AC repair ?'s and Pricing | Ford Explorer Forums

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AC repair ?'s and Pricing

97BlackX5.0

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City, State
Scipio, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 X XLT AWD
Okay i have a 97 5.0 that has the infamous rusty accumulator. It finally rusted through as far as i can tell because the compressor cycles on and off very frequently and i dont have any cold air.... I do have the blend door problem and live with it because i can still get air conditioning by turning it to max ac... and heat in the winter... just dont have any control over how cold or how hot... Well im a do it yourselfer that is on a tight budget... I am going to replace the rusty can myself...I ordered it from advance auto for about 40 bucks... I have one of those retrofit kits that i bought from walmart during the winter last year for 2 dollars on clearance.... I know that after i open the system and fix everything i have to get it evacuated.... What is the cheapest way to do this and would it be okay to use the retrofit kit... im not sure if the oil content is okay.. when they evacuate a system does that include taking all the oil out or do i just have to add coolant without the oil in it.... im hoping it was just the rusty can... is there anything else to check while the system is open... the hose that came with the retrofit kit has a guage on it and the system says it takes a certain amount of coolant... I know they have the manifold set that hooks to both high and low side... is there anywhere to rent one of these or would i just be better off having the shop that evacuates it to charge it also.... is there any way to rent/buy a pump to evacuate it myself....
 



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Sadly I have not seen anyplace that rents vacuum pumps. If I were you I'd replace the accumulator and let a shop evacuate and recharge it. The oil should be ok.
 






97BlackX5.0 said:
when they evacuate a system does that include taking all the oil out or do i just have to add coolant without the oil in it.... im hoping it was just the rusty can... is there anything else to check while the system is open... the hose that came with the retrofit kit has a guage on it and the system says it takes a certain amount of coolant... I know they have the manifold set that hooks to both high and low side... is there anywhere to rent one of these or would i just be better off having the shop that evacuates it to charge it also.... is there any way to rent/buy a pump to evacuate it myself....

The only "freebee/cheap" way that I know to have access to tools like that is at a high school/community college. You might get the instructor to help you out.

When a system is evacuated not much oil is removed. I doubt you have a major leak in your a/c system as the compressor still cycles.

Recharge the system and have dye installed if it isn't already in the R134. Look for leaks with a blacklight or sniffer. Could have some bad o-rings or condenser. Just some ideas.
 






Okay i have a 97 5.0 that has the infamous rusty accumulator. It finally rusted through as far as i can tell because the compressor cycles on and off very frequently and i dont have any cold air

From what you have told here, I couldn't say for sure it's a rusted accumulator. Based on my experience it's hard to spot. I had to remove my accumulator, put it in a water bath and pressurize it (with air) checking for bubbles before I could tell I had a pin hole leak and not just surface rust. If I had put more trust in the dye that showed up under black light on the inside of the insulation blanket after it was removed I wouldn't have needed to test it in a water bath.

My compressor wouldn't run at all due to the low pressure cycling switch. This was two weeks after a shop had refilled the system. Since your compressor runs you must have some charge left unless someone has "adjusted" the low pressure cycling switch. I can not advise opening a system while it still has pressure in it.

im not sure if the oil content is okay..

This is what my CD (for '93-'94 Explorers) says about oil content when replacing the accumulator:
Adding Refrigerant Oil


R-134a A/C System

The R-134a A/C system FS-10 compressor uses a unique high-quality refrigerant oil (F2AZ-19577-AA), Motorcraft Part Number YN-12 or an equivalent refrigerant oil meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B. An oil charge of 207 ml (7 oz) is used in a new system. It is extremely important that only the specified type and quantity of refrigerant oil be used in the FS-10 compressor. If there is a surplus of oil in the system, it will circulate with the refrigerant, reducing the cooling capacity of the system. Using too little oil or oil not meeting the Ford specification will result in poor lubrication of the compressor.

When replacing a component of the refrigerant system, the procedures in this section must be followed to make sure that the total oil charge in the system is correct after the new part is installed.

When the compressor is operated, oil gradually leaves the compressor and is circulated through the system with the refrigerant. Eventually, a balanced condition is reached in which a certain amount of oil is retained in the compressor and a certain amount is continually circulated. If a component of the system is removed after the system has been operated, some oil will go with it. To maintain the original total oil charge add oil as required to the new replacement part.

The procedures for replacing oil are as follows:

During Component Replacement

When replacing other components of the air conditioning system, measured quantities of the specified refrigerant oil should be added to the component to make sure that the total oil charge in the system is correct before the system is operated.

Clean refrigerant oil should be poured directly into the replacement components as follows:

l A/C evaporator core (19860): add 90 ml (3 oz).

l A/C condenser core (19712): add 30 ml (1 oz).

l Accumulator: drain oil from removed accumulator/drier. Add same amount plus 60 ml (2 oz) of clean refrigerant oil to new accumulator.

And:

8. Drain the oil from the removed suction accumulator/drier into a suitable measuring container. It may be necessary to drill one or two 1/2-inch holes in the bottom of the old suction accumulator/drier to ensure that all the oil has drained out.

9. Add the same amount of refrigerant oil plus two fluid ounces to the new suction accumulator/drier. Use only the oil specified for the specific vehicle being serviced (Motorcraft YN-12 or equivalent oil containing the same additives).

I know that after i open the system and fix everything i have to get it evacuated.... What is the cheapest way to do this

Since you have pressure in the system you really need to do this BEFORE opening the system. An evacuation shouldn't be too expensive. Before I bought my vacuum pump I had a shop do it when it was in for an alignment. They charged me $18.00 for it. Another place you can try is a junk yard since they are required by law to evacuate all systems they get in.
 






thanks for all your help... i didnt even think it was anything else after reading on this site about the rusty accumulator as mine is really bad.... i have had no other problems prior to this.... reading the part about the oil worrys me as i tried putting one bottle of the retrofit kit in after it stopped working blowing cold air thinking that there wasnt enough refridgerant in it... Since this has the oil premixed with it that means i probably have to much oil in it now.... I will look into getting it evacuated and the uv dye stuff... ive seen it before but have always questioned how good it works....I figure i get it evacuated and then replace the canister i will be taking out enough oil to return it to factory levels... then i should have it evacuated again and recharge with straight 134 ... does this sound like a feasable plan......how do you get all the oil out of the system....i mean evacuating sounded like it would take all the oil and everything out...secondly the switches that turn the compressor on and off have never been adjusted or disconnected... i think there is enough pressure to turn it on but not enough so it trips the low limit switch once there becomes a need for refridgerant.... any diagnoses tips besides the uv dye... i really thought replacing the can would be enough because i live in a climate where we get alot of snow and salt .... figured it had rusted and the extra heat its seen lately just finished it off... again thanks for your help...

i tried taking the blanket off about a year ago but it was so rusted to the can i figured i was probably doing more harm than good....
 






I'd not get all freaked out about the oil charge. Recovering refrigerant will produce some quantity of oil from the refrigerant in which it is dissolved. In a discharged system, pulling a vacuum does not remove any significant amount of oil.... remember this is not vacuuming! It is simply putting the system in a state of vacuum. Yes you probably erred in adding a retrofit can to an existing 134 system, but my bigger worry would have been possible differing oil types more than overall quantity.

My advice? Have the 134 recovered, add the accumulator, button it up and let them evacuate and recharge it. Ask em to add UV Dye. Blacklights are not expensive. You can leak check it in the future if you need to.
 






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