'94 Running Very Badly

[Don Coyote®]

My mechanic says it's throwing several codes, the one that puzzles us most is the 212: "No Tachometer input to processor". (He has a very snazzy code-reader from "Snap-On" Tools).

According to the "Sticky" on codes that I just made a search on, it says... "Ignition module circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded".

It is also throwing out a 216 and a 217. (Primary coil circuit failure).

It's been running poorly for quite some time, but I blame that on a clogged catalytic converter. However, early this spring, I arrived at work just fine and spent the day as usual. Then, when I left for home, my engine ran COMPLETELY differently. It was quite adequate when I shut the engine off, but didn't run worth a damn after work. (I can't say it ran good,... but it ran ten times worse after work).

Last Fall, it got a new fuel pump, new FPR, new spark plugs, ... and this spring I put on a new ignition coil, (didn't need it,... ran the same), a different cam-position sensor, and a different EGR valve. (Both from a "parts" vehicle).


It doesn't want to idle, and it misfires. The tachometer seems to go psycho at times... in time with the hesitations in the engine. (I've never experienced a tachometer to be so affected by the performance of the engine).


My mechanic and I are pulling our hair out trying to figure out which module/sensor/coil/chipmunk needs replacing. (And HE doesn't have much hair left to begin with). :

Please,..... if anyone out there can shine some light upon our dark dilemma, it just might ward off a new prescription of "Rogaine".

Thank you,..... Don® (Mike).




('94 Eddie Bauer Explorer,... by the way).

 

[runderwo]

Have you tried swapping the ECM yet?

 

[Iron Weasel]

DTC 212 indicates a loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Couple that with DTC's 216 and 217 and you're probably looking at a faulty ICM (Ignition Control Module).

A new ICM runs around $200, if not more, so if you're not willing to spend money that may be unnecessary, have your mechanic troubleshoot the ICM a little bit to either confirm or rule out that part as the cause. Your mechanic should have (or be able to access) a factory service manual, an online subscription service like Alldata, or basic manuals like Haynes or Chilton.

If you guys can't get a hold of a manual or something, lemme know and I'll post up the tests for the ICM.

 

[Don Coyote®]

I could also get a Ignition Control Module from a parts machine before shelling out big bucks at the parts store. (Parts vehicles are abundant in my area).

Is the ECM the same thing as the ICM?


I love this place,..... Thanks Guys!

 

[Iron Weasel]

If you can get another ICM for low or no cost, go ahead and give it a shot.

The ECM is the same thing as the PCM - Engine Control Module / Powertrain Control Module. Different names for the same part. The ICM is the Ignition Control Module and it sits at the right front (passenger side) corner of the engine compartment just to the left of the headlight. It's a little black box looking thing and has a 12 wire harness plugged into it.

 

[Don Coyote®]

SUCCESS!!!


BOO-YAHHH!!!!

*Doing the Happy Dance*


I'm not 100-percent certain what did it, but it's running like brand new, again!!!

I got TWO ICM's from the junkyard, and the first one didn't make my engine run any differently. When I installed the SECOND one, my engine didn't run much BETTER ,... but it DID run differently. We pulled the truck up to the garage and did some more code-reading. Same ****, different day,... HOWEVER,... he did ask..."You changed the ignition coil recently, right?" I said "Yeah",... and then added ... "I still have the old one under the back seat.

My mechanic paused a bit and then said..."Lets try putting the old one back in".


My engine had been running kinda rough for quite some time, and that was one of the first things I did was buy a new ignition coil. (Just for the heck of it). It didn't have any effect at all,.... it didn't run any better, and it didn't run any worse.

.....But my engine ran like brand new after I put the old coil back on!!!

So,........ maybe it was the ICM, the old coil, a dirty connection on the coil wiring harness.......... or a combination of any of the above.

But it worked.

In celebration, I just finished sacrificing a chicken. (Extra crispy).

Thanks guys for your help. Thanks Weasel for the diagnosis of the code analysis.

I owe you all a big box of doughnuts. :biggthump

 

[Iron Weasel]

Good job.

 

[phantomexplorer]

same problem.....kinda

I have a 1992 ford explorer sport with the VIN X 4.0 V6. It has had the same problem, except it started out as a stalling problem. It would periodically stall, about a week apart. It throws a code 212 and 111, thats it. I replaced the fuel pump, sending unit, and filter, plug wires(8.8mm), plugs(Bosch platinum 2's)crankshaft position sesnsor(VIN X 4.0's have no camshaft position sensor) ICM, coil, PCV valve removed and a breather put in its place(vaccuum port capped), fuel cap, new O2 sensor(1992 VIN X 4.0's only have 1),and all sensors have been cleaned. I put in the new coil, test fired it, and it ran for about a minute and died. So I put in the ICM, It started, idled like crap for 10 minutes, so I took it for a test drive. It was running good at 2000 rpm's and then the engine just died, bo sputtering nothing. It went from 2000 rpms to zero instantly. It is now sitting at my brother in laws and refuses to make any attempt to fire. It was also blowing smoke from the back side of the intake. I've known the intake gaskets were bad for some time now, but they only leaked sporadically.
Here's what I've been told the issue could be, but haven't replaced yet:
1) Idle air control valve
2) Throttle position sensor
3) Timing set
4) Intake gaskets
5) Powertrain control module
6) Manifold pressure sensor
7) EGR valve

I can't afford to replace all these in one shot, and this truck has to run within 14 days. It's my only ride to work, and bumming rides is nearing it's end.
If anyone can lead me in the right direction, I will mail them a $50 cash. Call me if you have to (417)469-0098. Talk to Mike, my wife; Amber doesn't know anything more than what her brother tells her, and he's a dip-****.

