'94 Ford Explorer 4 x 4 Inner Hub Replacement

[jasonk27000]

Hello everyone,

First of all, just a quick reminder that I'm a rookie when it comes to car repair, so fell free to speak to me like a 12-year old.

The front disk brakes went bad about 8 months ago. After having fixed a multitude of other problems with my truck, I chose to let it sit - and share my wife's car or ride my bike to run errands. I now finally got around to fixing them. I replaced the rotors, calipers and pads. But then, after waiting 8 months, I then had to replace the battery, and also replace the gas. Everything now seemed to work fine as I went to back it up out of the driveway. But, when I went to go forward, it wouldn't move (it moved a little, however - it sounded almost as if the front wheels were sliding, or had locked up). I was, however, able to slowly and patiently drive/slide it back into the driveway.

The bottom line is that when we jacked up the front tires and removed the front hub assemblies, either me or my assistant had neglected to put the steel + plastic cam assembly w/ the the spring garter back on one side (the bearings and the inside of the hub assembly had not been greased very well either). And the frustrating part is that we could not find this steel + plastic assembly anywhere! It's a complete mystery!

We tried to find this part at every conceivable auto parts store, or try and have it special ordered - to no avail. We tried various junkyards with similarly unfortunate luck. I had an extremely difficult time explaining the specific part to the Ford dealership - and the only serviceable response I got from them was to order some kind of a manual 4-wheel drive kit.

Now my first embarrassing questions is: Is there any way I can bypass this missing part assembly, along with the one on the other side (or any other parts related to the 4-wheel drive system) - since I don't need the 4-wheel drive function - only the functionality of the brakes.

Otherwise, I would greatly appreciate any other suggestions someone might have. There's obviously a solution to every problem, but I just haven't been able to come up with it... Again, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated - and I'm definitely in it for the long haul. I am more than willing to try every suggestion, and am committed to working on it until it is back up and running.

Warm Regards and take care.

Jason Knox

 

[elementalnature]

I'm a rookie to the site, and not to familar with the Ford 4WD system but it sounds to me as if you have completely screwed your hub. I think a way to tell would be to put it into 4WD and see if it will drive. If it does then the hubs can be replaced. Look at Warn for manual locking hubs. If it doesn't, then I would say that somewhere along the lines you may have screwed up in the process of putting your brakes in and the brakes are preventing the front wheels from moving. But seeing as how you mentioned that you have misplaced and forgot to install the spring for the hubs, I would go ahead and order some new ones from Warn. But wait until someone more knowledgable with Fords come along.

 

[DeRocha]

The part you are looking for is the 4x4 autohub cam assembly (pictured below). Besides the cam what else is missing? I am trying to figure out why you had difficulty pushing the truck. Normally I would assume the brakes were dragging on rusted rotors (very common on vehicles that have sat for a while). If its just the cam that was missing then you can run without it and just won't be able to use 4x4. Check out the 1st gen brake diary thread for lots of info and pics on these components.

 

[Dannyboy]

I have that part laying around if you need one let me know.

Assembly of the front end from outer knuckle out (what caliper slides onto)

spindle-5 nuts, slides over axleshaft

rotor- holds an inner and outer bearing, inner bearing has a seal to hold it in place, outer will freely fall out

spindle nuts, cam assembly (pictured above), includes a small metal tab that needs to be slid in groove of the spindle

splined retaining washer over axle shaft
c-clip
hub
brake (2 caliper slide pins)
wheel
lugnuts

I've done this process wrong the first time as well. Did you perhaps over tighten the spindle nuts? I did that wrong and within 10 miles of driving my bearings seized up and welded themselves to my spindle. When you replaced the bearings, rotors did you install the races correctly inside the rotor.


We will get you through this, I usually break everything down and lay it out on a towel in the order I removed it from the truck. Grab pics of what you have in question and we'll have you rollin in no time.

 

[jasonk27000]

Thanks for the fast replies!

You know, DeRocha - that link you sent me (along with the picture) are actually what I printed up and used to replace the brakes. The part that's missing is the autohub cam assembly (with the spring retainer ring). Everything else is there.

If it could eventually operate it without the use of 4-wheel drive, that would be fine. As for the brakes being the culprit, the initial mistakes on our part were: we originally forgot to bleed the brakes (I've since bled them). And secondly, my buddy originally forgot to grease the bearings on the left side (which I've since greased and repacked). However, I've been leery of driving it, since I automatic assumed the missing inner cab assembly was the major contributor - and made it unfit to drive.

If that's the case, I'm curious to take it for a test down the driveway again. Before doing so, would I have to remove the cam assembly from the other side as well?

And by the way, thanks for your fast and knowledgeable help, DeRocha -- it's much appreciated.

