A/C problems I don't think its the blend door..what else is there??

[Lud97]

I've had hot air on max a/c setting. I looked at the forums especially at the blend door fix. I pulled out the actuator and it works fine when moving the temp dial. Now without cutting into the plenum, I am able to get my finger on the top edge of blend door that sticks out through top of plenum (where actuator connects into top hinge of door) and turn the door shut (can hear a thud when it shuts). In this position the door is all the way to the passenger side. I can also open the door toward the driver side. Now before I had hot air on max cool setting. When I open the door as far as I can it just feels like the outside summer air but not cold at all. How far does the door open??

I checked the pressure on the low pressure side and it seems to have plenty of freon. I checked fuse #18 by the steering wheel. When A/c is on the tach does move a little lower suggesting the compressor is on. I want to figure out everything I can before I pay money into this.

What else is there?

 

[DaExplorer]

I checked the pressure on the low pressure side and it seems to have plenty of freon. I checked fuse #18 by the steering wheel. When A/c is on the tach does move a little lower suggesting the compressor is on. I want to figure out everything I can before I pay money into this.

What else is there?

Just to make sure we are sure your compressor is on, Open the hood with the ac on and engine running look to see that the clutch is spinning and not stopped. Included photos 1. is spinning, 2. clutch is stopped.
If clutch is working/spinning see if the accumulator is getting cold. My 3rd photo is showing condensation forming. If so then the issue is inside the cab somewhere. If not then the issue is somewhere in the closed system, maybe a clogged orifice tube.

Hope this helps, keep us posted,

 

[Lud97]

Thanks! I can see with the A/C on my clutch looks like pic 2. The belt moves freely around the wheel and the wheel spins but the outside of the wheel does not spin like pic 1. So what does that mean? New A/C compressor or just a new clutch and do I need to open the system?

 

[DaExplorer]

Try jumping the pressure switch (photo attached) The compressor clutch should engage. If so again see if the accumulator gets cold. If so then you may just be low on R134a. Fyi when checking the low pressure the clutch on the compressor needs to be running.

Keep us posted.

 

[Lud97]

Thanks for all the help so far. I used the paper clip and I can now hear and see the compressor running! So from what you said I need to add freon because when I read it before the clutch was not engaged giving me a false reading in the green area on the dummy gauge. Guess I've always had a running a/c clutch when I've checked freon on my other rigs. So I will try filling it again and let you know what's going on. What does the psi need to be...45 or so??

 

[Vic_Ferrari2002]

The PSI will depend on the ambient (outside) air temp. The desired pressure should be between 35-45 psi. when you buy a can of R134 to recharge your freon get one with the gauge attached if you don't already have one. the back of the can will tell you where you wanna be with the ambient air temp and you can go from there.

 

[Lud97]

I ran out of hours in the day to do this, I will do it tomorrow and let you know. Another thing I noticed...inside the a/c pressure switch connector I think one of the pins broke off. I need to take a look at that and let you know too.

 

[SoNic67]

Maybe the pressure is OK, but the switch is broken...

 

[Lud97]

Fixed the pin in the switch. Read the pressure which was now low with the compressor on. Added freon and the ac is now ice cold! Thanks guys. Ill see if it leaks out or not but for now its finally working. This free rig I got is getting better all the time. Now I just have a dash light bulb to fix.

 

[DaExplorer]

Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for the update.

 

[Lud97]

Spoke too soon. Today I went to try it and I'm certain there is a leak of freon somewhere. The compressor clutch is kicking on and off and the pressure is down. What should I do to find the leak? Is there a dye I can use. Also, I'm pretty sure the low pressure fitting itself is leaking too. What can I do about that??

 

[tregare]

Spoke too soon. Today I went to try it and I'm certain there is a leak of freon somewhere. The compressor clutch is kicking on and off and the pressure is down. What should I do to find the leak? Is there a dye I can use. Also, I'm pretty sure the low pressure fitting itself is leaking too. What can I do about that??

Yes, there is a dye you can get, most auto parts stores have a charge can with a UV dye in it, it is the simplest to use. if you think that your low pressure fitting is leaking you can get a can of the lubricant meant to use with an injector into the A/C system and pour a little bit into the low pressure fitting itself. if you get bubbles, you have a leak.

Oreilly auto has a repair kit for the high and low ports that comes with new caps, 2 new schrader valves and new caps, runs around $4.

if you have an actual leak in the system, I recommend adding some lubricant to the system as you have undoubtedly lost some, depending on the year of your ford you have one of the PAG lubricants in it, there is PAG 46,100 and 150 IIRC. get one of the cans with 1 to 1 1/2 ounce of lubricant and and 1-2 oz of refrigerant, do NOT follow the directions on the can as you won't get all the lube into your system, shake it up some and make sure the can is warm, then connect it to the fill hose, holding it upside down, twist the knob and pierce the can (after connecting to the low side service port) you need to have your truck running and AC on MAX AC. hold the can with both hands to keep it warm and tilt back and forth from 10 o clock to 2 oclock position. you want to make sure to get as much of hte lubricant into the system as possible. this can take up to 5 or 10 minutes on a cool day.

I personally don't use the cheap fill hoses, i'm auto A/C certified so I picked up a good R134a gauge set and a bulk 20 lb cylinder of r134a.

you want to make sure that with the A/C running you are around 40 to 50 PSI on the low side. if you have a gauge set the hi side should be above 100 psi, i usually shoot for 120 ish psi sometimes higher if the system calls for it. at 40 to 50 psi on the low side when you shut the car off or the AC off the pressure is going to climb to around 70-80 psi or so. if you fill to 50 psi with AC off then you are still low pressure wise.

if you get the UV dye you will also need a uv light and yellow uv sensitive glasses.

 

[Lud97]

Took a while to get back to you all. I don't need the dye, as I can clearly see condensation form on the copper hose the runs under the accumulator into a box of some type. Is there a seal where the tubing meets that box?

 

[tregare]

Took a while to get back to you all. I don't need the dye, as I can clearly see condensation form on the copper hose the runs under the accumulator into a box of some type. Is there a seal where the tubing meets that box?

any place that any of the A/C tubing connects together and is dis-connectable there will be a seal. most of them are o-rings and will most likely be nitrile IIRC.

if it is just condensation then it might not be a leak. you are going to get condensation on any of the low pressure lines as the refrigerant cools when expanded from the compressed state.

BTW: it is possible to get pinhole leaks on your metal lines as well as the rubber hoses. that's where the dye comes in handy, also a halogen detector, I have one of those also, it detects halogen gases (R-12, 22, 134 and a couple others that i don't remember off the top of my head)

 

[Lud97]

Ok I'll get some dye and try to find the leak. I'll post with what I find.