broken as the spindles will spin but the hub will not lock even though I've cleaned all the gunk out of them.

 

[arco777]

The shock mounts on the radius arms occasionally can break off. I assume you are talking about the upper shock mount though. The top of the shock should have bushings sandwiching the shock mount. One on top and one on bottom, with a nut and washer to squish it down. The upper shock mount is replaceable if necessary.

The TTB bushings to mainly pay attention to are the radius arm bushings. Those are the most crucial ones. The axle pivot bushings are worth looking at too, by your mileage.

There's no reason this truck can't do 500,000 miles with proper maintenance. Then engines are certainly capable of it. The transmissions have shorter lives, usually 160K miles from the factory in stock form to a max of 220K. Rebuilds can extend their lifespan but quality of rebuild is very important for longevity. A bad rebuild may only last 20K miles, while a good one with updates, shift correction kit, and an improved fluid cooling system should in theory lengthen the trans lifespan over stock.

The frame and body are good for a long time. For reference, the Crown Vic is often considered a good standard for longevity. Transmissions wear similiarly to the Explorer and the 4.6 Modular motors have a very good lifespan though the overhead cam timing chains are a weaker spot than the 4.0 OHV's shorter chain. On the Crown Vic, usually around 500K miles the body panels and other parts start fatigue cracking because the metal is simply flexed out. Your mileage may vary due to differences in the Explorer's design and the way they are used.

 

[FR-425]

Well it depends mostly on the owner,

You have obviously been taking care of yours!

If your just now getting some "morning sickness" = sticking governor in the trans.

And the motor is not rattle banging, you've got quite a ways to go with your Ex.

 

[arco777]

What's usually the mileage these trucks will run? I'm kind of at the point of wondering if I should buy a backup car or buy new tires after trying to fix the alignment. We've had it since it had about 220k I think. I've replaced the evaporator, radiator, battery, radius arm bushings, fuel pump, egr valve, and the a/c compressor. I've attempted to fix the auto locking hubs but they still refuse to work, I guess they are broken as the spindles will spin but the hub will not lock even though I've cleaned all the gunk out of them.

Whether you want a backup car or not depends on how you use yours and your budget. My household uses the Explorers as primary vehicles and while regular maintenance is required due to their age, they are very reliable. For short trips I rarely have issues, but if you are expecting to take long distance road trips you might want to consider a newer vehicle as primary.

For the auto hubs, if you use your 4WD at all, just install manual hubs. There are several options for new ones and you can also find used factory manual hubs (made for Ford by WARN) for less money than buying new. Keep in mind the hardware for attaching them changes but several manufacturers offer conversion hardware kits or there are junkyard parts.

 

[CTroxtell]

The shock mount I've talking about is the bottom of this http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/686/dscn0431bc0.jpg Where it connects into the radius arm it has wore a hole slightly so the tapered end of the shock bolt isn't snug in there now. Oh yes and I've had to replace the lower intake manifold gasket I think it was a few years back when it blew my coolant all out. She's got plenty of rust but has been a good truck.

 

[arco777]

The lower mount can always be welded into place like a fixed stud, like stock.

 

[CTroxtell]

I've been worried about the tranny for over a year though, it had some issues. The shifting goes ballistic at times and jumps out of over drive gear and into the next one revving the engine way up at highway speeds. It hasn't done this in quite a few months though, not sure if that is a shift module going out or what. The improved shift kit..is that the thing in the bottom of the transmission pan?

 

[arco777]

If you remove the trans pan you'll see the valve body bolted up to the transmission using around a dozen or more bolts. This is the hydraulic brain of the transmission. Not a whole lot on the A4LD trans is computer controlled, there are only two solenoids. Most of it is mechanical logic. As a result, the valve body controls most of what the trans does.

The valve body can be removed easily once you drop the pan and you can install a shift correction kit, commonly known as a shift kit. Transgo and Superior make a couple good ones. I used the Transgo A4LD Sk-Jr kit in both my A4LDs and was very happy with the results. The kit includes new check pucks, new recalibrated springs, and improved design parts. It will require you to disassemble the valve body which involves a lot of small parts but it is not hard to do and the instructions are excellent. There is an "A4LD Valve Body Rebuild Diary" on this forum that shows you how it all goes.

