Sport Trac Jr. engine,body bush,Manual Tran.....quest... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Sport Trac Jr. engine,body bush,Manual Tran.....quest...

Well after looking for a year found a 2001 5 speed...cracked window, as heck floor....have cleaned to 9.2 level inside. New wind shield fix
150.00....4.99 134A freon ice cold...came with 255x70x16.....

1.) Tran is a tight shift, hard at time shift when stopped, not when driving??? Impressed with the level of speed and power...5 speed

2.( Question, Body bushing do you have to loosen all on one side when just replacing center bushing...on one side...thanks..

3.) I really like the Sport Trac allot....Im tee'ed off with the looming 4.0 engine issue....the question is their a engine that does not have
time chain issue thats rock solid....??? solid meaning not having to pull the engine for time chain or oil pump....Why Ford did that I dont
know....and the words for that prob should not be posted....Has the 5 speed M5R1 manual transmission, think thats actually a Mazda trans.
Suppose the engine will have to link to computer.....what ever that will be............unless their are swap outs with computer also that works
Im sure some one is up on that..............


4.) To get the outside Sport Trac to 94% will have to paint hood.....which is OK....would rather not, but paid nothing for it and it is smooth as hell driving....during my test drive...

5.) Just ordered the Detroit Axle full redo kit front end - all control arms , ball joints , Tie Rods 80.00 10 year like DAxle allot used for years...
NEW 8pc Complete Front Suspension Kit for Explorer Sport Trac - 2-Piece Design | eBay

Im just trying to.......................... "Make My Ford Sport Trac Grate Again".....
You do need to remove all the bolts on the side you are replacing to lift the body. The bolts have loctite on threads so may have to heat them to loosen them.
 



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the drivers side upper cassette you can get a decent look at through the oil fill spout :)
If your SOHC has more then 90K miles on it I would install a set of new motorcraft tensioners.
OR
consider the manually adjusted tensioners, try a search on that to decide if they are right for you.
If it was my SOHC engine and was in good running condition I WOULD RUN MANUAL TENSIONERS, valvoline full synthetic engine oil with a motorcraft filter and change it at 5000 miles........ engine will last for a long long time treated this way

What is the difference in the motor craft tens. and the manually adjusted tens....vs the ratcheting tensioners..??

thanks 410
 






You do need to remove all the bolts on the side you are replacing to lift the body. The bolts have loctite on threads so may have to heat them to loosen them.

Thanks was not sure but seem like that was the deal on the body being able to go up, ....unless I used a 10 ton jack
and bent a arch so they could go in...that could work....

Thanks Cand.....I figured their was no easy way secret ST hand shake thing.... so I did not have to loosen all...
 






nobody in their right mind would remove a SOHC 4.0 to install a ohv 4.0....no way no how!!!

I am seeing sohc engines with well over 250-300K miles these days, the engine was used in so many vehicles from 98-2014, there are so many of them out there. The people who change their oil at 3-5000 miles and keep the engine cool (stay up on maintenence) can easily see similar miles to the pushrod 4.0

It goes like this, ive said this so many times over the years its silly
Cologne Merkur v6 family of engines, 2.6L was in the Ford courier became the carbed 2.8L in 1984 when the Ranger and BII were created.
the 2.8 ditched its carb and went EFI in 1986 when it became the 2.9L. The 2.9L still had a distributor and TFI ignition module.
In 1989 the 2.9 was bored and stroked (finally!) and they created the 4.0L pushrod, no more distributor and now we have mass air and a good EFI coil pack ignition! The 4.0 ohv was upgraded in 95 much better heads.......it continued to see improvements mostly to the cooling passages and combustion chamber until its final year in 2000.
The 4.0 SOHC was released in 1997 with its 5 timing chains and hydraulic tensioners, nylon guides. The 97-98 engines were recalled for faulty chain tensioners. This is where people got a really bad taste for the SOHC 4.0. But like all Ford engines it was improved upon until its final year I believe 2014 in the stang and sploder. the SOHC is a POWERHOUSE, it has a BOMB proof bottom end........it makes V8 power and gets good MPG.

