- January 26, 2004
- Reaction score
- City, State
- Mechanicsville, Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2004 Acura TL
Last week I was driving at night and my headlights and foglights went out (my parking lamps were still on), and I could barely see the road. I then barley touched the headlight switch and the lights come right back on - which indicated to me that the switch was bad and not a wiring problem. I then ordered a switch, 3L5Z-11654-BA, and replaced it. Here is how you replace it on a second gen:
I believe the bolts inside are standard, but I went ahead and used metric stuff (so you'll need a 7mm and a 8mm - 1/4 drive). You may also want a light if you aren't in a well lighted area.
Go in this order:
(1) Radio Bezel, (2) Instrument Panel Bezel, (3) Bottom Panel (by OBDII connector and Hood Release), (4) Hood Release, (5) Metal Panel (under #3), (6) Under Panel
That may seem a little complicated but it'll all make sense once you get into it.
Now, once you get to #5, you will see two gold colored screws (both 8mms) that will need to be either loosened or removed to pull it down just a little to get to the two other bolts for the instrument panel bezel. After you get those two bolts, you're ready to pull the bezel out. Now, I pull the bezel only out a little bit and then unscrewed the screws for the switch (2 phillips screws). You can also pull the bezel out, just make sure you disconnect everything before. Disconnect the connector once the switch is loose and replace it with the new one. Then reverse the directions to reinstall. It isn't that hard.
Here is what I found:
1) Burnt/Corroded Prong/Post
2) Melted Switch and Connector (a little bit, not enough to complicate the connection)
3) Burnt Out Light (which indicates Off, Parking, Headlamps)
Sorry for the not so clear pictures, but they'll work:
You can see the discoloration on the prongs/post and if you look hard enough you can see a little bit of the melted plastic. My connector (thats in the car) was melted a little, but not enough to keep my switch from getting a good connection. If a connector is burnt/melted really bad, you should replace it before replacing the switch (it may cause the new one to burn up).
When I recieved this Explorer I always noticed that the indicators (Off, Parking Lamps, Headlamps) never illuminated; but it was because the bulb was burnt out. I could of caught this earlier, but I didn't know it was suppose to light up until I was in my brothers '99 Ranger which illuminated. Oh well, live and learn. Hope this helps someone out.