'94 exp got CM 332/337 codes - what to do next? | Ford Explorer Forums

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'94 exp got CM 332/337 codes - what to do next?

Joined
April 18, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Redding, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Sport 2WD 6Cyl 4.0L
KOEO: 111 111 (system pass)
CM: 332 337 [this varies, the first time I did this test...got both. then I
cleared CM...drove around, got the CEL error as expected
and it only came up as 332]
KOER: 111 111 (system pass)

hey so here's some backstory....

In the process of trying to get my car to pass a California smog test (shiver...), recently replaced some spark plugs and found out that one of the DPFE sensor "vaccuum" inputs (the frontmost) was disconnected from the EGR Tube, I think it's called. Also, both DPFE tubes looked fragile/brittle, so we replaced them with standard rubber vaccuum tubes...looked like their diameter was a bit smaller than what was on there, but they fit well. Car started up fine and actually sounded better now that these were connected. Next we sprayed down the engine with purple power degreaser and hosed the engine down with a hose on the side of the house....not high-pressure. A few days later, started drivin' the car around and like clockword, each time I take it for a spin, between 3-5 minutes of driving and the CEL comes on. The car idles and runs fine/normal at all times regardless of the CEL light.

so yeah, 332 and 337 are definitely part of the EGR system...and it sounds like from what I'm reading, the DPFE is usually the culprit. I'm not sure what to do at this point or how to test.....
Process of elimination seems to be super easy here...any ideas what could have happened? Car was completely fine, all we did was replace the vaccum tubes with brand new ones (albeit I'm pretty sure they're not the "high temp silicone rubber" ones people are saying should be used! They definitely looked like a tighter fit than the other tube(s) as well. Would this different tubing be a problem?), then we washed out the engine compartment.

I've heard people say...water vapor kills this sensor, that it's really sensitive to vapor. As far as I know this sensor is quite old....I've never replaced it or had it replaced in the 4 years that I've had it, to my knowledge. Wondering if maybe somehow water got into these vaccum tubes when we rinsed the degreaser off the engine....but my roommate was baffled because he said we weren't using a high pressure water stream that would really force it's way into sensitive parts. He'd done it many times before on his own car with no problems.

Anyhow, I should probably go check the manuals for this...which ones are specific to this system for diagnosis. Also, where's a good place to look for those specific high-pressure silicone rubber tubes?

Thanks!
Jonathan
 



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thanks for the reply, tbars, I'll check that one.

two more questions:

1) would resetting Keep Alive memory and all the correction factors by pulling the negative battery terminal off for 10 minutes (and then redriving to get it to relearn) do anything?
I wonder because my car was obviously used to driving without the reference hose on the sensor, and SOMEHOW it was never throwing a CEL code! Then all of a sudden I put the hose back in place and replace the other one...maybe that threw it out of wack.

2) wonder if hooking up the hoses backwards would cause an error code...I didn't do the hose replacement, my roommate did and he wasn't exactly sure. I've been trying to find out which hoses are supposed to go where, EXACTLY.

I'm gonna try the battery reset first...then try switching the hoses.

I'm really baffled now that the system didn't throw any errors with the reference hose disconnected from the sensor...I have no idea how long it was like that.
 






HAH! oh my gosh, embarassing....apparently my roommate connected it backwards. Ref hose (in front) is supposed to be the upper, thinner tube coming off the EGR tube on the intake side of the internal orifice....
Back hose is supposed to be the lower, fatter tube coming off the EGR tube on the exhaust side of the internal orifice.

haven't tested this yet to see if it stops the error, but I'm going to bed excited to change this in the morning.
 






so this is quite embarrassing posting this, but yeah backwards vacuum hoses on the sensor was the problem. switched 'em and the check engine light went away. totally makes sense....the sensor would be getting the wrong pressure reading, hence telling the computer the wrong thing about the egr valve. wow....it actually took me awhile to find out what the correct placement of those hoses should be. anyway, lack of attention to detail, super embarrassing but interesting to know that will screw up the sensor and cause a CEL 332.
 






...This is good news, and a cheap fix...:biggthump
 






ooooohhhhh yeah, sweet sweet victory. Passed the California smog/emissions test with flying colors, with my old ford with 213k miles on it, haha. pretty cool, I barely passed it two years ago, haven't done much cleaning or maintenance on the engine or fuel injectors since then. and in the last month ran "guaranteed-to-pass" stuff through a fuel tank of gas, then filled up with lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner and took the test at half-tank, so tehre was still some lucas in it. also beforehand changed two spark plugs (pain in the butt to get to almost all of them, so we just changed the ones that we could get to...) and my roommate said you could smell all the chemicals on the two plugs we pulled out, haha. replaced the two vaccum tubes on the dpfe/egr pressure sensor, oil change....and yeah passed WELL in their words (the shop).
 






gonna spray some b12 chemtool or seafoam down the throttle body to clean that out some, see what happens. I was gettin' a lot of pre-ignition ping so I know there WAS a lot of carbon buildup. with the two fuel/injector treatments i've run through the engine, that's probably already helped a lot....but I can't really tell cause it only showed in much harder driving conditions than I normally drive it.
 






...Congrats on passing Smog..:biggthump

...You might want to finish changing plugs and wires first..

...I would suggest taking the throttle body off to clean it though...You have a vacuum hose that goes to the SPV and canister, and you also have the idle air control attached....Both of which you will be gunking up with the crud that comes off of the throttle body...;)
 






good advice, tbars, thanks. I'll get to the spark plugs when I have enough money. right now, though, the car runs great. ended up seafoaming the engine through the throttle body, pretty cool effect but not nearly as much billowing smoke as I'd heard is usual (which...maybe means my engine wasn't that dirty).

since I'm in a cleaning mode, decided to pull off the EGR valve and check out how dirty it is (carbon). only problem, I'm lookin' at the manual on how to remove the EGR valve from the EGR valve-to-exhaust-manifold tube and it says there's a nut which....doesn't appear to be moving at all and I'm really torquing it. I'm not even sure if I'm trying to losen the right thing, if the nut is on the EGR tube or the EGR valve....love how vague the manuals can be. tbars have you ever removed your EGR valve and was it really tough to separate the EGR valve from the tube that runs from the valve to the exhaust manifold?

I'll post a few pics as soon as I can....
 






here are some pics:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/the_mccloud/3478814065/sizes/o/in/set-72157614909858640/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/the_mccloud/3479621764/sizes/o/in/set-72157614909858640/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/the_mccloud/3478814181/sizes/l/in/set-72157614909858640/

the last one and the first one show the connection point between the EGR valve and the tube below it....the green circle in the last pic has a hex "screw?" which I initially tried to get out thinking that was the connecting "nut", to no avail. can't find a size that works in SAE or Metric....it's appears to be between 7/64" and 3mm, and no sets that I've seen have a size in between those two measurements (7/64" is the closest match, but it always slips). and then there's the red circle which....I've W-40'd it a bit. that definitely looks like a nut that'll move, but I haven't been able to budge it.
the manual says you can remove the tube while the valve is still bolted to the intake manifold...so...that's what i'm trying.

just wondering if you've done this before and if your setup is similar! maybe I'm not torquing hard enough
 






went to Autozone - they said what's outlined in red is the nut I need to move, and it's most likely seized up due to rust and all the super hot-cold it's been through over the years. Said to spray it down with PB Blaster and then break it free, probably with a breaker bar. So I'll try that in a week or so when I have more time and see what happens.
 






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