Now with that said I will never own a SOHC 4.0, I simply do not need to. I was never a fan of the v6 automatic transmissions, and for the 4x4ing I do and my trucks use I will always keep a automatic trans. So for me and my shop we build trucks here two ways (usually, there are exceptions) 4.0 pushrod and 5 speed manual, or 5.0 V8 and 4r70w automatic

There are 5 speed transmissions that can be used behind the 5.0 V8, yes
To change out from what you have now would be silly just based on some SOHC 4.0 fears derived from the internet. Run what ya brung!
The sohc with a 5 speed in an explorer sport is a wicked good setup!!!!! Keep it! Consider a new clutch, hydraulics and shifter bushings.
If your SOHC engine is making a timing/ticking noise at cold start then that would be when its time to consider going inside the engine for some repairs......

Here we go some more!
Every time I see the 4.0 to 5.0 swap brought up I get a little closer to driving it over to 410's neck of the woods, and hand him that stack of money.
With only 103k on it though, and treated like a baby she pretty much will last the<10 years to retirement.
Then I'll just have to do it myself-- but I want it now.
Until then, you guys just keep mocking me...
 






What is the difference in the motor craft tens. and the manually adjusted tens....vs the ratcheting tensioners..??

thanks 410

You don't have "ratcheting" tensioners. The Ford 4.0L SOHC tensioners are spring assisted hydraulic. Manual tensioners are mechanical. They adjust with a threaded rod and a lock nut.
 






Here we go some more!
Every time I see the 4.0 to 5.0 swap brought up I get a little closer to driving it over to 410's neck of the woods, and hand him that stack of money.
With only 103k on it though, and treated like a baby she pretty much will last the<10 years to retirement.
Then I'll just have to do it myself-- but I want it now.
Until then, you guys just keep mocking me...

Sands dude......Im new to the ST site.......de-code the above for me on the "do it myself"....and 4 to 5 swap...
so I get it.......
thanks......ST Jr......
 






You don't have "ratcheting" tensioners. The Ford 4.0L SOHC tensioners are spring assisted hydraulic. Manual tensioners are mechanical. They adjust with a threaded rod and a lock nut.

Thanks Koda.......So I have the tensioners with spring assisted hydraulic .......So I suppose my 2001 ST should be
changed at 180K ............right??
 






Thanks Koda.......So I have the tensioners with spring assisted hydraulic .......So I suppose my 2001 ST should be
changed at 180K ............right??

75,000, but you still have not answered my questions re what is/are the issues (if any) with your SOHC 4.0L engine.
 






75,000, but you still have not answered my questions re what is/are the issues (if any) with your SOHC 4.0L engine.

Thanks Koda
I dont think I have any......have been test driving....seems OK....no time chain noise.....etc.
 






Sands dude......Im new to the ST site.......de-code the above for me on the "do it myself"....and 4 to 5 swap...
so I get it.......
thanks......ST Jr......
I want to swap to the 5.0l, but won't have the time until I retire. Don't want to wait that long to do it myself, so find it tempting to take the truck and cash over to 410Fortune's shop.
It's a swap that he has performed over and over, besides I don't need the grief.
I have skills, but @ this point in life, not the drive to go that far into it.
Let a Professional do it!
As pointed out, the 4.0 SOHC is fairly gutsy.
However I pull a 14ft trailer loaded w/ highly modifed FL570 Pilot, FL670 Odyssey, and spares so added torque will make for an easier pull over to Eastern Wa., Sand Lake, Coos Bay.
Want to get down to Glamis, so yeah, that would be more comfortable on a longer haul.
Even though the SOHC does it, just hate hearing the engine work hard.
Welcome to the site, there are multiple threads on anything you can come up with, and members who are respectful and up to the eyeballs in knowledge and experience!
Mark
 






