94 XLT Head Gasket

[It'll Hold]

I developed a big coolant leak yesterday on my way home. It looks like it's coming from the head gasket on the drivers' side of the car. Has anyone had one replaced recently? About how much will it cost to get a new gasket installed? The car is a '94 with 125,000 mi. I'm not sure how much money I want to put into it at this point.

 

[slag]

its fairly odd to have a head gasket blow and dump coolant *outside* of the engine.

But, to replace it, you will need to get upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, an exhaust manifold gasket, a throttle body gasket, some rtv, a good torque wrench, a gallon or two of coolant, 4.5 quarts of oil and a filter, some shop rags, and a case or two of beer.

yep, that should about do it..

oh, and get new head bolts. NEVER EVER EVER reuse head bolts.

 

[It'll Hold]

Thanks for the info, slag.

I'm assuming that it's the head gasket based off of my determination of where the coolant is dribbling from and what some people have told me.
In the limited distance I drove it after the leak blew, I didn't see any smoke coming out of my exhaust. I also didn't see any indication of antifreeze in my oil.

Is there a more likely leak point nearby where it could be leaking out?

 

[Maniak]

At about 180k miles our x (1992 x) blew a head gasket. I found it by tracing the nagging water leak (that got worse quickly).. Turns out it blew to the outside of the engine (no water went into the cylinder, that I could see by looking at the gasket).

Other than what was posted above, I would add, get cheaper oil (if you buy good stuff) and change it a few hundred (up to 1000) miles after you change the gaskets. You will get coolant into the crankcase when you do the headgasket and should change the oil shortly after doing the head job.

If you have the time etc... When you pull the heads, get them checked out. make sure they are still flat and have no cracks.

While your in there (if you have access to the right tools) you a die grinder with sanding pads and take off all the carbon building inside the heads (in the combustion chamber area) and off the top of the pistons (put the pistons at TDC so you don't hit the cylinder walls). Also, you can "lap" the valves.

This isn't a "full head job" but those few things can help restore some lost power etc and are worth the time/effort.

~Mark