94 Explorer VIN X V6 runs for a minute and dies

[budwich]

My rad shack VOM is the same... yep buzz is basically continuity... basically it is used to help keep your eyes on the test as opposed to trying to look at the meter and the test points. I would expect the readings to be a little lower but it depends on battery conditions and such.... when you touch your leads together... what is the reading???

I would try to measure to the first component in a run / trace as opposed to plug pin to connectors solder point. One other things... check out the inside of the plug (not sure which is female or male) but make sure the mating pins in the female are looking ok.

The bad news on this side... is that I am gone away til just before xmas... sorry but hopefully you will ultimately be successful in your effort... you are almost there.

 

[jadams]

The bad news on this side... is that I am gone away til just before xmas... sorry but hopefully you will ultimately be successful in your effort... you are almost there.

Enjoy and have a good time. I took a second look at my repairs and don't think I actually made any difference. Time to slow down and clean them then get a better soldering iron, I don't think mine is hot enough.

 

[budwich]

one thing that we might have over looked ... ensure that the connector / pin on both ends (ie. cable and board) are clean... use a electrical contact spray cleaner.... your problem could be that simple. good luck. I had this similar problem with a chrysler a few year back... it was very tough to get the contacts cleaned cause of density and the number of pins and no easy way of getting at them.

 

[jadams]

Just found another thread here under EEC IV and the symptoms were exactly the same as mine when the failures began. His problem was also the PCM/ECM. When I checked the link to Advance/Checkers/Kragen I could get a remanufactured one for $99 (+ tax and 1 year warranty) for my F47F-DBA module. As a couple of people have pointed out the workmanship and component design limits of OEMs are marginal, but within design limits, so.....

Here's the blurb for Checkers PN 785809:
High Quality:
* 100% re-flow of all critical ECM components ensures stronger, longer-lasting parts.
* 100% computerized full-function testing on all units with on-the-car extremes of heat, shock and vibration.
* Common component failures are upgraded and replaced 100%.
* Surge protected quad drivers are installed on ECMs to reduce installation warranties.
* Advanced Robotic remanufacturing equipment ensures precision-made units and consistent high-quality with every part.

I know there has been some disagreement about this quality and design limit issue so I offer a personal story. My father worked for General Motors during the 50s and 60s in Warren, Michigan as a prototype spring designer and in manufacturing. He told me a story about how he was designing a spring mechanism for a starter. He was told to redesign it because the mean time to failure was unacceptable. It was lasting too long, basically cut the duty cycles in half before failure.

These components are only designed to last for so long, just note the part about "common component failures". I wish I knew what they were it might help me with mine. By the way, the project I've undertaken, trying to repair mine, has now resulted in the vehicle not starting at all unless I heat it up, the PCM, with a hair dryer. I have cleaned all contacts tested for continuity from the pins all the way to the first components and they check out OK. I'll post updates as they occur.

 

[jadams]

Here's an update. Received new "used" PCM yesterday and installed it. Car started on 1st try and also started easier as in fewer cranks before running. Have driven the car a little over 50 miles and no problems. I should note that pre-ignition(?) stuff like rattling/pinging sound are gone and acceleration is better. Changed the oil, Quaker State 5W30 with Slick 50, and filled it up at Chevron regular, checked tire pressure and inflated each to 38psi, now to check the gas mileage.

So what actual effect does gasoline and oil brand/type and tire pressure have on MPG?

Can anyone clarify what that sound was I use to hear when hiway driving and accelerated gradually and heard that rattling/ pinging, but disappeared if I accelerated more aggressively?

I hadn't really thought about this part, but what is the expected life of my engine, 94 Vin X 4.0L 137,000 miles, after reworking heads, new gaskets, etc? I know there are a lot of other factors involved, just curious what others have experienced.

 

[OldSchoolFord]

Congrads on the repair! My stock 94 has 179K miles and no signs of slowing down. That should give you an idea of how long yours will last. It seems that no matter what I do or how I drive I will always get 17 MPG.
Good luck with the truck
Chris