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Abs code b1483

DjDom

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Hey everyone,

I finally pulled an ABS code after having the light on for like 2 years.
A mechanic told me a year ago that it was a failure in the front left hub, and the hub had to be replaced.
Well, the hub is fine so i didn't do it.

Anyway, I finally pulled the code B1483 which is a "Brake Switch Circuit Input Failure."

Does anyone have any idea what exactly it is and how to fix it? I'd like my ABS back. I ended up sideways this winter cause of it.

Thanks.
 



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Hey everyone,

I finally pulled an ABS code after having the light on for like 2 years.
A mechanic told me a year ago that it was a failure in the front left hub, and the hub had to be replaced.
Well, the hub is fine so i didn't do it.

Anyway, I finally pulled the code B1483 which is a "Brake Switch Circuit Input Failure."

Does anyone have any idea what exactly it is and how to fix it? I'd like my ABS back. I ended up sideways this winter cause of it.

Thanks.

I had mine come on the other day, and I did not have the scanner to pull the code, but the easiest thing to check is the sensors with a voltmeter.

The front sensors are easy. If you follow the wire harness, they get plugged into a connector almost behind the fog light on each side. Just unplug the connector and use an ohmeter to check resistance. they should be about .27-.38 Kohm.
Alternatively, you can use a voltmeter connected to the sensor and lift up the front wheels, and turn by hand. This should produce a voltage as the exciter ring in the hub induces voltage on the sensor coil. If you do not see any voltage, then the sensor could be bad.

The rear sensor, which is directly on top of the rear diff, is suppose to be about .8 and 2 kohms.

If the resistances look ok, then something else is wrong.
 






I had mine come on the other day, and I did not have the scanner to pull the code, but the easiest thing to check is the sensors with a voltmeter.

The front sensors are easy. If you follow the wire harness, they get plugged into a connector almost behind the fog light on each side. Just unplug the connector and use an ohmeter to check resistance. they should be about .27-.38 Kohm.
Alternatively, you can use a voltmeter connected to the sensor and lift up the front wheels, and turn by hand. This should produce a voltage as the exciter ring in the hub induces voltage on the sensor coil. If you do not see any voltage, then the sensor could be bad.

The rear sensor, which is directly on top of the rear diff, is suppose to be about .8 and 2 kohms.

If the resistances look ok, then something else is wrong.

I'll check that tomorrow, but I doubt that's the issue.
No idea what this switch is though.
 






I'll check that tomorrow, but I doubt that's the issue.
No idea what this switch is though.

I have an old Chiltons book, and it lists the service codes for the ABS up to 99 Explorers, and I do not see B1483 anywhere on the list. It could be not every code was put in the Chiltons book, but you never know, maybe the mechanic was pulling your leg.

If it was a brake switch circuit failure, I would think it has to do with the brake pedal switch and not the front hub.

I just did a quick search of B1483, and it looks as if its a EEC code, not an ABS code. It is for Brake Switch circuit failure, but it appears it has to do with the GEM, not ABS.
It's been known that the rear sensor goes first. Its called the VSS (Vehicle Speed sensor). I just changed mine the other day. It was open resistance. Picked up a new one at Auto Zone for $15, fixed the problem.
 






I have an old Chiltons book, and it lists the service codes for the ABS up to 99 Explorers, and I do not see B1483 anywhere on the list. It could be not every code was put in the Chiltons book, but you never know, maybe the mechanic was pulling your leg.

If it was a brake switch circuit failure, I would think it has to do with the brake pedal switch and not the front hub.

I just did a quick search of B1483, and it looks as if its a EEC code, not an ABS code. It is for Brake Switch circuit failure, but it appears it has to do with the GEM, not ABS.
It's been known that the rear sensor goes first. Its called the VSS (Vehicle Speed sensor). I just changed mine the other day. It was open resistance. Picked up a new one at Auto Zone for $15, fixed the problem.

I'm gonna go out and check resistance in the sensors today.
I don't think they're bad, because the abs light doesn't turn on when I start the car, it only turns on once the vehicle starts moving a certain speed and I press the brakes. Then I feel the ABS pump go on. I know the pump is ok.
And, that's the only code the truck gave me.
And, I know the mechanic was 'pulling my leg.' Changing the hub would've made him $150.
 






OHMs/Volts in the Sensors are OK.
So, bump ~
 






I don't know what to suggest at this point since I never went past the sensors. I'll try to scan the Chiltons page with all the codes, some of them which state that occur when driving.
 






