'97 U.K Explorer Heater control stays hot? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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'97 U.K Explorer Heater control stays hot?




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Gazza. Heater control: observations so far!!!

Hmmm, Bloody tricky this one! Firstly I'm now convinced that there is no heater control valve (in the Traditional sense) the engine coolant circulates the whole system including the heater matrix ALL the time! The dial hot/cold switch potentiometer (this is the theory bit!!) activates either the heater control unit, then/or the heater control motor!!! Which I imagine opens and closes flaps. Now the tricky stuff... in the excellent picture sent by Howard; you'll see a white unit on the top R/H corner of the console blower box,with the help of the local Ford dealer I think I've identified this as the Heater control motor? in the Haynes manual this appears as "console blower controller"... same thing in yanky... maybe? but typically it does'nt explain its function whatsoever!
Eitherway the retaining screws were loose on this, like someone has tried unsuccesfully to solve the same prob! However, the heater control unit in the Ford parts picture looks just like the unit behind the three dials! Confused...I am!!! Still I've got a pukka Handbrake and silent rear discs now! unfortunately replacing the cat is proving to be a bugger, so I've got to get the gas gun to this as well. Afterwhich, hopefully someone can clue me up on the heater before I remove the whole unit to see what does what!!!
 






Heater,what does what ....more or less!

Just in case anyone else is misfortunate to suffer this.....However unlikely.
The white controller is in fact an electronic motor with a shaft which opens & closes something (a flap/ door?) via a cam inside the console blower box, this is turned 180 by the temperature controller dial. There is a heater valve!!! this is directly below the waterpump in the first stage of the heater pipes and is operated by vacuum, however this valve is controlled by the blower/A/C position dial NOT the temperature dial. My problem lies within the Console blower box which has to be removed for dismantling, unfortunately loads of kit, and the A/C will need removal as well...... woe is me! I sincerely doubt if anyone has delved this far, if you have please advise me????
Gazza.
 






blimey - you are not having fun :thumbdwn:
 






Hello Gazza, I have the same problem! I have just bought it with 93k on the clock. Mine has been converted to LPG - has yours? I have replaced the heater control valve, but still have the problem. The module behind the glovebox is working. The control valve is working. Any ideas?

Phil06.
 






That sounds very like what is called the blend door problem. Do a search and you find a post with a repair without taking the heater box out.
 












a lot of hot air...

Howard said:
That sounds very like what is called the blend door problem. Do a search and you find a post with a repair without taking the heater box out.

Thanks Howard, I will try to find it...
 






Parking brake shoes (non-genuine) can be had for around £40 + P&P. I got mine from an eBay seller a couple of years ago. They still crop up quite regularly, as well as discs and pads. It can often be cheaper to buy your parts from the USA e.g. Rock Auto who ship to the UK and are happy to accept Pay Pal payments as well as credit cards. If you order anything in the near future I can send you a 5% discount code (expires 5th Dec). Rock Auto list the L/H cat at $211.79 US Dollars and the R/H cat at $220.79. Parking brake shoes start at $18.36 for the cheapies and $26.89 for the sooper dooper range. Postage may not be as much as you think. And there are probably cheaper suppliers out there...

Hope this helps

Simon H
 






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