99 Explorer Troubles

[aberrant]

Hello,

I'm new here and have a 99 Explorer that's having a few issues. Instead of posting a new thread for each one, I'll just list them here.

1. The truck seems to have trouble starting at times. It had been sitting for a few months, not running. After replacing the battery it seems to be somewhat better, but still has trouble starting once it has sat for a day or two. If it's started and driven during the day, it doesn't have trouble starting again that same day. I was initially suspecting the fuel pump, but I can hear it run when turing the ignition on. I've also checked all fuses and they appear to be fine. Haven't tested any relays however, as I'm not sure where to start. Interestingly, it will usually start up on the third try or if I cycle the key on and off a few times. My next step was to replace the fuel filter as it is due for a new one. Any other things I should look at?

2. This explorer is equipped with the automatic ride control. It used to work fine, but now I never hear the compressor nor see the suspension level out. I checked the fuses for this system and they are fine. Again, did not check relays as I'm not too sure how to do this. I was able to locate the compressor, which is above my spare, but the only thing I hear when closing all doors with the ignition on, is a clicking coming from the compressor area. Any ideas what this is?

3. There is some sort of clunking coming from the front end. It is usually more evident when braking and coming to a stop and when turning sharply. I was told the lower ball joints have excessive play, so this is most likely the cause, but wanted to see if anyone had any other opinions.

4. The steering wheel is making a whine noise when turning left or right. It's faint, but there. Is this something I should be concerned about? Power steering fluid is topped off and always has been.

I've already successfully replaced the blend door actuator, battery, hood lift supports, fuse for the horn (controls chirp for alarm as well), and the vent hose on the rear axle (it was rotted off. found it when inspecting the compressor unit). Unfortunately the truck needs brakes, new tires (starting to rot, but still have lots of tread), a new windshield or seal (leaking in the top corners), rear lift gate hinge, and probably new lower ball joints. I love the truck, but these are a lot of costly repairs. The truck has about 116k on it. Engine and transmission seem fine, but not sure if they will give me trouble down the line. Are these pretty reliable? The truck has been great it's entire life (original owner), but I can see now it's starting to show it's age.

Also, here's a pic of what I believe to be the evap canister, but it connects to the compressor above the spare. Also, one side is open to the atmosphere and the end looks chewed up. Is this how it's supposed to be?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B045oqs3qTQqGW

Thanks for any help. Cheers.

 

[gatzdon]

I can't speak for your starting issues, but I do believe that ball joints will not make a clunking noise. At best, ball joints will creak loudly if they move out of place. That said, the bad ball joints may be causing your power steering to work extra hard and whine (or you have air in your power steering somehow).

If you have 4 wheel drive, the front axle will clunk if it has play in it. The play can be in any number of places including transfer case or CV joints.

 

[JusTheUsual]

My power steering just did that also. Take a turkey baster and suck out old fluid. Mine was nasty. Then put new in. Stopped my whining

clunking can be from the lower A arm...or even top one where it connects to the frame the bushings could be worn out.

No idea about ride control

Run a fuel pressure test to test your fuel pump

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel issues

. . .
1. The truck seems to have trouble starting at times. It had been sitting for a few months, not running. After replacing the battery it seems to be somewhat better, but still has trouble starting once it has sat for a day or two. If it's started and driven during the day, it doesn't have trouble starting again that same day. I was initially suspecting the fuel pump, but I can hear it run when turing the ignition on. I've also checked all fuses and they appear to be fine. Haven't tested any relays however, as I'm not sure where to start. Interestingly, it will usually start up on the third try or if I cycle the key on and off a few times. My next step was to replace the fuel filter as it is due for a new one. Any other things I should look at? . . .

I recommend replacing the fuel filter every 50K miles or every 5 years (whichever occurs first). Your symptoms are indicative of a weak fuel pump. I suggest that you measure the fuel pressure. On a 1999 the fuel pressure should be about 65 psi for all engine conditions.

 

[masospaghetti]

A slight whine when turning is normal. These pumps are just noisy, its not an indication of a problem.

Someone once called it the "Ford mating call". So true!

 

[aberrant]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I will run the fuel pressure test and replace the fuel filter since it needs a new one anyways. I'm assuming it's okay to replace the fuel filter with a good amount of gas still in the tank?

As for the clunking, I will inspect the lower arm and bushings.

For the power steering, new fluid couldn't hurt so I will add new. Won't sucking it out though cause air to get in, which in turn could cause more problems?

 

[JusTheUsual]

gas and power steering fluid don't matter to the levels and wont get air in your system

 

[aberrant]

I recommend replacing the fuel filter every 50K miles or every 5 years (whichever occurs first). Your symptoms are indicative of a weak fuel pump. I suggest that you measure the fuel pressure. On a 1999 the fuel pressure should be about 65 psi for all engine conditions.

