96 missing when cold

[96ploder]

My check engine light is on - need to replace an o2 sensor, but this weekend, it started skipping when cold and worse this a.m. I checked the plug wires, but all are on. What else can I check?I seems to clear-up after 15 minutes of driving - the ACT sensor? I added a K&N filter a while back - could it be the map or IAB valve?

 

[IgotTwo]

EGR maybe?

 

[96ploder]

Could be - just clean it and check diaphragm movement?

 

[IgotTwo]

Well I try to keep to the simple stuff
Did you clean MAF and or IAC?
The DPFE (hope I got the acro right) on the valve cover?
Black plastic valve with two hose....the hose on my 97 had a hidden crack coming off that. I am also told they get replaced a lot.
My purge canister valve also was screwing up the idle on my 97.

I not only checked my ERG for movement but used a vacuum gauge to test for varing engine vacuum through warm up and at different throttle positions.

 

[96ploder]

I'll try cleaning the IAB and MAF - which VC is the DPFE located on? Hope it doesn't need new plug wires - ripped-knuckle time!!

 

[Rhett]

If you do end up needing to change your plug wires, wrap some cloth around your hand when you're pulling the wires, and that way it might help protect your hands and knuckles.

 

[IgotTwo]

Forget the knuckles...you'll be more piss if you pull the wire out of the plug boot ...and its off to the parts store! haha!
Get a decent spark plug wire puller.

 

[96ploder]

Well, went and got the correct master cylinder from Advance (another story), but went by Autozone and they pulled codes: #7 cylinder misfiring and the O2 sensor on pass. side before cat is bad. How do you get the connection off that O2 sensor? I have replaced 2 of the 4, but that one is bad. Guess it's time for plugs also - gotta remove the fender liner right? Thanks folks for helping!

 

[IgotTwo]

See if this can work for you:
A 7/8” six sided box wrench is what I use. It gives you a lotta of angles to work from and you can whack it gently with a hammer if you have to. Cause the six sided seats well.

Disconnect the lead to the O2 first. The connector should fit though the box end on the wrench. Call me silly ...I don't like to cut things right off the bat.

The connectors should be toward the rear of the engine above the bell housing....you'll find em. Mason cord is a wonderful beautiful thing when you replace it ….as in “fish” the new O2 from above and you won’t have to hunt for the connector. It’s a little tight in there. Can you tell I work alone a lot?
Keep the plastic cap that the new O2 is shipped with on, when you drop it down.

I would blast it the old one with your favorite penetrating product and have the patience of a saint so it has time to do its job. I have been know to rap "really nasty guys” in aluminum foil, spray penetrating oil in there and do something else for a while.
Kinda gets the stuff to stay where you want it…no all over you, in your face and the garage floor.

 

[96ploder]

Thanks for the tips - will tackle this w/e. Got master cylinder on (glad I had the GT running so I could drive it yesterday) and I now can stop great. Cleaned the MAF and ATS off with brake clean. Wiggled the #7 plug wire and all seems well. 4 O2 snesors - why!!!!

 

[IgotTwo]

You seem to know what the "drill is" but:

Watch what you clean the MAF with. I use intake manifold cleaners which is MAF and IAC, etc "safe." The guys have a lot chatter on the site about using the right stuff.

You may have used one:
Keep an eye out for a neon spark tester....I pick these little gems up at car shows & swap meets. I think I got it for less than $5.... how could I lose?
It confirmed my suspicions when my coil was acting up and another time when I had a miss.

You also don't run the risk of screwing up the ECC ignition ....the light makes it so much easier to tell what the story is.

For what it is worth.