Installing the shift correction kit and properly reinstalling the valve body takes some time but none of it is difficult if you are careful not to lose any of the parts, and follow the directions. The only special tool required is a torque wrench capable of an inch/pound setting range. Not like one you'd use for lug nuts! You will want to do the valve body work on a towel at a workbench or table and you'll need needlenose pliers, bits of wire to fish things out, and you'll probably want some CA glue and a sacrificial screw to get the bore plugs out.

Again, none of the work is difficult. I did both of my A4LD's valve bodies by myself and it worked out great, despite having no prior knowledge of transmission work. It takes some time but if you do it right and don't cut corners your trans will shift so much smoother, last longer, and run cooler. There are even options for customizing the shift feel. The kit fixes a lot of the common issues like shift flares and sticky valves, and while you're in there is a good time to clean all the old gunk out of the valve body. You can also install upgraded Sonnax parts at the same time if desired; for example they offer improved design parts to replace worn out ones. Rebuilding the valve bodies was the best mod I ever did to my Explorers.

The correction kits are inexpensive and most of the upgrades are too. You will need a new set of separator plate gaskets and expect to spend some time with a razor blade removing the old gaskets. Q-tips are a must. I got all my parts from Transmission Parts USA and it didn't cost much at all; I spent more on trans fluid than on the upgrades.

 

[CTroxtell]

Yeah, those are the shift kits I had saw a few years back when looking up the a4ld transmission. I wish I would of bought one and installed it last time I had pulled the pan and changed the fluid, also wish I'd of installed a drain plug on it. What are your thoughts on changing the seals? Not sure how much of a pain it is to pull the transmission out of a 4x4 x and replace seals or if it is even worth it, kind of on the fence of do I just let it leak or do I dive into it and replace things as they don't cost much just time involved if you diy. I've pulled the transmission out of my bmw before to replace the clutch, seals and throw out bearing, that was fun as I cussed at it.

 

[cgbier]

If your just now getting some "morning sickness"

Does that mean he'll find a small explorer in his garage in a couple of months?
So that is where new cars come from...

(SCNR)

 

[arco777]

Yeah, those are the shift kits I had saw a few years back when looking up the a4ld transmission. I wish I would of bought one and installed it last time I had pulled the pan and changed the fluid, also wish I'd of installed a drain plug on it. What are your thoughts on changing the seals? Not sure how much of a pain it is to pull the transmission out of a 4x4 x and replace seals or if it is even worth it, kind of on the fence of do I just let it leak or do I dive into it and replace things as they don't cost much just time involved if you diy. I've pulled the transmission out of my bmw before to replace the clutch, seals and throw out bearing, that was fun as I cussed at it.

Where's it leaking from?

Personally I don't mind just adding fluid, for slow leaks. The only seal you can easily do anything about is the pan seal. It is up to you if you want to dive in and pull the whole trans. Also keep in mind if you aren't careful you can destroy the front pump and seal.

Drain plug in the pan is a good idea. I have EZ Oil Drain Plugs installed in both my trans pans as opposed to a regular plug. One benefit is if I overfill the trans I can just drain some out without dumping it all, and it drains in a controlled stream instead of dumping it all at once.

 

[CTroxtell]

The oil pan leaks, the transmission pan I think lightly leaks(my fault for over tightening the bolts I think), the rear main seal is the worst leak I believe though. Its bad enough that if I drive it I won't park it in someones driveway because it'll have an oil spot on their drive. The coolant I think is leaking out around the timing belt cover, I did a pressure test and I think its supposed to hold 15lbs of pressure and anything around 10 I think it was and it'd leak. My poor old x is just full of leaks.

 

[arco777]

It happens. Guess you could do like the Humvees I see daily that have drip pans attached to them with chains. Everywhere they go they put a drip pan down... it's just a given that leaks are going to happen.