I want to swap to the 5.0l, but won't have the time until I retire. Don't want to wait that long to do it myself, so find it tempting to take the truck and cash over to 410Fortune's shop.
It's a swap that he has performed over and over, besides I don't need the grief.
I have skills, but @ this point in life, not the drive to go that far into it.
Let a Professional do it!
As pointed out, the 4.0 SOHC is fairly gutsy.
However I pull a 14ft trailer loaded w/ highly modifed FL570 Pilot, FL670 Odyssey, and spares so added torque will make for an easier pull over to Eastern Wa., Sand Lake, Coos Bay.
Want to get down to Glamis, so yeah, that would be more comfortable on a longer haul.
Even though the SOHC does it, just hate hearing the engine work hard.
Welcome to the site, there are multiple threads on anything you can come up with, and members who are respectful and up to the eyeballs in knowledge and experience!
Mark

thanks Mark.....I see what you mean on the driving you are doing......seems logical as spock would say...
thanks for that info ....
 






For towing toys and longevity the 5.0 and 4r70w would be FAR superior to the sohc and 5r55e



I can do 5.0 conversions for sure! I'm doing two of them right now......Just say when
 






okay so here is the QUICK skinney on the polaris style manual tensioners
Back in 2014 we bought a 2014 Polaris rzr xp1000 It had a cold start rattle, I knew the noise right away. Yes Polaris delivered their machines this way. We have a 2015 also that did the same thing, and a 2018 that for some reason does not, all machines use the same Polaris Prostar 999cc 4 valve dohc 4 stroke engine. To my surprise (not really) the timing chain tensioner on the POO POO is the same FORD part! (Cloyes makes them for ford)
Because the Polaris rzr is such a popular machine it has an aftermarket larger then a Jeep, it did not take long for people to discover the hydraulic chain tensioner sucks ass and was causing the chain slap, engine out of time, rattle at cold start. So companies like Boondocker turbo and Sparks racing were first to the scene with a manual tensioner. No more hydraulic pump up, just spring loaded pushing on the chain same tension always. So we tried them in the wifes 2015 4 seat rzr. No more noise. If course I paid $400 for the stainless steel manual tensioner back then because it was so "new" . Now you can get a PAIR of them on Ebay for like $60 LOL
We still have the 2015 xp4k and it has NEVER had the cold start rattle again.

There are two basic types of aftermarket rzr tensioners:
the spring loaded ones with manual adjustment, set the depth, set the lock nut and be done with it

The spring loaded/maybe hydraulic backup tensioned, ratcheting style.
Racheting simply means that once it is set to that depth it can never go back, there is a ratcheting mechanism that holds the tension there and will never let it retract.

You do not need the ratcheting style or the hydaulic tensioned ones, you simply need manual tensioners........ditch the oil pressure run a manually adjusted unit, set it once and forget it. @allmyEXes is running the maual tensioner in his sohc engine and is pleased so far.......
The Ford parts are $300+ EACH at the dealer.
I would NEVER install a cheaper (Not ford) tensioner into a SOHC engine UNLESS it was an aftermarket manual tensioner.

If I was to own a SOHC engine in my fleet, it would be fitted with manual tensioners. In fact I have a set of the $60 ones downstairs I was going to install in a family members sport trac....but then they went v8 instead, so someday I will get to use those :)
 






thanks Mark.....I see what you mean on the driving you are doing......seems logical as spock would say...
thanks for that info ....

Oh ....Mark I forgot .....410 is going to do my ehgine........I drove through a creek and have to
do a little cleaning, but its cool.....bring it in Wed. pick up Friday....
1597548242137.png
 






okay so here is the QUICK skinney on the polaris style manual tensioners
Back in 2014 we bought a 2014 Polaris rzr xp1000 It had a cold start rattle, I knew the noise right away. Yes Polaris delivered their machines this way. We have a 2015 also that did the same thing, and a 2018 that for some reason does not, all machines use the same Polaris Prostar 999cc 4 valve dohc 4 stroke engine. To my surprise (not really) the timing chain tensioner on the POO POO is the same FORD part! (Cloyes makes them for ford)
Because the Polaris rzr is such a popular machine it has an aftermarket larger then a Jeep, it did not take long for people to discover the hydraulic chain tensioner sucks ass and was causing the chain slap, engine out of time, rattle at cold start. So companies like Boondocker turbo and Sparks racing were first to the scene with a manual tensioner. No more hydraulic pump up, just spring loaded pushing on the chain same tension always. So we tried them in the wifes 2015 4 seat rzr. No more noise. If course I paid $400 for the stainless steel manual tensioner back then because it was so "new" . Now you can get a PAIR of them on Ebay for like $60 LOL
We still have the 2015 xp4k and it has NEVER had the cold start rattle again.