Thanks for your advice as well, elementalnature. I hope that's not the case. But, I thought I'd do it myself and save a little money - so I guess you get the service you pay for

Warm Regards

 

[DeRocha]

...I've been leery of driving it, since I automatic assumed the missing inner cab assembly was the major contributor - and made it unfit to drive.

If that's the case, I'm curious to take it for a test down the driveway again. Before doing so, would I have to remove the cam assembly from the other side as well?...

The cam assembly only comes into play when you are engaging 4x4, or reversing direction to disengage 4x4.. Leaving the cam off one side just means that hub will never lock. The other side (with the cam) will lock & unlock normally. But unless you have a locking or limited slip differential the power will be sent to the unlocked hub where it will free spin.

 

[elementalnature]

The cam assembly only comes into play when you are engaging 4x4, or reversing direction to disengage 4x4.. Leaving the cam off one side just means that hub will never lock. The other side (with the cam) will lock & unlock normally. But unless you have a locking or limited slip differential the power will be sent to the unlocked hub where it will free spin.

Three-wheel drive in other words

 

[jasonk27000]

Thanks for all of the follow-ups

What an amazing forum to say, the least. I tried test-driving it today after having re-packed the bearings with more Mag 1 Lithium Multi-Purpose Grease. And again, the same problems. It seems to drive perfectly fine in reverse, but when I put it in drive, the truck doesn't move. It's only when I apply pressure to the gas pedal, that it finally surges forward for a second or two, and then sort of just locks up (or almost slides forward). And if I apply pressure to the gas, the process repeats itself.

I had a friend stand by as I was reversing - and pulling forward today - to try and pinpoint the area that the "locking-up" sounds were coming from. And we both agreed that the noises actually appeared to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, from the tires (and slightly louder from the left rear tire). And almost even slightly further forward from the left rear tire. But to be accurate, they were still slightly audible from the front as well.

So this threw me for a curve-ball, as I hadn't had any problems with the rear brakes. The only original problem was with the front brakes (with the battery and gas being replaced after my mechanical hiatus).

Is there a possibility the problem stems from a problem with parking brake somehow being partially employed... Or could it actually be a problem with the Anti-lock brake system? However, the ABS light on the dash will stay on for a few seconds, and then shut off, but from what I've researched it still seems as though it could be a possible culprit. Is there a way I can disable the ABS just to rule it out?

Although, as most of you have mentioned, I have a feeling I might have simply botched the front brake job.

Embarrassing Question Number 2: DeRocha, when you mention the 4-wheel drive disengaging when you drive in reverse, since the truck drives fine in reverse is there any possibility of the 4-wheel drive trying to engage itself, despite the one missing cam assembly - since the problem only seems to occur when I drive forward?

Also, thanks for the words of encouragement, Dannyboy - I've been staying up until 6:00 AM for the past 2 night, pouring over guides and manuals - and kicking myself; trying to figure out what I might have done wrong. These valuable forums almost seem worth the cost of an Explorer alone.

And I suppose there is a possibility I over-tightened the spindle nuts - as I didn't have the proper torque wrench or adapter (nor had one of the bearings been properly greased). And now, I'm a little nervous as I can't seem to remember the step involving the races and rotors. I remember installing the bearing and seal, but I am going to have to go back and check the races.

Anyways, you guys are certainly the experts - and if it looks like a clear-cut case of a botched front brake job, I'll take Dannyboy up on your solid advice, and take everything apart - and start from scratch. I'll post pictures too if that will help.

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but thank you all very much for your help!

 

[DeRocha]

Answers in blue

What an amazing forum to say, the least. I tried test-driving it today after having re-packed the bearings with more Mag 1 Lithium Multi-Purpose Grease. And again, the same problems. It seems to drive perfectly fine in reverse, but when I put it in drive, the truck doesn't move. It's only when I apply pressure to the gas pedal, that it finally surges forward for a second or two, and then sort of just locks up (or almost slides forward). And if I apply pressure to the gas, the process repeats itself.

An easy test to eliminate the front end would be to block the front tires and put the rear axle on jack stands so both tires are off the ground. Now put the vehicle in drive and see if the problem persists. If it does the problem
is with your rear brake shoes hanging up, your transmission, transfer case, or rear differential.

I had a friend stand by as I was reversing - and pulling forward today - to try and pinpoint the area that the "locking-up" sounds were coming from. And we both agreed that the noises actually appeared to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, from the tires (and slightly louder from the left rear tire). And almost even slightly further forward from the left rear tire. But to be accurate, they were still slightly audible from the front as well.

So this threw me for a curve-ball, as I hadn't had any problems with the rear brakes. The only original problem was with the front brakes (with the battery and gas being replaced after my mechanical hiatus).

