After doing a lot of reading concerning the replacing of a power door lock actuator, I have decided to post what I have done to replace my driver side actuator in my 96 XLT V8. My procedure is very similar to ones that have already been posted with the exception that I have a lot of photos to help illustrate what is involved.
First off, this is not a difficult job. I have never done anything like this before and it is no more than 25 minutes to get at and remove the bad actuator and about 15 minutes to install the new one. It was much easier than what I had anticipated.
The photos are on the web at this address:
http://tinyurl.com/55savo
1. Remove door panel. Instructions for this are at various places on this forum.
2. Disconnect any electrical connectors that are attached to door panel and put door panel aside.
3. Peel back plastic water shield from door area to gain access to location of actuator.
4. The actuator is attached to the door panel with an aluminum rivet. I have read various posts about not removing this rivet and spreading the actuator bracket apart to remove the actuator. It is much easier, IMHO, to drill out the rivet.
5. Locate the brass colored bolt at the bottom of the door panel. This bolt holds a window guide that will easily pull down and out of the way. Put window in up position. Notice how the guide attaches at the top area of the door. . Take it out of the door through an access opening or let it lay at the bottom inside of the door as I did. If the window guide is not removed as in my vehicle, I could not have removed the actuator. See door panel photo.
6. Look at the photos and look for the small yellow insert that the actuator arm is fed through. After drilling out the rivet, the actuator is now free to move around. Remove the electrical connector (in my photo it was at the end of the yellow cable).
7. Spray WD40 or some similar lubricant on the yellow insert and the formed end of the actuator. This will allow easier removal of the end of the actuator. The actuator should be rotated outward toward you and wiggled lose from the yellow insert. Take your time and be careful not to break the yellow insert. Now you can remove the actuator through an access opening. See photo.
8. You will need a machine screw mount the new actuator. I used as 1/4-20x1/4" stainless steel phillips along with a 1/4-20 stainless steel nut that has a nylon insert to lock it. The new actuator bracket can be pried away from the new actuator and the nyloc nut is attached to the inside of it with JB Weld. Let it set over night. See photo.
9. Assemble the bracket back on the actuator. Photo shows which way it faces.
10 Maneuver the new actuator arm through the yellow insert (from the back of the yellow insert) and attach the connector to the bottom of the actuator. It is the reverse of how you removed the old one.
11. Now put a drop of liquid dish soap on some threads of the machine screw that you will use to attach the actuator bracket to the door. This will make it easier to thread in and less likely to tear lose the JB Welded nut. The soap will eventually wash away or dry up and not affect the fastener. Tighten screw and reassemble door panel to door.
That's it. Sounds like a lot but look at the photos and see that it is easier than all the previous sentences describe.
Note: I have read that is is not worth the aggravation of configuring a universal actuator from a local parts store. The dealer could want upwards of $80 for a new one but I find them on ebay for $37 with shipping and it is made for the Explorer and drops right in like the original.
The special locknut with the nylon insert is pictured at this link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut.
You can get these at HD or Lowes. I used stainless steel fasteners because I live near the ocean. You might be able to use regular zinc or whatever the normal plating is for hardware.