I don't know what to suggest at this point since I never went past the sensors. I'll try to scan the Chiltons page with all the codes, some of them which state that occur when driving.

It's odd, because the problem all started a while back where the ABS would kick in at every possible stop.
Then it finally decided to quit.
I still feel as though the sensor is dirty in the front left hub, even though it's a sealed hub.

However, I still don't know what this brake switch thing is.
 






Hope this helps:

scan0003.jpg
 






Hope this helps:

scan0003.jpg

Ok, that makes sense. it does turn on at about 19 KM/h.
So, it's a comparison fault. Now to check which one..
 






Ok, that makes sense. it does turn on at about 19 KM/h.
So, it's a comparison fault. Now to check which one..

Not sure what that exactly means, but could it mean the exciter rings are bad, giving false readings?

You mentioned the sensors are sealed in the hubs, thats actually not 100% true, they are bolted on the outside of the hub. They could let foreign debris in if the o-ring is bad. You can try removing them and cleaning them.

The VSS sensor actually could be the most likely culprit since it is in the rear axle and does get Axle fluid on it, plus because its a magnet it does attract the metal particles from the axle gears.
If I were to take a chance on replacing a part, I would try that first, its only $15 at AutoZone. Just try to see if you can remove it first. If its been in there for a while, it will be a pain. I removed my spare tire to get at it better.
 






I just thought of something, not sure if this will work, but you can give it a shot.

With the car running and in park ( or have a buddy put car in gear and stepping on the brakes with e-brake on for caution), raise the front wheels and turn each one by hand fast enough to go 12MPH and see if the light comes on.

For the rear axle, raise both wheels and turn by hand. DO NOT ATTEMPT to put car in drive and spin the rear wheels! I don't know how the 4X4 Auto works, but it might sense the rear wheels slipping, and will engage the front wheels to turn.
 






I just thought of something, not sure if this will work, but you can give it a shot.

With the car running and in park ( or have a buddy put car in gear and stepping on the brakes with e-brake on for caution), raise the front wheels and turn each one by hand fast enough to go 12MPH and see if the light comes on.

For the rear axle, raise both wheels and turn by hand. DO NOT ATTEMPT to put car in drive and spin the rear wheels! I don't know how the 4X4 Auto works, but it might sense the rear wheels slipping, and will engage the front wheels to turn.

I'm probably gonna take out the sensors and try that.
I'll tell you how it goes.
Does anyone else have input as to what this code may be?
 






Bump, still can't find the problem.
 






Bump, still can't find the problem.

Did you remove the sensors and inspect them for debris and clean them?

A comparison fault could be caused by a couple of things like dirty/defective sensors not getting the correct reading from the ring, or although unlikely, a defective ring (missing a tooth). The resistances of the sensors could be fine, but as the vehicle starts moving, and when the ABS is getting readings from the 3 sensors it compares voltages , and if its off, it will throw the code.

Also wrong size tires can set it off.

The majority of ABS light issues on this forum was fixed by replacing the VSS. I am in no way telling you to go out and buy one, but if it was my truck, I would take a chance and spend $15 and see what happens.
 






Also if you remove the front sensors, you may want to try blowing compressed air in the hubs to clean the rings, and rotate the hubs while doing this. I saw some suggestions for this. Who knows, maybe your mechanic was right, it could be you may have a defective ring in one of the hubs.
A couple of people here mentioned Advanced Auto has the ABS scanner and will scan codes for free, but I know the one where I live does not have one. Its possible in your neck of the woods a store would have a scanner.
 






Also if you remove the front sensors, you may want to try blowing compressed air in the hubs to clean the rings, and rotate the hubs while doing this. I saw some suggestions for this. Who knows, maybe your mechanic was right, it could be you may have a defective ring in one of the hubs.
A couple of people here mentioned Advanced Auto has the ABS scanner and will scan codes for free, but I know the one where I live does not have one. Its possible in your neck of the woods a store would have a scanner.

I do have a scanner, and that's the only code on there. ;)

And, I'll try cleaning it when it gets warmer outside. Right now, it's too cold.

I still feel as though it's a voltage problem somewhere.
And, the rear ABS sensor here costs like $60..
 













Car parts in Canada are extremely over priced..
If I make a purchase of more than $80 and it's not an emergency part, I usually get it shipped from the States. Still works out cheaper after boarder fees and shipping than buying local..

Anyway, I'm gonna go out and see if I can find a cheaper price for that sensor.

Replacing it is just a matter of unplugging the harness and unscrewing it, I assume?
 



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