96 5.0 - Observations while troubleshooting cooling system problems | Ford Explorer Forums

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96 5.0 - Observations while troubleshooting cooling system problems

nolimitssjca

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 22, 2006
Messages
243
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1
City, State
San Jose, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 XLT, 96 XLT, 97 Mounty
The day after Christmas, the wife, middle son, and I were 100 miles out of town at the in-laws and were just starting back. After stopping to get a Jamba Juice for the road. As we were walking back to the car and I noticed a fair amount of fluid running out under the Ex. A quick inspection showed a stream of water coming off of the water pump. (and the people rejoiced)

I had just completed a water pump/timing cover 3 weekend debacle with the 97 Mounty. Ironically both cars were within 1000 miles of each other (about 207k). I drove around the corner and bought 5 gallons of water from the grocery store and we headed home (no way I was attempting a repair 100 miles from home with no tools).

We started home and I kept an eye on the gauge and stopped every 30 miles to top off water (about 1/2 a gallon each stop). We made it home without incident and I started the repairs the next day. I had hoped to be able to complete this in 2-3 days.

As many of you already know removing a water pump on these Ex's involves the super human task of removing scaled rusty bolts from each edge. Long story short, both far edge bolts broke off and had to be removed the hard way. Don't even get me started about mating the radiator and the condenser. Needless to say it's easier with the fan out. Of course putting the fan back in is a major PITA.

The timing cover had to be replaced and everything had to be rebuilt from the engine block back. The timing cover seal was beginning to leak so this was good timing to replace it. I took the opportunity to use my air equipment and clean all the mating surfaces with scotchbrite disks. Since I had access I cleaned and painted the new and old surfaces and made everything look nice and clean.

I put everything back together and cranked it up. While it warmed up I noticed a slow drip out of the radiator. REALLY! OUT came the radiator and fan. I ordered a new radiator online (much cheaper). Days went by... the new one went in BUT it leaked from the cap so I bought a new cap. It still leaked! (and the people rejoiced)

I decided to return the radiator and have a local repair shop fix the old radiator. On pulling the new radiator and fan, the fan slipped and nicked the condenser. All that beautiful coolant hissed into the morning air. (and the people rejoiced)

I bought a new condenser online (much cheaper). The new condenser ports were located a bit off. I had to modify the plastic cover a bit but I got it to work. I installed the fixed radiator and the new condenser. OOPS! The port was to high and touched to hood when closing. Out came the radiator and new condenser. I took the old condenser to get it repaired. (and the people rejoiced)

The good news is with the condenser out I could easily mate the radiator and condenser and put them in as a unit without removing the fan (and I rejoiced!). I put it all back together and fired it up and handed over the keys to my wife. I let her know we would watch it until the weekend and then put in coolant and recharge the A/C.

She drove it to her mothers (remember the 100 mile trip?) and it poured water. She bought water and drove it back home adding water along the way just as I had the day after Christmas.

I pulled the radiator and took it back to the shop. The repaired it again (no cost) and back in it went. I drove it 10 miles and it poured live a sieve. (and the people rejoiced).

This time I took the whole truck to the radiator shop and said it leaks! They called me and said "you have a head gasket leak. You have milky oil and head gasket pressure is blowing the radiator". They suggested a chemical sealant and oil change for $450 or a head job for $1950. I said I'll take it home and let you know.

I decided to purchase a pressure tester and figure this out myself. I drained the oil and it was perfect. No moisture present (I've seen milky oil and this isn't it). I replaced both filters (I run a dual bypass filter system - thank you Aldive) and refilled the crank case.

I bought a new radiator locally, mated it to the condenser and in they went. I pulled the thermostat and verified it was oriented correctly. I drilled a 1/8 in hole in the thermostat to make sure water would flow (I didn't want to risk a pressure problem). With everything back together I was ready to test.

I put the pressure gauge on pressurized the
system. Between 7-10 pounds my outlet heater hose began to leak profusely near the control valve. Upon inspection I noticed there was no clamp. I don't remember ever having this off but there was a mark where a clamp used to be. I installed a new clamp and re-pressurized the system to 10 lbs. No issues.

The heater hose never leaked but the repaired radiator broke open after 2 repairs. Concluded that the radiator was worn from the inside and took less than 7 lbs to pop. In effect a fuse for the hose I suppose. (and the people rejoiced)

I then started the Ex and wanted to know how much pressure it creates when hot. I got to 5 pounds of pressure when fully hot so it should have held (the cap is rated @ 16 lbs).

It appears my cooling system is now working as designed with minimal pressure and there was no unnecessary work performed at my expense. If the repairs hold until the weekend, I'll recharge the A/C.

Until then... let the people rejoice!
 



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Wow, that is quite the ordeal. I recently replaced my timing cover on my 96 V8 and it's a much harder job than it should be.

Mainly:

- Dropping the oil pan to get the new timing cover gasket in place
- Pulling out broken water pump studs
- mating the radiator and A/C condenser

Hope it holds together!
 






OMG, that story sounds like something that would happen to me. glad you finally got it straightened out. a very entertaining read, by the way... (and we all rejoice).
 






After doing this job on two different Gen II's and seeing the similarities in the problems I just couldn't help but chuckle and share the story.

From now on I will pressure test any coolant repair I make before starting the vehicle.
 






The mechanic tried to take you for a ride. Had the head gasket blown, yes you could have combustion gasses blowing into the cooling system causing excessive pressure. BUT - All that pressure would have simply vented through the radiator cap and boiled out of your overflow coolant reserve tank. It would never blow up your radiator.

I think I'd find another mechanic after the people rejoice.
 






Agreed... It became obvious that the radiator and the repair shop were the weak points. Hopefully someone will read this and learn they are better off to do their own testing with the right tools.
 






I broke the 2 outer water pump bolts in the timing cover of my truck, but I just plugged the holes in the water pump, RTV'd the remnants of the bolts sticking out and installed the pump using the remaining bolts. No issues yet (one year later). No way was I going through that hassle on a 17 year old hi mileage engine.

Bill
 






Great read. You are so right though, we are definitely better off troubleshooting and repairing ourselves.

The learning curve can be painful. In the end we learn more, and any mistakes made are our own mistakes. Your story on the mechanical shop feeding you crap lines and repair bills is far to common.
 






Hey Bill, I seriously considered following your lead on both builds. I now know that the low pressure, 5#, makes that possible.
 






Getting ready to pull the engine from a 99 since the oil pan gasket tore when removing the timing cover...so much dislike. I didn't have any bolts break though.
 






I replaced the water pump. Everything seems to be working fine weeks later but there is never any pressure release when the radiator cap is being removed after driving. Does that indicate any future problems? And the people wailed.
 






:(
Is there any coolant loss? Why is the system not pressurizing? A coolant pressure tester would be a good thing right now.
 






I replaced the water pump. Everything seems to be working fine weeks later but there is never any pressure release when the radiator cap is being removed after driving. Does that indicate any future problems? And the people wailed.


How long do you wait before you take off the radiator cap? If your system is darn near completely full of coolant, that means there isn't a lot of air to get hot and expand.

Are you losing fluid at all, even a cup a month?
 






I take the cap off immediately. The water level is now always about 2 inches below the cap, just enough to cover the top of the visible internal fins. The radiator was losing about a cup per drive after changing the water pump, but now there is no loss. And the water in the resevoir never changes it's level. I seldom drive more than a few miles at a time so it may never get too hot even though it manages to get the needle to midline.

Yesterday I went repidly onto the freeway and the check engine light flashed vigorously for about 30 seconds and went out itself. Nothing seemed to be wrong during a check after that.
 






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