In regards to replacing the fuel filter, what is the best way to properly depressurize the fuel system? I've seen a number of videos on youtube, but each one has a different way of doing it. Some flip the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel, some take out the fuel pump relay, and some say you just have to open the gas cap. Either way, removing the fuel pump relay and taking off the gas cap seems like a safe bet. I'm assuming it's good to start the vehicle as well and let it die for extra measure. Just don't want to get a gasoline shower like some have experienced. Thanks.

 

[JusTheUsual]

Don't be scared. I change fuel filters and pumps without doing all that stuff. I just shut off truck and make sure everything is cooled down then do it. I don't do fuses, switches and so on.

 

[crunchie_frog]

In regards to replacing the fuel filter, what is the best way to properly depressurize the fuel system? I've seen a number of videos on youtube, but each one has a different way of doing it. Some flip the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel, some take out the fuel pump relay, and some say you just have to open the gas cap. Either way, removing the fuel pump relay and taking off the gas cap seems like a safe bet. I'm assuming it's good to start the vehicle as well and let it die for extra measure. Just don't want to get a gasoline shower like some have experienced. Thanks.

Even if you depressurize the fuel line and let the engine die, like you should, you will get gasoline coming out when you disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel lines. Gravity applies to the remaining fuel in the lines and filter, be prepared.

 

[bluepaint98]

gas and power steering fluid don't matter to the levels and wont get air in your system

You still should bleed the lines of any air. After you add the fluid, start vehicle with the power steering fluid cap off. Slowly turn right and left twice. Have someone place the cap on after that. Sometimes while turning the steering wheel, you can see bubbles of air "boil" up. Hopefully that helps

 

[funfool]

To me 116k miles sounds like it is just getting broken in.
I just bought a used 1998 sport, is obvious the previous owner took care of it.
It has 190k miles on it and runs drives great. Of course I have a post below and a issue with some bearing somewhere.

To be honest, I have always been a ford fan.
But if you check out the market, see what a 1999 ford explorer is selling for, dont forget you have lower miles then most of them.
Add up the price of the repairs, toss it around in your mind, if you really want to hang on to the vehicle.
Most people enjoy selling the older vehicle and moving to something newer.
Which are you?

The repairs currently needed, you could let the future owner deal with.
Add the money you would spend on repairs, plus what you sell yours for, buy a newer explorer.

My last rig I owned for 11 years, getting ready to send it to the wrecking yard next week.
If not for the 8mpg gas issue of a full size ford van, I would fix the trans and keep it.
I like to keep mine because I know what work has been done and where I stand with it.
I hate the cheap chinese auto parts they sell today, but I always buy the lifetime warranty parts from autozone and for me it pays off, since most do not keep vehicles for long. And this does keep the cost down on replacement parts like starters and alternators, brakes etc...
Good luck and happy fording

 

[aberrant]

So, a little update here. I decided to go ahead with the repairs, since I am fond of the truck.

1. With a new battery installed, I'm not having any trouble starting the vehicle. It has started up great every time so far. I should also mention that I replaced the fuel filter which could have helped.

2. The other day I had a friend sit on the back with me and the air ride compressor kicked on and started lifting the truck. Guess it's working fine, I just didn't have enough weight or load in the back to have it kick in.

3. The clunking from the front end turned out to be worn ball joints, both upper and lower, as well as outer tie rod ends. I replaced both upper and lower ball joints on both sides as well as the outer tie rod ends. I'm still getting a slight clunk from the passenger side, but it is much much better than it was before. Any thoughts on what else could be loose? I checked the shock mounts and those seem fine. The clunk is intermittent and not very pronounced, but it is there. Had a shop look at, but they could not reproduce the noise.

4. The steering wheel noise turned out to be coming from where the steering column meets the rubber boot in the firewall. A little silicone spray lubricant, and no more squeak! Quick, cheap fix.

I've also installed a new air filter, and did a fluid and filter change on the transmission. However, I notice the truck is vibrating quite a bit when at idle in drive. If I put it in neutral, it seems to quiet down. I'm not sure if this was present before the transmission fluid change, but I believe it was. The vibration is pretty strong in that I can feel it through the pedals, steering wheel, and floor. I've heard these V6's are known to vibrate, but should I be checking anything else here? Maybe plugs and wires?

Thanks for the help.

 

[swshawaii]

3. The clunking from the front end turned out to be worn ball joints, both upper and lower, as well as outer tie rod ends. I replaced both upper and lower ball joints on both sides as well as the outer tie rod ends. I'm still getting a slight clunk from the passenger side, but it is much much better than it was before. Any thoughts on what else could be loose? I checked the shock mounts and those seem fine. The clunk is intermittent and not very pronounced, but it is there. Had a shop look at, but they could not reproduce the noise.

Sway bar end links checked? Probably the single most common failure with these suspensions.
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

Also check the brake caliper brackets, upper control arm bolts, and REAR sway bar end links.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192818

 

[aberrant]

Sway bar end links checked? Probably the single most common failure with these suspensions.
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

Also check the brake caliper brackets, upper control arm bolts, and REAR sway bar end links.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192818

Thanks. Will check those out.