Advice- 98 Eddie Bauer 5.0 whiney differential

[GroupExploder]

Took the V-8 version out on the highway yesterday after getting the front end rebuilt, clear title and such, OK...

Rear howls. At 70 it is howling pretty good back there. Power on it howls goes quiet when you let off the gas.

OK, decision time. Shop will get the EB on Tues. Should I rebuild or risk a used? I have 181k on this model.
If I go for a rebuild, which is what I am leaning towards, what sort of cash outlay am I looking at?
I got to deal with a lack of front driveshaft, lord knows why the PO pulled it. I might hit Pick a Part to get all the small parts, maybe even another shaft.

I like the power the V-8 has, but the display shows 13mpg. I got 25mpg on the 4.0 version last week on a 175 round trip.

Ideas?

Also, if the PO was not stone cold in a grave, I'd yell at him big time. I found the cooling system full of rusty water, (no antifreeze). Opening up the upper and lower radiator hose, I turned a strong water hose to it. The flood of crap that came out the bottom was deplorable.
In fact, straight up ill responsible for any owner.

I hit the heater hose with the same high-pressure water, you should have seen the crap pouring out!

Today I might, just might go get something at the auto parts store to flush or whatever it can do, prior to putting clean anti-freeze back in.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

On your differential, if you jack the car up and get one of the rear tires off the ground, then take your hand and grab the yoke going into the dif., you might find that it will move in and out, and up and down, this will tell your that the bearing under the pinion gear is bad. Mind you the movement might even barely noticeable, even a few thousands of an inch is enough to make noise.

 

[GroupExploder]

Yup got some play, so rebuild it? I guess having a lock tight rear diff would alleviate any worry when hauling the boat up to the lake, with the foot 2/3's of the way to the floor.

General thought? If it IS the bearing, can the bearing just be replaced without pulling the whole mess out of the banjo? Can we just pull the yoke, replace the seals and bearing,,,,,,?

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

If the ring and pinion are not damaged, you could get by by installing new pinion bearings and races with a new seal, crush collar and nut, however, proper pinion depth will have to be reestablished.
Might be easier and cheaper to find a whole "good used" diff from a salvage yard.

 

[GroupExploder]

Did a removal, O'Riely got me a 114k used one out of Idaho for $400 shipped. WE tossed the idea around to have it rebuilt. The parts alone were $250+-.
Not that I am cheaping things out, I'm not sure if having a rebuilt one vs the used once would be cost-effective.

So, used.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Sweet deal! Sounds like your good to go!

 

[GLOCKer]

I'm worried about this issue with my 1998 Limited model. While I can afford $400, my wife would be VERY displeased as she didn't want a third vehicle in he driveway and on the insurance. I'm hoping my ring and pinion are serviceable and that whatever needs replaced is somewhat inexpensive. I have a couple people that can help me do things like change the bearings.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

If it makes noise when you add power (most crucial point of r&p contact), then chances are the wear pattern on the r&p are now always going to make noise even with good bearings. I all boils down to how much wear is on the "load" side of the gears.