Is there a possibility the problem stems from a problem with parking brake somehow being partially employed... Or could it actually be a problem with the Anti-lock brake system? However, the ABS light on the dash will stay on for a few seconds, and then shut off, but from what I've researched it still seems as though it could be a possible culprit. Is there a way I can disable the ABS just to rule it out?

Yes! if the rear drum brakes are frozen or have junk in them they can behave differently when going forward than reverse. This happend to me a while back when a pieice of brake shoe broke off. It would bounce around within the drum and wedge itself between the pad and drum when going forward.. If I reversed direction it would free the jam.. In any casue you should pull the drums to see whats going on with the rear brakes.

ABS has no affect on your problem. ABS pulses the brake lines when the wheel sensor detects the wheel is not moving (the exact opposite of your problem). If ABS were to come on you would hear the buzzing sound associated the the ABS hydraulic unit pulsing the brakes. BTW If you aren't pressing the brake ABS wouldn't have any brake pressure to re-leave.

Although, as most of you have mentioned, I have a feeling I might have simply botched the front brake job.

Embarrassing Question Number 2: DeRocha, when you mention the 4-wheel drive disengaging when you drive in reverse, since the truck drives fine in reverse is there any possibility of the 4-wheel drive trying to engage itself, despite the one missing cam assembly - since the problem only seems to occur when I drive forward?

The automatic hubs will unlock when you reverse direction (not drive in reverse).. Therefore if you were driving in "R" with 4x4 ON the hubs would lock in with the wheels Turning clockwise. If you deactivated 4x4 and then put it in "D" the wheels will rotate counterclockwise causing the hubs to unlock.

Also, thanks for the words of encouragement, Dannyboy - I've been staying up until 6:00 AM for the past 2 night, pouring over guides and manuals - and kicking myself; trying to figure out what I might have done wrong. These valuable forums almost seem worth the cost of an Explorer alone.

And I suppose there is a possibility I over-tightened the spindle nuts - as I didn't have the proper torque wrench or adapter (nor had one of the bearings been properly greased). And now, I'm a little nervous as I can't seem to remember the step involving the races and rotors. I remember installing the bearing and seal, but I am going to have to go back and check the races.

Anyways, you guys are certainly the experts - and if it looks like a clear-cut case of a botched front brake job, I'll take Dannyboy up on your solid advice, and take everything apart - and start from scratch. I'll post pictures too if that will help.

It does NOT sound like a bad front brake job.. If the front brakes were bad they would perform the same going forward or in reverse. Because you indicate the vehicle runs in reverse then your front brakes would not be suspect.


Sorry to sound like a broken record, but thank you all very much for your help!

 

[jasonk27000]

Next Step

OK DeRocha,

I jacked up the rear wheels - ready to troubleshoot those next steps - and the wheels don't spin. You can't move 'em!

 

[DeRocha]

OK DeRocha,

I jacked up the rear wheels - ready to troubleshoot those next steps - and the wheels don't spin. You can't move 'em!

Did you test this in neutral or drive? If you put the transmission in neutral (and parking brake off) you will be able to rotate the wheels by hand..

 

[jasonk27000]

Did you test this in neutral or drive? If you put the transmission in neutral (and parking brake off) you will be able to rotate the wheels by hand..

I did it in neutral with the parking brake off - and nothing - they won't rotate by hand.

 

[jasonk27000]

Next Question

Has anyone else ever experienced this problem? Again, I'm fairly new to vehicle maintenance and repair -- but the first thought thing that popped into my head was that perhaps the parking brake was malfunctioning, or somehow engaging, or partially engaging -- when it obviously shouldn't be.

And another thing -- I thought that someone ruled out the possibility of it having anything to do with the Anti-Lock brakes, but I did a quick scroll through the thread and didn't see anything. So, I forgot to mention it, but I was wondering whether the ABS might have anything to do with it -- seeing as how they act as sort of the nerve center to the braking system, and seem to balance and maintain the brake pressure to all 4 brake lines; and in that regard - they also would appear to control tire movement as well, and whether or not your tires lock up based on the functionality of your brakes (although it's still stuck a little in layman's terms to me).

Anyways, thanks for all of the advice so far, I've tried to follow-up on every piece of advice. And I've literally only gotten 6 or 7 hours of sleep the past 3 nights (I do have chronic insomnia, though) -- But, I'm still frustrated as to why basic critical thinking skills haven't produced any answers yet. I think that once you get from Point A to Point B, you now have the foundation to get from Point B to Point C, and so on and so on...

But all the great advice from strangers, that are nice enough to take time out of their days to help a complete stranger has really kick-started my enthusiasm in coming up with a solution to this problem (as opposed to abandoning it off a cliff )

Thanks to everyone for their help. DeRocha you're been a tremendous help and a class act. Maybe I'll give the job a rest for at least one day (or part of the day); and try to help some other people out with their problems, but I'm so behind the curve compared to most. But there's always that 1 car problem that's a total fluke -- but then there's always that one person who seems to happen to know exactly what it is.

