Also rumble strip feeling

[EBfan]

Ok so i'm getting ready to order some parts to cure out some or hopefully all of the rumble strip feeling in my 2005 4.6L V8 Eddie Bauer ex - Just hoping you guys can just take a look at my list and see if there is anything missing that may cause that type of vibration.
Please note although there may be a little chance of the wheel needing balancing (or all of them) i bought the vehicle two months ago and this has been there since the first week - The tires are new and were balanced and aligned at the same time although not in my hands at the time. Adding onto this it's making a knocking feeling like something is loose underneath more so when it's warm than cold outside. This i can feel through the pedal more than the steering wheel and the steering is tight and responsive throughout.

Anyways i currently have in my cart

SKF wheel hubs for the front - There is a wheel bearing whine and starts to grumble over 60 more on the left corners than the right but i'm figuring on changing them both out

Front right hand UCA & LCA - The rubber bushing on the lower mount has visibly started to crack and degrade - The upper is getting rusty so i figured i'd change them out at the same time - It might even be worth doing the same on the other side ??

Sway bar links - Same as above bushings are worn

Front rotors and pads - Got that warped rotor feeling under breaking

Hopefully that should put a stop to the rumbles and groans at least getting me through the winter when it gets here.. It's my work and family car so safe and reliable is key for me - Anything i might have missed in that little lot ?

Thanks in advance

 

[swshawaii]

Very recent thread "may" be related to your vibration issues. GL

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3447526

 

[EBfan]

Very recent thread "may" be related to your vibration issues. GL

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3447526

Thanks bud i read that one and mine is slightly different in that i get the knocking sensation when either on the occasional straight or turning a corner one way - on the other corner no such issues - It's more of a knocking (parts moving feeling) than a drrrr from a rumble strip if that makes sense - If not then i know the thread to head to next lol

 

[swshawaii]

Sway bar end links are in your cart but did you physically check them? Probably the single most common failure with Explorer front ends causing a knock or rattle. Worn sway bar frame bushings are also common for wear but usually just squeak unless they are completely disintegrated. Grab a hammer and tap on the end links checking for looseness or noises.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

 

[EBfan]

Sway bar end links are in your cart but did you physically check them? Probably the single most common failure with Explorer front ends causing a knock or rattle. Worn sway bar frame bushings are also common for wear but usually just squeak unless they are completely disintegrated. Grab a hammer and tap on the end links checking for looseness or noises.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

I will head out and have a check - You're correct i didn't physically check them more than noticing the bushings were wearing out on one side but that i shall do right now..

[Edit] - And that is why i come to forums - The side that has worn bushings is still in there nice and solid not a single movement - However the drivers side that looks a lot less worn actually moved so easily i checked and could move it by hand - I've tightened it down as far as i can without wanting to snap it completely and it still moves although not as drastically as before - The other things are still on the to do list (and may just get purchased anyways) but this seems like the more immediate thing to fix

 

[apenland01]

Those hubs will make a huge difference.....

I just recently did the same work over the past few months. I had to do it in stages because there's no way I would have gotten it all done in a weekend. Since I have to drive this thing every day, I couldn't take a chance it would drag into the weekdays.

As for your list, looks good, but I would add the $9 Moog sway bar bushings and replace those too. I coated the bushings in magic lube, which is what I used to coat my orings and stuff on my pool filter/pump valves. It works awesome on these bushings!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Lube-Lubricant-and-Sealant-51630/202268160

Also, since there will be basically nothing there, if your coilover struts need to be replaced, it would be quite easy to install them now.

 

[EBfan]

Those hubs will make a huge difference.....

I just recently did the same work over the past few months. I had to do it in stages because there's no way I would have gotten it all done in a weekend. Since I have to drive this thing every day, I couldn't take a chance it would drag into the weekdays.

As for your list, looks good, but I would add the $9 Moog sway bar bushings and replace those too. I coated the bushings in magic lube, which is what I used to coat my orings and stuff on my pool filter/pump valves. It works awesome on these bushings!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Lube-Lubricant-and-Sealant-51630/202268160

Also, since there will be basically nothing there, if your coilover struts need to be replaced, it would be quite easy to install them now.

Thanks very much i'll add them up at the same time - Rockauto can be a mission to order from it seems as it sometimes lists a couple of part numbers even when specifying a year model etc of the vehicle

 

[EBfan]

Ok so i got the MOOG k700542 problem solver front sway bar links - The old nuts came off pretty easily however the sleeves were rusted to the bolts so ended up having to hacksaw them off by hand - Put the new ones on and found it a little odd that they don't come with nylocks - Not sure if i tightened them enough because they still tighten more but don't want to go overboard and kill the bushings - The swap is however now done and the handling seems to be tighter (didn't notice how wobbly it was until now)
Anyone had experience with these know roughly how tight i should be doing them up ?

 

[swshawaii]

Found da link. IIRC in another thread Moog said to use the factory torque spec for the poly end links. (15-21 ft/lbs.)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3386464&postcount=21

 

[EBfan]

Found da link.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3386464&postcount=21

That's awesome I now know they are tight enough - Thank you

 

[swshawaii]

Unlikely they will loosen, but you could use a drop of blue Loctite on the bolt threads as a precaution. Glad they helped!

 

[EBfan]

I got the rest to do first but up until that point i'll keep a check on them to make sure they aren't coming loose - Once i have everything else done i'll blue loctite them

 

[EBfan]

Sorry for bumping but I just wanted to say thanks to the great folks that read and advised me on all of this - Checked the sway bar end links today and they're as tight as when i put them on which is great news..

Today (until rain stopped play) I figured I would attempt the new hubs, brake rotors and pads (beings as I had to remove those anyways) I was expecting the worst after reading of all the troubles that folks had been having in removing the hubs so I got the proper tools for the job in hand - First up let's loosen those axle nuts - Popped the 1/2" drive 30mm socket onto the 250 ft/lb torque wrench expecting a fair amount of fight to get them off (a) they were rusty (b) 194ft/lbs of torque is not to be sneezed at - I'm 150lbs wet through and they came off without struggle or even that much force..

At this point i thought that perhaps the good folks that put the last ones on there maybe didn't torque it up all the way and maybe I could get away with just tightening it but common sense took hold and I decided to change them out anyways. I jacked up the car and found that my axle stands were too high to go under the front even with the jack at full stretch (should have purchased the more expensive one) Hey ho I managed to get them to fit under the part of the chassis that dips just back from the wheel well - Awesome so car's jacked up and on a stand - Took the wheel off, caliper and rotor without problems - Removed the ABS wire, used the hub puller I got to compress the axle out of the hub and then came the dreaded 3 bolts to the hub - Put the deep offset wrench you all recommended on each bolt and smacked the end with a 2.5lb lump hammer - Each one came right off however one was able to be removed after a few turns by hand the other two took a little more fun with the wrench but still nothing to the extent reported here by some members - A few smacks with the hammer and the hub was off - This seemed far too easy from the horror that I feared awaited me - Everything went back together as smoothly as it came apart - I have torqued up the axle nut however everything else still needs to be torqued up to spec because this was the point that rain stopped play.

I hope I haven't jinxed myself for tomorrow but if everything goes as smoothly on the other side then i'll be a very happy bunny - But i'll end this post as I started it thank you all very much for the help that's given freely on this forum although I had to buy a few tools to take on the job in hand i've still paid less than the stealership doing both sides and I have the tools for any future jobs