An easy way to determine the TRUE maximum wattage from an amp. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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An easy way to determine the TRUE maximum wattage from an amp.

Fhantazm said:
Are you kidding me?? Ok, ok. Here, let me change it for the people that seem to want to argue.

FOR THE AMPLIFIERS THAT HAVE FUSES ON THEM, THEN THIS METHOD MAY HELP IN DETERMINING FALSE POWER RATINGS.

Is that better?? Jeezus. Common sense would tell you that if there are no fuses on the amp, then your not going to be able to use this forumla!!

i wassent trying to be an ass.just throwing in some humor..sry
 



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Nah,
Its cool man. And bates, no worries either. It just seemed that people were jumping on the badwagon (who werent kidding) and were completely missing the point of the thread. :)
 












i wasnt arguing either. i didnt think you would take it that way. sorry.
i was just saying there are amps out there that dont have built in fusing.
 






This is not a very accurate method at all there are too many variables. You can't determine an amps power rating just by the fuse on the side. A fuse can also handle double its rating for about 5 seconds. Take my Autotek for example it only has an 80 amp fuse and is rated at 1500 RMS @ 1 ohm. Now when bench tested it puts out close to 1800 RMS at 1 ohm and around 2100 RMS when dropped to 0.5. Now with that method that you posted my amps maximun power is only 1120:rolleyes:

"If there are no fuses on the amp, id say you have bigger troubles than false power ratings".

Most higher end amps dont have on board fuses and are meant to have an external fuse as close as possible to the amps positive input. Like the Orion 2500D for example.
 






Once again, I will make these 2 statements:

1.) This method is NOT DEAD ON ACURATE, and should not be used as an end all be all solution. This is a good solution for spotting false amplifier claims on lower end amplifiers.

2.) If there are no fuses onboard, then OBVIOUSLY this formula will NOT work.

So, next time, before rolling your eyes, you MAY want to read, and understand the whole purpose of the thread. No where, in this thread, was it stated that this method is perfect and will always apply.
 






Ahhh actually i did read the entire post. I'm just showing how inaccurate it can be. And i didn't say anything about this method working on amps without fuses, thats just obvious. I just quoted your statement about having bigger problems than power ratings with an amp with no fuses, which doesn't make sense at all. So mayb you MAY want to read and understand ;)
 






Fhantazm said:
Once again, I will make these 2 statements:

1.) This method is NOT DEAD ON ACURATE, and should not be used as an end all be all solution. This is a good solution for spotting false amplifier claims on lower end amplifiers. 2.) If there are no fuses onboard, then OBVIOUSLY this formula will NOT work.

So, next time, before rolling your eyes, you MAY want to read, and understand the whole purpose of the thread. No where, in this thread, was it stated that this method is perfect and will always apply.


This is a good solution for spotting false amplifier claims on lower end amplifiers.

This is a good solution for spotting false amplifier claims on lower end amplifiers.

This is a good solution for spotting false amplifier claims on lower end amplifiers.

ok now for those that just scan...ull see that :bounce:
 






LOL. Thanks man!
 






97XplorerSport said:
Ahhh actually i did read the entire post. I'm just showing how inaccurate it can be. And i didn't say anything about this method working on amps without fuses, thats just obvious. I just quoted your statement about having bigger problems than power ratings with an amp with no fuses, which doesn't make sense at all. So mayb you MAY want to read and understand ;)

Ok, let me clarify for you. Just think for a second and you would know the point I was trying to get across(in a joking manner, thats why I phrased it like that in the first place). But if not, I meant that if someone has an amplifier hooked up with absolutely no fuse inline, then there would be bigger problems. :smoke:
 






Fhantazm said:
Ok, let me clarify for you. Just think for a second and you would know the point I was trying to get across(in a joking manner, thats why I phrased it like that in the first place). But if not, I meant that if someone has an amplifier hooked up with absolutely no fuse inline, then there would be bigger problems. :smoke:

Ya after i posted i had a slight feeling thats what you meant to say, but i didnt know for sure b/c you didnt directly say it. :p
 






np. Nothing wrong with a little friendly disagreement. :)
 












i have 3 rockford fosgate 1000a2 amps...box said 1000 watts but the birth certificate cards that came with them said they were bench tested at aroudn 1500 watts.....
also they have no fuse on them.....
 






sigh..ok if ur amp has NO fuses in it...then dont post in this thread anymore..if u are going to BUY an amp with no fuses in it..again thread off limits..if u are looking for a good solid cheap amp but u are unsure of a companys claims or specs..post away

again please do NOT post if ur amp has no fuses or not
 






mhn3773 said:
sigh..ok if ur amp has NO fuses in it...then dont post in this thread anymore..if u are going to BUY an amp with no fuses in it..again thread off limits..if u are looking for a good solid cheap amp but u are unsure of a companys claims or specs..post away

again please do NOT post if ur amp has no fuses or not
could you repeat that please? i didnt catch that last part....:P
 






and thats why my friends RF kills my legacy amp
 






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