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Alot of Tire Questions

KC0BZG

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer
Hi my name is Scott and Ive got a lot tire questions.
I'm a beginner and looking for advice. I'm looking to upgrade my tire so it'll suit for trail driving for the minnesota area. Now I do know I'll have to get a lift kit if I go a larger.
But how much largER should I if I need to go large?
What style of tires would you recommend?
 



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What sub model Explorer do you have? (XLT, XLT Sport, Limited, etc)
 






Hi my name is Scott and Ive got a lot tire questions.
I'm a beginner and looking for advice. I'm looking to upgrade my tire so it'll suit for trail driving for the minnesota area. Now I do know I'll have to get a lift kit if I go a larger.
But how much largER should I if I need to go large?
What style of tires would you recommend?

Here is some info you can find by using the search function. I entered 'lifts and tire sizes'

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67200&highlight=lifts+tire+sizes

As for what style, we need to know more about the type and locations of driving you intend to do.

The 3rd gen is very limited when it comes to lifting because the rear is an Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) and the axle stub shafts go through the frame.
 






I'm still tring to figure that out myself. But I've come up with 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2 door v6 4.0l engine.
 






You can go slightly larger than stock and gain a little ground clearance without having to do a lift, but you can also just lift the body or suspension slightly as well.

2002-2005 Explorers have a fully independant front and rear suspension. This makes lifting these truck a bit more complex than lifting your average Heep, ranger, and full-size truck.

You have 3 options:

1) 3" Body Lift. This lift inerts a spacer between the chassis and body. Does not change your factory suspension geometry. Bigger tires but mediocre ground clearance improvement (from 29" factory tire to 32" tire only nets 1.5" clearance increase). This lift keeps factory suspension geometery and factory ride. The only change will be due to your change in tires. (All-terrain ride a bit more truck-like, stiffer) LOOK HERE: Body Lift: How-to

2) Spacer Lift: This Lift Inserts a spacer between the top of the strut and the strut mounting location. This allows factory travel, but that amount of travel has been moved down by 1.5 - 2.5". Your spacer dimension correlates directly to an increase in clearance before including larger diameter tires. Ride is pretty close to stock. You WILL need a alignment after this lift.
Options are BTF Fabrication and TRUXX. The BTF kit is a direct bolt on developed by a member of this forum. A 2.25" spacer kit will net you 3.5" of lift due to your suspension geometry. Here's the install of that lift kit: BTF Fabrication Spacer install

3) Coil Spring: This lift uses longer (stiffer) springs than from the factory on factory length struts. Your suspension travel may actually decrease with this lift. Your up down-travel will decrease due to struts now riding in a slightly extended position all the time. Lift height may not be exactly what you order, due to the age of your vehicle factory springs may have "settled". You will need an alignment after this lift. Look here:How-to: Coil Spring Lift

You can combine a body lift with a spacer lift, or a body lift and a coil spring lift. Longer coils with spacers is not a good idea (too much stress on your ball joints).


I'd say an all-terrain type of tire is what you want, so it does well on the paved roads in dry and inclement weather like rain and snow, but also can handle the dirt and mud of the trail.
 






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