Alarm wiring problem

[lilone71742]

I have all of the wire connected to my alarm with the exception of a few. The alarm i have is an autopage 315. On my alarm harness im not sure what to do with the following wires: Positive door trigger (+) input Negative Door trigger(-) input

also (-) 200 mA Unlock Pulse
(+) 200 mA lock Pulse ( one wire hook up)



(-) 200 mA Lock Pulse
(+) 200 mA Unlock Pulse (one wire hook up)

Trying to figure out what wires hook up to door lock/unlock

 

[oplitic]

What year explorer do you have? I can get the wire colors for you.

Positive door trigger (+) input Negative Door trigger(-) input
---These hook up to the door triggers, you will use one or the other depending on what is in the vehicle. The wire says when the doors are open, like when your interior lights turn on. You connect this so if your alarm is on and someone somehow opens your door the alarm will go off.

(-) 200 mA Lock Pulse
(-) 200 mA Unlock Pulse

(+) 200 mA lock Pulse ( one wire hook up)
(+) 200 mA Unlock Pulse (one wire hook up)
---you will either have negative or positive door locks. You hook these up to lock and unlock from the remote you were given.

 

[oplitic]

For a 99 Explorer, saw it under your name...

All Door Trigger:
--- To avoid the dome light delay and dome light time-out use the separate door triggers. In the drivers kick panel find yellow/black for the drivers door, lt. green/yellow for the drivers rear door, and white/purple for the rear hatch. In the passengers kick panel find gray/red for the passenger front door, and pink/lt. blue for the passengers rear door. All five wires are negative trigger and must be diode isolated together.
---You could use:
All Door Trigger - BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) - COURTESY LIGHT UNDER DASH
-But, if your dome lights have a delay then it will take a minute for the alarm to see the door shut.

Lock/Unlock:
---Power Lock - Pink/Yellow - (-) - Driver Kick Panel
---Power Unlock - Pink/Green - (-) - Driver Kick panel

Make sure if the alarm lets you that you hook up factory disarm, or else your stock alarm will go off when you open the door like mine did on my first alarm install.
Yours is:
---Factory Disarm - Dk. Green/Purple - (-) - Driver Kick Panel

 

[oplitic]

Just incase people have some of the same questions, I'll throw in the message I sent back to lilone71742...

my alarm
Green wire (lock) - pink/yelllow
Blue wire (unlock)-Pink/ light green

^^^This is correct.

violet + door trigger-black/light blue
is a relay required for this
i had one hooked up but not sure if wired correctly.
Your door triggers are positive(+) so hook up your positive(+) door trigger coming from the alarm, it's an input TO the alarm so no relay is needed. It's getting a signal. Relays are needed only when you need to change the polarity, or need a stronger positive or negative signal from the alarm (like if your parking lights need a bigger mount of current then what comes out of the alarm).



My alarm doesn't have a factory disarm..
If it doesn't have a factory disarm wire, then the factory alarm might still go off when you open the door. You can diode isolate the the unlock wire and hook it up to unlock like you were going to and also hook it up to your disarm wire.
Quick sketch:

also do you think it would be worthwile to hook up starter disable? My car already has the factory PATS system so it wont crank without key with chip.
I think it would be a good idea, there are ways around PATS, not many people can and it would be pros, but having another 'wall' of security is always good and easy to do.


i gave power to the alarm and the siren started going off. the vallet switch wouldn't turn it off. would this be due to something hooked up correctly. I understand car audio but security is different but nothing i can't figure out. What steps did you take when you first plugged yours up?

It might be, I've never had it go off as soon as I hook it up but some companies do things differently. Would it go off with the remote? With the vallet switch usually you have to hold it down for a certain amount of time, or press it so many times, not just hit it once. That might be the problem too.

When doing an alarm or remote starter I almost always do it in this order:
1. Prep everything, I do any connections I can outside of the vehicle, cut off wires I won't be using, electrical tape EVERY wire so it's not easy for a thief to look up and see where it is to disable it, solder any connections I can, etc.
..Then I hook up...
2. Ignition wires
3. Lock/unlock
4. Disarm
5. Parking lights
6. Brake (remote starter)
7. Ground
8. Run the antenna

Thanks

 

[lilone71742]

I just remembered there is no factory alarm on my car... There was a unit installed aftermarket which i took out when i started this install. looks like i won't have to hook ut up anyway, i will on the other hand hook up the starter disable.

 

[oplitic]

I just remembered there is no factory alarm on my car... There was a unit installed aftermarket which i took out when i started this install. looks like i won't have to hook ut up anyway, i will on the other hand hook up the starter disable.

Sounds good bro.