98 Starting Problems

[mannyfresh]

My 98 Explorer wouldn't start - the Fuel Pump wasn't whining when I turned the key, so I assumed that it was either the Pump or the Relay. I checked the relay - it wasn't the problem. So I replaced the Pump -- and that wasn't the problem either. It still doesn't whine, so I'm thinking that it isn't getting juice for some reason (I haven't checked yet). Is there some other relay or circuit that I can test to see if the Pump is getting power? I saw something in another post about another relay under the driver side floorboard - but the thread ended there. PLEASE reply with any suggestions....

 

[caldi55]

Check I dont know off the top of my head if there is a fuel cutoff, if there is it needs to be reset. some cars have them if they get in an accident or get jolted hard Its a safety device so that in an emergency the fuel pump wont be pissing gas after an accident

 

[brettstains]

Update

Well, it looks like my problem is that the #19 fuse keeps blowing... Where could the short be? Is there any specific area I should start from, or will I have to trace the wires all the way through? Please let me know if anybody has had a similar problem.

 

[sk1er17]

theres a device you can actually buy that'll find the short for you. I dont know what its called though but ive used it before- maybe someone will know what im talking about....

 

[Opera House]

Does the fuse instantly blow?

The wiring sequence is fuse, relay, inertia switch, tank electrical connector, then pump. In the case of shorts, I pull the fuse and wire up a headlight to the fuse socket in place of the fuse.

I have a lamp cord with two U type wire crimp connectors on it. I cut one side of the U terminal so it will fit in the socket of mini and maxi fuses. A headlight works best for the lamp and this limits current to about 5A maximum. Most normal circuits draw enough current to cause the lamp to lightly glow. With a long cord, you can place the lamp where you can easily see it and then you can wiggle wires and look for a change in the lamp. With a sensitive digital voltmeter you can even check voltages. Voltage in millivolts gets lover closer to the short.

If lamp is bright at this point the short is before the relay. Look on the top of the relay. It will show the contact pins to short to have the pump run all the time. No key on will be needed. Pump should run with lamp in series and not too brightly.

If the lamp is bright with relay contacts shorted, unplug the tank connector. If it goes off, the pump is shorted or the wire has come off the pump and has shorted.

Lamp still bright. Lift up passenger side floor mat and inspect inertia switch. This can be unplugged. If lamp still on, it is a wiring problem between relay and inertia switch.

 

[Billz98explorer]

Sounds like a problem i was having.Every now and again my explorer wouldn't start,it wasn't doing this every time.Had it to the garage 4 or 5 times,everything that had to do with the pats system was replaced,including a new pcm,and even got new keys.Well any how 1 night at Walmart,I thought i was gonna be stranded,i popped the hood,and got into the main fuse box,hels my hand over where all the realays were and found a relay clickin off and on when the key was turned on,i swapped the relay around and i got the ck engine light to come on,when iy didn't come on when i turned the key to on it wouldn't start,i put the realy i took out and in a different location,and it started right up,but later to find out the relay i move to a different location was the culprat the whole time,any how i replace all 3 of the bigger relays in that box and haven't had a problem since.1 was the fuel pump relay,the other was a start run,relay,not sure what the other was. Well hopefully this may or may not help.
Billz4x4z

 

[Jon_Herr]

Fuel Filter

I had my fuel filter get so clogged it caused the fuel pump to suck more current than the connector on the inertia switch could handle.

Just FYI - clogged filter can cause pumps to work really hard... And as a consequence use a LOT of juice.