There are two basic types of aftermarket rzr tensioners:
the spring loaded ones with manual adjustment, set the depth, set the lock nut and be done with it

The spring loaded/maybe hydraulic backup tensioned, ratcheting style.
Racheting simply means that once it is set to that depth it can never go back, there is a ratcheting mechanism that holds the tension there and will never let it retract.

You do not need the ratcheting style or the hydaulic tensioned ones, you simply need manual tensioners........ditch the oil pressure run a manually adjusted unit, set it once and forget it. @allmyEXes is running the maual tensioner in his sohc engine and is pleased so far.......
The Ford parts are $300+ EACH at the dealer.
I would NEVER install a cheaper (Not ford) tensioner into a SOHC engine UNLESS it was an aftermarket manual tensioner.

If I was to own a SOHC engine in my fleet, it would be fitted with manual tensioners. In fact I have a set of the $60 ones downstairs I was going to install in a family members sport trac....but then they went v8 instead, so someday I will get to use those :)

Wow are you say the manual tensioners are 300.00 each or is their Cloyes copy that is the same ....
and Ford seeing a engine fault is cashing in ....do you have part no. or cut paste address of the manual tensioners...
I kind of feel a little faint right now....I have lay down...
 






Motorcraft tensioners are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $350 for a pair maybe it is? $300 each? I cant remember its been three years+ since I went to a Ford dealer to get some

Cloyes makes the tensioners for Ford BUT the cloyes tensioners you can get from Oreillys/autozone, etc are NOT THE SAME and will NOT LAST

I speak from experience here, just because I don't own a SOHC does not mean I have not fixed 100 of them
I will NOT install a tensioner into a SOHC engine that is not FORD brand or MANUAL from Ebay as strange as that sounds :) Its either $300+ of $80 you decide LOL

Here are the Ebay tensioners:
 






For towing toys and longevity the 5.0 and 4r70w would be FAR superior to the sohc and 5r55e



I can do 5.0 conversions for sure! I'm doing two of them right now......Just say when

Yuup far superior, original 5r55e went out @89k.
Instead of having it built woulda coulda shoulda done the conversion.
I was a member here, but had not researched it.
My pride and joy 3 state champ Shepherd died a little more than a year ago.
Have been throwing thousands @ his replacement and next month goes to military school for a couple weeks.
Consequently, the toys have stayed in the barn.
And Bohannon (my Sporty) will have to wait a little longer- maybe after winter

Until the rig shows @ your door 410, will continue to keep the drivetrain happier with proper cooling...
 






Oh ....Mark I forgot .....410 is going to do my ehgine........I drove through a creek and have to
do a little cleaning, but its cool.....bring it in Wed. pick up Friday....
View attachment 320200
You drove thru a creek? Or a giant MUDPIT?
Besides the great info here, I really like seeing how the members use their rigs
 






Ill be here, shop will be clean and ready. I have two aussie shepherd mixes here, one Collie mix and the other lab? Aus shepherds are AWESOME DOGS!!!!!! Sorry to hear about your doggie :(

Shop dogs
"Ranger" and the new one "Ace"
171_161130_290000001.jpg


171_161130_290000000.jpg
 



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Ill be here, shop will be clean and ready. I have two aussie shepherd mixes here, one Collie mix and the other lab? Aus shepherds are AWESOME DOGS!!!!!! Sorry to hear about your doggie :(

Shop dogs
"Ranger" and the new one "Ace"
View attachment 320204

View attachment 320205
Love the drivey dogs!
My latest, Klaus, is more relaxed, (and bigger!) than my last hell raiser.
He wouldn't win the competitions without the super drive, but I'm getting to old anyway.
That does not mean he won't get the training! Here he is the day we got him 11 months ago
IMAG0265.jpg
 






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