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ABS light on! help!!

07-22-2005, 02:18 PM
Yes, when the ABS sensor coil or the wiring is open, the ABS light would come on. If it is the front one that is open, you should clean the mounting surface with a wire brush and put high temp grease on it before putting the new sensor on. That would eliminate the low speed false triggering of the ABS brake system.

I had false trigger of the ABS brakes just before a complete stop on dry surface with both of my trucks. Cleaning the mounting surface fixed the problem.


This is the post I was referring to, the same exact thing happened with my '97. I was thinking the wire brushing and grease might have something to do with the signal instead of just facilitating the ease of future disassembly. I really don't want to go there with the front end. I don't even care about the ABS, I don't even like ABS, I think it may be good for people who don't drive very often or very well. I got by for a long time without it and have had a very negative experience with it that almost killed me and who ever I would've hit had I not taken the snowbank instead. I think I'd rather spend the time taking that bulb out of the instrument panel. Will I still pass inspection without ABS? If I do keep it - are those sensor resistance specs good for a '97?
 



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Most states that mandate annual inspections won't pass a vehicle with the ABS light on - some won't even pass one with the check engine light on.
 






That brings me back to my idea of removing the bulb at the instrument panel.
 






Is anyone besides some corporate lawyer at ford thrilled by anti-lock brakes? Anyone besides me have any bad experiences? - or good ones? I asked a "real" mechanic years ago after my near death experience what I could do and his advise was pull the fuse. When I step on the brakes, I want brakes, I don't want some abs module telling me "sorry, no brakes now, too slippery! I'll decide for myself how hard I'll step on the brakes and when. I'm sure it's one of those things that looks good on paper, it just doesn't work in real life.
 






I think one of the things checked are the warning/failure lights on the instrument panel. Don't they all light up when you first turn the key on?
 






Yeah, I think they're supposed to,- you mean the inspectors might check the bulbs?
 






Most places don't make much on state inspections and probably would not look for that particular problem they are more interested in odvious things. I once had an Aztek whose ABS light did not work and it passed inspections in WV where they won't pass a vehicle with the light on. The dashboards today are not as simple as they used to be and the warning lights in most cases are either small lamps or LEDs that are soldered on to a printed circuit board - don't ask how I know. The best way to disable the lamp is to sever the foil trace going to it but do so in such a way that it could be reconnected if you sell the vehicle. Reason being if there were an accident and it was discovered that the light had been disabled on purpose it is EXTREMELY likley that an individual or insurance company would bring suit against the former owner. It is unlikley such tampering would be discovered and you could always say it must have been that way when you bought it however that defense would not prevent legal action against you which would cost THOUSANDS win or lose. If you decide to pull the insturment panel beware of the airbag which might go off unless disabled. Also there may be state laws making it a criminal offense to disable warning lights. Personally I think as long as the brakes work and the vehicle is in a safe condition it should not matter what lights are on.
 






Thanks, good points, just so it passes.
 






thanks for all the good advise. it was actully the rear sensor. this is not easy to get to but befor u replace it i drained the rear diff and cleaned it out i was told to do this from a break tech. he said the crap in the diff will mess up the sensor shavings from the gears stick to the sensor magnet and trips the light
 






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