A/C Not working (leaking?)

[DeliciousKeki]

My A/C entirely does not work, I have no idea if it's trying to work or not, there is leaking going on around the right side hose attachment on the A/C condenser. I've never done any work on an air conditioning system before and have no idea what is supposed to look/sound like what. The stuff leaking is brown/black and makes about a 1-2 inch diameter puddle everytime I get home and park it.

 

[natenkiki2004]

That's about the color ooze that came out of my evap coil when I removed it. It can get expensive to start replacing parts, pressure testing and overhauling the system.

 

[Number4]

You could go to a shop and have them check your pressures. $30-$40.
Or buy a manifold set from harbor freight $49-$59 and watch a bunch of videos.

 

[larrydd999]

I'm about to rebuild my A/C on my '94. You have the obvious choice of digging in and doing it yourself or taking it to someone else. You (and I) do have the advantage of having R134a refrigerant in your system. If it was R12, like in the earlier years, your choices would be somewhat different and more limited. I enjoy working (not too often) on our GEN 1's so A/C is just another chance for me to learn and save money. Even if you have to replace the compressor, filter/dryer, etc., it's much less expensive - including the cost of the gauge set, etc. - than having someone else do it. There are many forums on auto air conditioning systems so you might want to start looking then decide if you want to tackle the job.

 

[cogs]

don't forget the orifice tube replace. if you don't run your a/c, then you can get a shorter belt to omit the compressor from the belt loop. with a dirty system, your compressor may ruin. if you diy, you may waste a lot of time going back and forth discharging/charging with leaks.

 

[larrydd999]

Update: I just ordered a new compressor for my system. I purchased the '94 about 3.5 years ago with the A/C not working, so am assuming the worst and replacing the compressor, filter/dryer, orifice tube, and evaporator. I also purchased a pressure can of cleaner and intend to disassemble the system to clean the rest of the parts and replace the o-rings. If someone has a suggestion for anything else that needs to be done (obviously before recharging I'll pressure test and pull a vacuum, etc.) please jump in. I've 'topped off' my other systems a couple of times, but this is my first complete rebuild and I want it to last.

 

[Number4]

Get the AC manifold gauge set from Harbor Freight. It's $59 most days, but well worth it. Especially for DIY'rs.

 

[larrydd999]

Thanks, Number4. I have a gauge set for both R12 and R134, and of course a vacuum pump.

 

[joecrna]

If you are replacing the other stuff, you might as well replace the condenser too. Flush the hoses with cleaner. That's pretty much it.

 

[mekelly]

Hose

You can't really flush the high pressure hose because of the hose muffler. In a perfect world, you'd replace that hose as well (good price at Rockauto).

You don't have to replace it unless your system is really contaminated and/or the compressor catastrophically failed.

I have a '94 and just did some work on my A/C. The compressor hadn't failed but there were several leaks. I replaced all of the o-rings (Advanced Auto has a complete packaged set for about $10), the accumulator, and the orifice tube. Replaced the oil from the accumulator, drew a vacuum for an hour and put in 2 cans (24oz. of r-134a).

Debated about whether to flush it but the orifice tube looked pretty good. No metal particles, oil was just slightly dark and it wasn't clogged at all.

It now blows 38-40 on and 85 degree day!

 

[joecrna]

Didn't know the high pressure hose can't be flushed but then I've never worked on a first Gen Explorer. The "muffler" you referred to, is it a thump tube or something else. Those are usually out of the line of the actual flow path for the hose.

 

[mekelly]

As I understand it, it's a baffle to reduce vibration in the lines. Because of the baffling, it's supposed to be very difficult to flush it. The solvent and the junk get hung up and can't be removed (or at least that's the theory).

I don't think I'd worry about it unless again, you had a catastrophic compressor failure or your oil is so contaminated with water and junk that the whole system needs to be flushed.

Pull your orifice tube first and that will give you a very good indication of what shape your system is in.

When I did mine, the old orifice tube looked good so I elected not to replace the evaporator or condenser or flush the system. It's working great (of course your mileage may vary as each system is obviously unique).

If you don't mind spending the money and want to dig in to a full A/C rebuild, I'd replace everything; high pressure hose, evaporator, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, o-rings, liquid line, compressor, etc. I think when I priced everything at Rockauto it was under $500 for the parts.

You probably don't need all that, but you'd have a brand new system! I elected not to do that, because I figured worst case, if I needed to replace something later (say a condenser), the system only takes 24oz. of refrigerant. In the future, I can repair the system if I have to for only the cost of the part, a little time, and $20-$25 worth of refrigerant (although any time the system is opened up, you should replace the accumulator which is $25 at Rockauto.

 

[joecrna]

Do you happen to know when Ford converted the Explorer to R 134a?

 

[mekelly]

I am pretty sure it was the 1994 model.

 

[Number4]

My '94 has r134a.

Look how old these cars are. Why put money into the AC system and leave the OE hoses?