Amp is not working correctly: Should I replace the stock amp or bypass it?

[TonyLo]

Ok so I have a 96 explorer sport (two door). I have recently gotten a new head unit and replaced all four door speakers with nice aftermarket ones. I have had a problem with some of the speakers cutting in and out: sometimes certain speakers will be much more quiet or completely cut off. This problem was present when everything was stock, when I changed all of the speakers, and finally when I changed my head unit. So the problem is either the wires or the much more likely cause of a bad amplifier which a local audio shop told me. So I could bypass the amplifier since the head unit has plenty of power but perhaps I could change the amplifier and have the expandability of getting a sub. Would it be possible to just replace the stock amplifier with an aftermarket one and just use all of the existing wires that are already connected to the stock one? If not, what would I have to do/ buy?. Also my explorer did not come with a sub woofer but instead has a storage location where the sub would be, but I would like to put a sub there just like others have it so what would I have to do to do that?

 

[617ricky]

So it seems that the install shop simply integrated the stock amp into your new system? Judging by the description it's tough to say whether it's a problem with the stock amp or the wiring.. Cuz yea, you can definitely bypass it with a $10 jumper, but you'd still be using ALL the wires leading to and from the amp.. If the problem is with the wiring, what you'd have to do is just run new speaker wires from the door speakers directly to your deck.. It's gonna be a hassle, but it would be an immediate fix, since you'd no longer be using the amp or wiring.. If you wanna exhaust your options 1st, you can order a bypass cable tho..

When I started upgrading my system, I was pretty much in your situation (minus the problems).. I added a deck, and integrated the stock amp into the system.. But a couple wks later I decided I wanted to add my own amp/sub.. I decided to bypass the stock amp 1st, not because it was necessary, but because it's not ideal.. With the deck and stock amp working together, I could only turn my volume halfway up before it got distorted, because you're amplifying an already amplified signal.. And with my own amp/sub, I didn't wanna be able to only turn it up halfway, ya kno? So I took care of the stock amp, which took care of that problem, with only my new deck powering the door speakers.. And then I just had a typical aftermarket amp install done for the sub, and it sounds pretty decent now..

That's probably what I'd do if I were you.. Just either run new wiring or bypass the stock amp and leave it there, either way.. Trying to get another amp in that spot would be a huge pain, as well as 1 of those stock subs that you're talking about.. The stock systems with the sub also have 2 stock amps btw - 1 for the speakers and 1 for the sub..

 

[TonyLo]

Actually I installed all the new speakers and head unit myself, but I went to a shop to get their advice and they said the stock amp was giving me problems which I also think is the problem. What I want to either do is bypass the amp, or what I want to do the most if money permits is remove the stock amp and replace it with an aftermarket one in the same location, and install a 10" sub in the back storage pocket where the sub would have been located if I had the factory sound system upgrade. It will probably be harder to do it that way but it will be a lot more ergonomic and also less appealing to thieves to want to break in my car since they wont even be able to see my amp and my sub enclosure will be attached to the side of the car. Can anyone who has done anything like this give me some direction? And also I havn't found an amp bypass adapter for less the 25$, where did you find it for 10$?

 

[617ricky]

Well you have the same model range as me, but I know that Ford used 2 different types of amps in that time frame.. This is the one I got and I think it's the most common that was used - http://tinyurl.com/yapvgpq - it actually comes with the harness too, but you're not gonna need that obv..

 

[TonyLo]

Alright I just might get the amp bypass... but do you know if it would be possible if I got a new amplifier to just use all of the existing wires that are connected to the stock one or will I have to do something else?

 

[toypaseo]

If I was you, I would just run my own wires, and bypass the OEM amp altogether.

Here are a few pics of my Budget Bass project. Added an OEM enclosure that was carved out to accept an 8" aftermarket sub. An aftermarket amp is located under the rear seat, on the driver side. A PAC OEM-2 converter tapped the OEM wires right after the OEM front/rear speakers amp. Cover is an OEM unit, with a two-piece metal speaker grill from Parts Express.

Click on image for larger view.

 

[TonyLo]

I was wanting to remove the stock amp altogether and put an aftermarket one in the same location so it wont be visible at all. Also my explorer only came with the storage pocket back there so how did you install the oem enclosure and where did you get one? What did you need the PAC OEM-2 converter for?

 

[toypaseo]

so how did you install the oem enclosure

I simply removed the rear side panel, and bolted it in as it came from the factory. Here are instructions on how to remove the rear panel:
http://www.mtx.com/thunderforms/p_21/Explorer_1991_2001/show.html
The factory rear pocket does not simply snap out. There are clips, that go through tabs, on the backside of the pocket.

where did you get one

used, from junkyard

What did you need the PAC OEM-2 converter for?

The PAC OEM-2 was used to convert the OEM high level signal from the speaker wires, into a low level signal through RCA cables to the aftermarket amp.

 

[TonyLo]

Thanks for the links... so will I need the pac-oem 2 converter if I have an aftermarket head unit?

 

[TonyLo]

Thanks for the links... so will I need the pac-oem 2 converter if I have an aftermarket head unit and I install a new amp?

 

[toypaseo]

Nope. Just run the RCAs off the headunit to the aftermarket amp.

I used the PAC OEM-2 since I am using the stock headunit.

I was considering putting my aftermarket amp being the rear side panel, but was worried about little/no air movement for cooling. Low wattage amp behind there, pry okay, but at what wattage is heat an issue

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Subscribing. I like what you did with the sub toypaseo! I had purchased a Q-Logic powerd sub many years ago, it sounded horrendous with the stock head unit. Returned it, now I wish I still had it... It was under $200 via Crutchfield Clearance.