Have a nice weekend, everyone!

 

[DeRocha]

I did it in neutral with the parking brake off - and nothing - they won't rotate by hand.

If both rear wheels are off the ground with the Transmission in Neutral and the E-Brake off the wheels should move easily. ABS only comes into play with the engine running and it detects a No wheel spin condition (At which point ABS would release pressure in the brake line and allow your wheel to move)..

Its time to remove the wheels and drums and see whats going on inside. Rear drums can be a little confusing if you have never done them before.

 

[jasonk27000]

The Drums

Yeah, that about sums it up. I took the rear brakes apart -- and all 4 drum shoes were severely cracked (and a rusted mess). I trusted they were fine since my usually trust-worthy mechanic gave them his check of approval. It was my front caliper that was damaged and had begun to leak.

Of course, the rear wheels are spinning again -- so I really appreciate your troubleshooting efforts.

But anyways, I'll go ahead and replace the rear drum brakes by following my trusty repair manual -- it hasn't steered me wrong yet, so hopefully I'll report a working vehicle again shortly.

Take care!

Warm Regards,
Jason Knox

 

[DeRocha]

Glad to hear you found the source of the problem. It definitely feels good to find it, rather than to drop it off @ a shop to have them poke around.

 

[Tony H]

It sounds like you forgot to put the Metal locking Key between the Nut and the Spindle. As you moved forward, the Nut tightened on the bearing. If you go backwards, will the tires turn? Did only the Passenger side Lock up when moving forward?

Oops, Didn't read ALL the posts. I guess you got it

 

[jasonk27000]

I think I jumped the gun a little bit

It sounds like you forgot to put the Metal locking Key between the Nut and the Spindle. As you moved forward, the Nut tightened on the bearing. If you go backwards, will the tires turn? Did only the Passenger side Lock up when moving forward?

Oops, Didn't read ALL the posts. I guess you got it

Sorry for the delay in posts, there was a tough and unexpected death in our family -- so my thoughts and priorities have been elsewhere in the past few weeks.

Tony and DeRocha -- Thanks for the post; and the follow-up. However, I'm afraid I jumped the gun on thinking I had found the solution.

Anyways, after finally getting back to normal matters -- I just got back around to following-up on my truck and brake problems. And hopefully, I'll have this thing up and running in the next week or so. When I say I jumped the gun on finding the solution; after I removed the cracked drum shoes from one side of the vehicle, the axle seemed to spin, albeit very slowly (and with a minor bit of force). I thought once I removed the drum shoes from the other side (which was even more cracked), the axle would spin completely normal again.

Then life got interrupted - and once I finally got back around to removing the drum shoes from the other side just yesterday, I realized the problem still remains.

The axle will spin, but only with a significant amount of force. If I take a crowbar and leverage it against the lug-nut retaining bolts, the axle will spin forward (and even by hand with a lot of force). It will spin this way very slowly - and also sometimes - seemingly lock-up, and not move at all for a second, but then eventually spin, albeit, of course - with significant force.

So, I guess that problem wasn't exactly resolved - and I'll have to do some homework, and see if I can find something that points me towards the solution. I'm still familiarizing myself with the rear drum brakes, so maybe the answer's a couple chapters away.

However, your post, Tony H, hit the nail right on the head - as far as the symptoms are concerned. I couldn't have communicated the symptoms any better. I was able to drive backwards perfectly fine. But, when I went to drive forward - that's when it started to lock up, and didn't want to drive forward. Also, a friend of mine who was helping me, also pointed out that the noise created when trying to drive forward, when it would lock-up, seemed to be coming from the passenger side. So, I'll have to retrace my notes (and posts) to remind myself what the metal locking key is exactly. There was also an issue where I lost the plastic/steel inner hub assembly (with the spring garter around it) on the driver side, so I went ahead and put everything back together without it - understanding that it won't be a problem. I'll just not be able to use my 4-wheel drive (which I don't need at this point). So, is it somewhere in that area where I might have forgotten to put the metal locking key back in...

Anyhow, I'll take a look at the manual - and remind myself what that metal locking key is. But, thanks for the help, Tony H - I'll retrace my steps and go over the part you mentioned - and see if that does the trick (fingers-crossed, though! With my vehicle repair history, it never seems to turn out being something that simple! ).

I can also post pictures if that might offer any insight.

Anyways, sorry for the long post. And thanks again for all of the help so far - it's much appreciated!

Take Care,
Jason Knox

 

[Tony H]

Jason give me your e-mail address, I have a few Pics I can send to Identify the parts

hoffm_t@tdipower.com

Or tony.hoffman@tdipower.com

 

[YourNameHere]

Sounds to me like the E-brake cable is frozen.
Did you have the parking brake engaged while it sat?