 

[shaggymane]

In that long list I didn't see the fuel pump relay listed.

When the problem is a sporadic intermittent one I always drift towards something electrical. runs, won't run, runs a little, runs, won't run, runs poorly
(Maybe that's just me)

And a fuel pump relay is a cheap place to start

Good luck

 

[Don Coyote®]

I just brought her home from the garage. It hasn't run this good in three years! I'm sure the new catalytic converter has much to do with that. (We put that on before reading any codes).

Now I just need a new headlight. (And an oil change).

I love this place,..... thanks again, guys.

 

[Don Coyote®]

I have a 1992 ford explorer sport with the VIN X 4.0 V6. It has had the same problem, except it started out as a stalling problem. It would periodically stall, about a week apart. It throws a code 212 and 111, thats it. I replaced the fuel pump, sending unit, and filter, plug wires(8.8mm), plugs(Bosch platinum 2's)crankshaft position sesnsor(VIN X 4.0's have no camshaft position sensor) ICM, coil, PCV valve removed and a breather put in its place(vaccuum port capped), fuel cap, new O2 sensor(1992 VIN X 4.0's only have 1),and all sensors have been cleaned. I put in the new coil, test fired it, and it ran for about a minute and died. So I put in the ICM, It started, idled like crap for 10 minutes, so I took it for a test drive. It was running good at 2000 rpm's and then the engine just died, bo sputtering nothing. It went from 2000 rpms to zero instantly. It is now sitting at my brother in laws and refuses to make any attempt to fire. It was also blowing smoke from the back side of the intake. I've known the intake gaskets were bad for some time now, but they only leaked sporadically.
Here's what I've been told the issue could be, but haven't replaced yet:
1) Idle air control valve
2) Throttle position sensor
3) Timing set
4) Intake gaskets
5) Powertrain control module
6) Manifold pressure sensor
7) EGR valve

I can't afford to replace all these in one shot, and this truck has to run within 14 days. It's my only ride to work, and bumming rides is nearing it's end.
If anyone can lead me in the right direction, I will mail them a $50 cash. Call me if you have to (417)469-0098. Talk to Mike, my wife; Amber doesn't know anything more than what her brother tells her, and he's a dip-****.

.....Is YOUR catalytic converter as bad as mine was?

My truck doesn't burn a DROP of oil between oil changes,..... but it still was completely clogged! (With rust flakes, I assume).

Might be a BIG part of your problem.

 

[zero_psi]

i just bashed my cat out lol

 

[phantomexplorer]

The exhaust is brand new. I did a dual cat conversion with cherry bomb glass packs(30 more hp and sounds sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!) The converters are catco straight through race converters. I'm in the process of trying a new computer, but I ran the dtc 2 days ago, and a new code popped up, DTC 157The truck refuses to fire, timing set is in good shape(tore down the motor to check it. I have the MAF off, going to clean it, and theres a way to test the voltage. I'll try the fuel pump relay, and the computer, but the dtc's puzzle me. It started off as only 212 when it would periodically stall. The last time it stalled, it refused to fire; and up popped code 157, code 212 is still there as well. Would a bad PCM make it throw code 157 in addition to 212? When I pulled the intake, the ports were soaked in gas with this black carbon looking gunk. Also, when I pulled my idle air control valve, there was oil on the backside of it. How is oil getting in my intake? I also found out on this site that the VIN X 4.0's don't like the bosch platinum 2 plugs i'm running, so i'll have to get a get of single pole platinums. I've always liked Bosch and NGK, so i'll be sticking with them. Any more info is good though. This truck has everyone scratching their heads.

 

[phantomexplorer]

I've updated my list, as I've checked out a couple things and got new leads. I remind you, this thing now refuses to fire; so getting it to run would be a step in the right direction. Read my previous posts to see how a sporadic stalling problem turned into a no start situation.

Here's what I've been told the issue could be, but haven't replaced yet:
1) Idle air control valve (oil on it?)
2) Throttle position sensor
3) Timing set (just kosher)
4) Intake gaskets (shot, being replaced; but won't cause a no-start)
5) Powertrain control module
6) Manifold pressure sensor
7) EGR valve
8) Fuel pump relay
9) Fuel pressure regulator

 

[Shrkatty]

This is just a quick, first-post intro -- 'cause I'm having some of the same problems I've been reading about above (shudder!).

But, FWIW, I haven't seen much discussion about the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF -- the little bugger by the air cleaner). Four years ago mine got clogged with carbon deposits and caused a LOT of the problems I'm seeing described. Specifically, wildly erratic performance, particularly when it was hot/humid. Sometimes just a total shutdown. Pulled it out, gave it a shot of brake disc cleaner and it's run perfectly ever since.

Until yesterday.

And this time it's something else (I looked). I'm hoping something cheap like the Throttle Position Sensor (which I've heard will have about the same effect).

Or I might have to start throwing a few more bucks at this thing -- cause I still love driving it (Eddie Bauer, 5sp manual). HOPE it's not the ECM -- special order and SPENDY with the manual tranny.

Anyway, nice to see people still running these things.

~RH