Ac compressor

[mjbjr25]

So mine is knocking really bad and no longer cools. I can't afford to fix it and its winter time. Can I unplug it or something to stop it from making this noise.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You can likely unplug it at the compressor, but you can also 'short belt' it by getting a serpentine belt for a non-ac truck of the same motor. If it only makes the sound when running ( ac compressor runs in all positions, except feet only, hot or cold I believe) you can remove the plug.

 

[mjbjr25]

Unplug as in a power plug? I do see a non ac belt but I'm not able to get it to my mechanic for a couple of weeks. That's why I'm in a bind.

 

[Mbrooks420]

There should be a plug right on the compressor. With a single wrench changing out the belt is rather basic. You could probably talk an auto store employee into doing it for $20, or take it to an muffler and brake place like Midas or Monroe.

 

[CDW6212R]

Check to see when it makes the noise, pop the hood and watch it, with the AC on. If it makes the noise just when the clutch is running(you'll see it change), then it's the clutch and unplugging it will stop that.

If the noise is constant, then the compressor is causing the noise, unless it's another accessory or pulley. Be sure to track down the noise, the idler pulleys are most common, then the alternator, water pump, PS pump, and lastly the AC clutch or compressor.

FYI, the AC compressor should run at all times except when the main control is on VENT, or OFF.

 

[mjbjr25]

Sorry for the delay in responding,work is crazy busy. I have unplugged the compressor and it still knocks very loudly. I can also smell a burning smell coming from it. I am probably gonna just buy the bypass and install it and just deal without ac

 

[koda2000]

Sorry for the delay in responding,work is crazy busy. I have unplugged the compressor and it still knocks very loudly. I can also smell a burning smell coming from it. I am probably gonna just buy the bypass and install it and just deal without ac

If it's unplugged the compressor itself isn't the problem. It's the AC clutch bearing. You can either replace the clutch or use a shorter serpentine belt and bypass the compressor. Don't ignore it, because the clutch will eventually come apart and do major damage under the hood. What you're probably smelling is the serpentine belt burning or the remaining grease from the AC clutch burning. There are threads that give the part number for a shorter serpentine belt. Try searching.

I don't see where you say what engine you have, but I found the below post for the 5.0L V8. The poster found an 83.5" belt worked to bypass his AC compressor. If you have a V6 keep searching...

"I went ahead and bought the shorter belt and just put it on. The correct route is the same as the stock belt but you skip the a/c compressor pulley. Once you look at the stock route its self explainatory on how to route the shorter belt. Duralast 835K6 is the correct belt for the 5.0 engine. $16.99 at Autozone."

 

[Mbrooks420]

........I am probably gonna just buy the bypass and install it and just deal without ac

He's planning on grabbing the short belt. Did these Explorers not come without AC?

 

[koda2000]

He's planning on grabbing the short belt. Did these Explorers not come without AC?

I've never seen a Gen II w/out AC. Maybe you could get one w/out AC in the fleet version XLS... ? but I live in GA so everything comes w/AC.

 

[Mbrooks420]

4.0 OHV, or SOHC MOTORCRAFT PN : JK6814J
It doesn’t appear the V8 was offers without it according to a quick search on RockAuto.

 

[mjbjr25]

I tried the belt w/o AC and it was to short. Here is a video of it and you can get a better idea of what it is.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MJzk11ET6NlxxFrm1

 

[Mbrooks420]

How much too short was it? Brand and part number? Looks like the clutch is shot.

 

[koda2000]

JK6814J - That appears to be a 6 rib belt that is 81.4" long. How much longer does it meed to be? The V8 belt is bypass belt 83.5" long, is that too long?

 

[mjbjr25]

I don't remember the part number. It was advance Auto dayco belt. Can I remove that clutch and the belt and pulley stay in place?

 

[koda2000]

I don't remember the part number. It was advance Auto dayco belt. Can I remove that clutch and the belt and pulley stay in place?

The belt's part number tells you the length. Don't ask the guy behind the counter to look it up for you. He wont be able to find the right belt that way.

Yes, the pulley and clutch will remain in place w/out the belt.

 

[Mbrooks420]

No, you won’t be able to remove the clutch and retain the factory belt routing.

 

[koda2000]

No, you won’t be able to remove the clutch and retain the factory belt routing.

OP - if this was your question, then no. Your AC pulley (specially the pulley bearing) is shot. Removing the clutch will not help you to retain the factory belt routing. There is such a thing as an AC bypass pulley, but that's a different conversation and I don't recommend going down that road.

 

[mjbjr25]

OP - if this was your question, then no. Your AC pulley (specially the pulley bearing) is shot. Removing the clutch will not help you to retain the factory belt routing. There is such a thing as an AC bypass pulley, but that's a different conversation and I don't recommend going down that road.

I don't see i have a choice. I can't afford to replace the compressor

 

[koda2000]

I don't see i have a choice. I can't afford to replace the compressor

As said, your choices are to use a shorter belt to bypass the AC compressor pulley or replace the AC clutch assembly (around $80-$100 at Advance on-line using a current coupon code for 20% off on purchases over $100). Sometimes you can replace just the pulley bearing, but I'm pretty sure your pulley is trashed by now.

 

[mjbjr25]

Driveworks V-Ribbed Belt 810K6: Advance Auto Parts

This is the belt that didn't fit. It was a couple inches short with the tensioner pulled back all the way