A rear disc brake conversion

[Blacksheep Josh]

For a long time I've looked at the following thread:

http://www.explorer4x4.com/discswap.html

I've always been interested in doing this but have always lacked the resources (money) to do it.

I think I've come up with a cheaper (but still as effective) to do this swap.. May not seem the most logical, but it would allow me to do it over time and let me keep the explorer as a Daily Driver while the 'swap' is taking place.

In essence, I'll be doing this:

http://www.explorer4x4.com/discrear.html

I can get the rear end from a second generation explorer and all the components with it at the local Pull-A-Part pretty cheap, by looking at the price list on their website, it'll be around 100$ if it's the "REAR END (DISC BRAKE TYPE COMPLETE)". That's just the price for the rear end/axle. Not including extra parts later on.

My plan is that I'll be working my Summer job again, so money will be a little more available, I think I can buy the rear end and perch it in my garage. Over a month or two I can work on making sure it's safe and usable. I'll also be changing the rotors out, rebuilding the calipers and anything else that's needed. Then after that's done, my friend and I can 'simply' swap out the rear end, so if anything does arise and it won't work we can reinstall the old rear end.

Suggestions appreciated, but I think this will work out pretty good.

I'll have an extra set of gears to!

-Joshua

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

anything anyone?

 

[seth247]

sorry I know nothing about weather it'l work man but I remeber someone had a longer thread about this somewere

I'm
courious what you'll do with the ebrake does the 2nd gen have one that'll adapt to your?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

sorry I know nothing about weather it'l work man but I remeber someone had a longer thread about this somewere

I'm
courious what you'll do with the ebrake does the 2nd gen have one that'll adapt to your?

yeah, i'll just need a longer intermediate cable i believe.

 

[seth247]

yeah I think that's what I remember hearing.

 

[seth247]

another thing you might want to consider is a brake bias adjuster but I don't think you'll need it.

 

[91exploreron37]

Do the hydraulic lines hook up the same way? And what about abs?

 

[James909]

I actually just finished doing this swap to my 92. It really wasn't too bad of a swap it took me about 2 days to complete after I got the new rear end set up. But I was working very slowly and carefully, also I was by myself most of the time. I can say that you will definitely be pleased with the brakes after the swap, they are significantly more powerful than the drums. I'm not sure what your set up is but mine is the stock SUA and I think the hardest part of the swap was just lifting the axle onto the springs, I had my dad help me but the rear end was much heavier than I thought. Also if your truck is SUA, remove the shocks before you try to take the old rear end off. I tried to work around the shocks and it was much more work than just removing the 4 bolts holding the top of the shocks on. And I ended up removing them anyway, so save yourself the trouble and remove them before lifting the old rear end off the springs. Now everything is hooked up and working perfectly, except the parking brake. That is just not hooked up though because I haven't found a junkyard willing to pull the intermediate cable for me and the dealer made the part obsolete. So I just have the parking brake cables zip tied out of the way and am running without the parking brake for now. I do plan to get the parking brake hooked up though and don't foresee much of a problem. Also I found that my old lug nuts didn't fit on the new rear end, the studs seemed slightly bigger. So try to get a new rear end with lug nuts on it.

Do the hydraulic lines hook up the same way? And what about abs?

The abs is very straight forward as long as it's working in the replacement rear end. The connection for the speed sensor is the same so you simply plug it into the new rear end. The brake lines are a little trickier. The junction block on the new rear end is on the driver's side rather than in the center like on the old rear end. For me this was easy to deal with because my replacement axle had all the brake lines still attached so I just attached the rubber hose to the connection on the frame. So try to get one with the hard lines still in place. If not you may have to bend new hard lines. You said that you are going to rebuild the calipers and replace the rotors. This is definitely a good idea. However if you want to just bolt up the axle and see if there is any problems the brakes are easy enough to work on the truck. This is what I did and got lucky that I had no problems. The brake system would work best if you replaced the master cylinder with one from a disc/disc setup. I don't think this is really necessary though because I was able to adjust the master cylinder and get it very close to perfect. You definitely have to at least adjust it though otherwise the pedal will be very low.

Overall it is a pretty straightforward swap although very time consuming. If you want I can get a few pics tomorrow of the finished setup. If you have any questions I will do my best to help, either post here or send me a pm.
-James

 

[91exploreron37]

So it does seem like a pretty straight foward swap. How do you adjust the master cylinder?

 

[James909]

First remove the master cylinder from the brake booster, there is one nut holding a bracket supporting the brake lines and then 2 nuts holding the actual master cylinder to the brake booster. Then pull the master cylinder away from the brake booster without disconnecting the brake lines. You are actually going to adjust the push rod that applies pressure to the master cylinder, not the master itself. Once the master is pulled away from the brake booster you will see the push rod that comes through the brake booster. In order to adjust it hold the push rod (I think an open end wrench would fit on it but I just used pliers, it's not hard to turn) then use a wrench to back off the adjuster on the end (I think it was a 7mm). The goal here is to get the push rod to rest farther into the master. So just back off this adjustment until the pedal feels OK, but be sure not to adjust it too far or the brakes will drag all the time. I adjusted it until when I put the master back on I could feel the push rod applying the slightest pressure into the master while at rest. Unfortunately it is pretty much trial and error and is a bit of a pain, I had to take the master on and off a few times before I got it right but the pedal will feel much better after it's done. Also I found that a racheting wrench really helped to speed up the removal of the master cylinder because it is a little tight around the nuts that hold it on.

 

[SMexplorer92]

im doing the same thing right now once i get my locker in and set up the 4.56's i got, its going under the truck.

 

[91exploreron37]

What size tires you plannin on running?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Me or SM? I'm planning on running a stock tire size, lowering 2/3 in the summer. Just for a lower, more sporty look.

 

[91exploreron37]

Oh sorry I was talking to SM