Aerostar headlight switch replacement. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Aerostar headlight switch replacement.

DoOver

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 15, 2008
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City, State
Catskill Mountains Of New York
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Loaded Long Wagon E4WD
Hello,
My head lights just started going off. I smell plastic burning and they just go off. I don't think it is a short because the head lights are not blinking. When I shut them off and turn them back on, the head lights come back on. So I think it is a bad head light switch. How had is it to change? Do I have to remove the gauge panel to get to it? I know about pushing the button on the switch to remove the knob. Would the gauge panel removal help with access to the switch if I have to repair a burnt staycon/conductor? Thanks.
Brian
 



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Here's the headlight switch test procedure from my Ford software:

Illuminated Entry, Aerostar.

NOTE:
Before performing diagnosis, verify illuminated entry system function. The illuminated entry module will not turn off the interior lamp if it is turned on by the headlamp rheostat, or if the door is open.


Quick Checks

1. Verify that circuit to interior lamp is working. If not, check fuse.

2. With the ignition switch in ACC or RUN position, verify that other systems which share the same accessory fuse are functional. If not, check fuse.

3. If any of the above systems are not working properly, service the inoperative circuit and then recheck the operation of the illuminated entry system before proceeding with the following complete check-out procedure.


Pretest Checks

1. Terminal numbers referred to in the following procedure relate to the wiring connector attached to the illuminated entry actuator assembly. The terminals are numbered from left to right (when the connector is held as shown).

2. Any malfunctions diagnosed in Step 4 of the test procedure could be located in either front door.

3. To trace and/or service various circuits, refer to the respective vehicle wiring diagrams.

4. Check system fuses (two) before proceeding.


Test Procedure

1. Connect a 12-volt test light between Terminal No. 8 and a good ground. Test light should glow at all times with ignition switch in RUN or OFF position. If not, trace circuit 54 (light green with yellow stripe) back to fuse panel and service.



2. Connect a 12-volt test light between Terminal No. 7 and a good ground. The test light should glow when the ignition switch in ACC or RUN position and go out when the ignition switch is turned to OFF or LOCK position. If not, trace Circuit 296 (white-purple) back to fuse panel and service.



3. Connect a jumper wire between Terminals No. 6 and 8. With vehicle doors closed, interior lamp should be on. If not, trace Circuit 53 (black with light blue stripe) and service.



4. NOTE: When operating door handle, hold in raised position.

Connect an ohmmeter between Terminal No. 2 and a good ground. The ohmmeter should show over 10,000 ohms (open). Then, operate each outside door handle in turn; ohmmeter should show not more than 50 ohms (closed). If readings are not as specified, then trace Circuit 465 (white with light blue stripe) back to latch switches and service.



5. Connect a 12-volt test light between Terminal No. 1 and Terminal No. 8. The test light should glow. If not, trace Circuit 57 (black) back to ground and service.




After Testing

If all tests check out OK and the illuminated entry system is still malfunctioning, the actuator assembly is the cause of the problem and must be replaced.
 






Hey Brooklyn Bay, I am way past the testing phase. I'm on fire!!

Thanks for the reply Brooklyn. I tackled my headlight switch today. Switch comes out from the front. I had to pry off the plastic knee panel and I unscrewed the metal knee panel behind it. The metal panel does not have to be removed though. Just the plastic trim peices. The air vent peice, the plastic piece around the radio and the piece around the gauge panel. All these plasic peices are held in by 9/32 screws and by being pressed in. The plastic pieces do not need to be completly taken out, they just need to be pulled out far enough to get to the light switch. There is 2 9/32 screws and a 15/16 nut holding in the switch. Now you can press the spring loaded button on the headlight switch so you can pull out the headlight switch knob out of the switch which will free the switch from the plastic piece. Pull the switch out from the dash and disconnect the wiring connector going to it. This is where my problem is. The headlight switch overheated and burnt up the wiring the connector. I needed to go to school tonight so I hooked up the new headlight switch and left all the plastic trim peices hanging. I ordered the pig tail headlight switch wiring connector to cut the wires and install a new connector from NAPA. The part will be here on Thursday. I will post the part number and results of the wiring repair when complete.
Brian
 












$18 for the headlight switch from NAPA. The connector should be $12 and I think it will be from Elgin? It took quite a few calls to find this patch connector. The NAPA guy finally call his Factory Rep to get it for me. I will post when I get it the part # and price.
Brian
 






The pig tail head light switch connector is made by Echlin with a NAPA part #EC6. That and some stak-ons and di-electric grease and I am all set.
Brian
 






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