94 Won't Start

[94pcofscheise]

Still having starting problems. Battery checks out OK. Removed starter & it passed AutoZone test (is it reliable?). Placed one end of jump cable on Pos. battery post & other end of same cable on relay OUTPUT post. Hear the solenoid on starter click, but starter will not crank. Checked voltage to relay INPUT and it read 12+. Am I correct to assume it is bad fender relay or battery cable? I did notice corrosion on end of wire at + battery post connection (wire that goes from battery post to relay, NOT the one that goes from post to starter). Have I overlooked anything else, i.e. bad ignition switch, frozen engine, etc.?

 

[ryf]

I just went through something similar.. I rewired the heavy and light wires to the starter, the fender solenoid is low amp, try putting a screwdriver between the two poles on the 2nd starter-side solenoid (consider not having your arm in there) someone said it was 2 gauge for the main, I used 12 for the secondary. you should only use thin strand wire as it handles the movement without breaking.. I used compression lugs from Home Depot (electrical section, usually used for home fuse/breaker panels) heat shrinked the connections to keep out water.

I also replaced the positive wire to the fender relay, as this runs the whole electrical system since the fuse block is wired to it as well (used remaining heavy wire)

good time to check grounds as well, ground wire battery to frame/ ground wire from firewall to back of engine.. mine were very brittle (bare wire/woven ribbon type)

so all in, if you do all of it, 8ish lugs for 2 gauge, at least 2 smaller lugs for the 10-12 gauge solenoid wire. I did mine with about 15 ft of heavy wire, and you'll need almost as much for the solenoid wire (it runs with the heavy one back towards firewall/ across the bottom of the truck (might want to rewire over the motor if you off road)

I cleaned up all my connections at the battery with lugs to make it look cleaner, but you'll definitely need a new battery connector (I used the clamp type, using the bolts of the clamp to hold the compression lugs) Consider also if you do reroute, get some appropriate sized plastic wrap/shielding to keep down abbrasion. don't forget the zipties!

watch the exhaust manifold, try and keep the wires as clear as possible, as it will get you back into this situation real quick!

 

[jimbo74]

def check the wires.. its common for them t ofail... expecially on older explroer and appear ok on the outside.... they corrode from the inside

 

[mrm121998]

Still having starting problems. Battery checks out OK. Removed starter & it passed AutoZone test (is it reliable?). Placed one end of jump cable on Pos. battery post & other end of same cable on relay OUTPUT post. Hear the solenoid on starter click, but starter will not crank. Checked voltage to relay INPUT and it read 12+. Am I correct to assume it is bad fender relay or battery cable? I did notice corrosion on end of wire at + battery post connection (wire that goes from battery post to relay, NOT the one that goes from post to starter). Have I overlooked anything else, i.e. bad ignition switch, frozen engine, etc.?

Is your explorer a standard or automatic? If it is a standard try looking where your clutch pedal is and at the top of the pedal there is a clutch silinoid make sure it is not that. Because I have been having problems with my truck not starting and I have to go under the hood and put a screw driver on the starter silinoid on the fenderwall to start it. A mechanic looked at my truck and where the clutch pedal starts at the clutch silinoid is not in place. So that is what the problem with my truck was.

 

[runasoft]

The starter test at Auotzone really isn't reliable. I say this because alot of times starter just get stuck and when you take them out and put them on the floor and even while taking them to AutoZone they get smacked around and this will cause them to unstick which will cause them to work on the test at autozone.

Make sure you have a enough cranking amps to start your car to begin with. If the starter doesn't turn and/or you here a rapid "RATATAT" sound when you turn the key, your starter is more than likely going out. Hit the starter with a hammer a couple of times and try to start the truck. If it starts then you know your starter is getting stuck and needs to be replaced.

Checking your wires for corrosion is also a good idea. I experienced the same problems you are having a while back and I did not have to change my wires but I did have buy a new battery and clean the terminals and what not.

I thought it was my fender well starter solenoid but it wasn't. I bought a new one anyways cause it was really inexpensive.

- Rudy

 

[urbanistic]

Still having starting problems. Battery checks out OK. Removed starter & it passed AutoZone test (is it reliable?). Placed one end of jump cable on Pos. battery post & other end of same cable on relay OUTPUT post. Hear the solenoid on starter click, but starter will not crank. Checked voltage to relay INPUT and it read 12+. Am I correct to assume it is bad fender relay or battery cable? I did notice corrosion on end of wire at + battery post connection (wire that goes from battery post to relay, NOT the one that goes from post to starter). Have I overlooked anything else, i.e. bad ignition switch, frozen engine, etc.?

im in the same boat my friend. In fact, thats why I signed on the site today.. to find a cause. Im guessing bad wires since I have all power etc. Replaced all my relays and the starter solenoid just a few months ago. Its gotta be the starter or the wires to it. Ugh.

I will post what I find on mine.

 

[urbanistic]

Okay checked it all out. Found that its the starter solenoid that is not juicing the motor. Did the tap, got it running. The wires down to it still look good, but Im going to replace those first. In fact, the starter and solenoid are a bit loose and the wires coming to the starter that bolt on was not very tight.

It can only be one of 5 things causing this problem:

1. Ignition switch... very doubtful
2. Bad anti-theft module... limited only I believe
3. Park Neutral Position switch...

Now on those three, you wont be getting juice to the starter relay, no clicky.

4. Starter relay
5. Wires from the relay to the starter.

Since Ive already replaced my relays, Im going to remove my starter and replace the cables coming down to it. Also, clean up the starter. Chances are its blown, but its worth a try if its a matter of corrosion in the wire. ****, anything over 20 bucks I attempt to clean and fix first hehehe!

I will take some pics of it, too.

 

[urbanistic]

Aight G... took off the starter. Benched it.. nothing. I could feel the starter mounted solenoid try to move... so I figured it was ok. I took it off the starter and tested it... worked fine. So I disassembled the starter. As with any motor, **** can get caught between the mags and the core. I took some pics I will post later. Basically, the inside of my motor was loaded with grit. Also, found that 2 of the 6-8 magnets were cracked. Obviously that was the problem. Also, there is 4 leads past the motor off the core where the ground is connected... 2 of the pads were shot.. obviously because the busted magnets was pulling the core causing it to seize.

Do they make a rebuild kit for the starter? ****, if a rebuild kit is only like 50 bucks, thats much better than 150 plus a core. I mean, if I replaced the circuit board and the mags.. I would probably be in business. Oh well, off to ebay for me. Hopefully I can find a chrome one.


So its fairly reliable to believe that if your fender mounted solenoid clicks with the turn of the key, and you have 12-13 vdc at the starter.. and the S terminal wire checks out good as well... then chances are your motor is ####tarded.

Taking apart the motor consists of 2 bolts, then 2 holding the case. 2 holding the solenoid on. I would always first check the solenoid... if it doesnt work, then open the motor and inspect it. If it doesnt smell burnt and all the magnets are intact.. and the pads on the leads are good... then I would try replacing that motor mounted solenoid and save 50-60 bucks. THe solenoid goes for 50-90 bucks.

I will post pics here later of the inside.