Annoying Squeak Driving Me Crazy! Video AND Pics! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Annoying Squeak Driving Me Crazy! Video AND Pics!

There is an inner tie rod in the boot near the rack that can be rusted on the ball end. Try some spray lube and see if it stops. replace if needed.

Can i take the boot off to do this? and then just seal it up? Or would one need to replace the boot? Not sure if its serviceable..
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





My 97 did had the same noise and I had new shocks put on when i bought my tires and the noise went away.
 






90% percent of my noises went away when I bought shocks. You can buy cheep ones for about $25 and they are relatively easy to replace. The old ones are provably near ceased up. If nothing else the ride will improve a lot. The ride height does change slightly with turning making shocks part of the possible problem.

As per the inner tie rod boot; I don't believe it can be roboved without cutting the metal band and would put that last on the list.
 






90% percent of my noises went away when I bought shocks. You can buy cheep ones for about $25 and they are relatively easy to replace. The old ones are provably near ceased up. If nothing else the ride will improve a lot. The ride height does change slightly with turning making shocks part of the possible problem.

As per the inner tie rod boot; I don't believe it can be roboved without cutting the metal band and would put that last on the list.

Hey

Well I took the shock off and the squeak remains, so next thing is I'll replace the upper-ball joint / with control arm. Hopefully its not the lower one.

I'll keep you guys updated.
 






I would remove that open grease because it will just attract sand and dirt.
 






Wow I just looked at the video and I forgot what it is like to have front suspension go up and down. I cranked my torsion bars up and it is super stiff
 






I would remove that open grease because it will just attract sand and dirt.
Yeah I will clean it up once the squeaks been eliminated, its not my daily driver so its just parked under a car port for the time being.
Thanks for the suggestion though:)
 






i had lots of noise coming from the front bushing on the leaf springs on the drivers side, and it seemed to come from the front, y pressure washed in between the lefsprings, the bushings, back sway bar, aprayed silicon lube, then trans. oil in (specially between the leafs), and lithium grease to seal the liquid lubes in, and it quiets the x for like 3 months, or until i go through several big puddles that wash the lube away.
 






i had lots of noise coming from the front bushing on the leaf springs on the drivers side, and it seemed to come from the front, y pressure washed in between the lefsprings, the bushings, back sway bar, aprayed silicon lube, then trans. oil in (specially between the leafs), and lithium grease to seal the liquid lubes in, and it quiets the x for like 3 months, or until i go through several big puddles that wash the lube away.

Thats new to me, I didn't even know the leafsprings had bushings, Something else to grease up lol, When you say silicone lube what brand / do u mean, cause i went to autozone and asked for silicon lube and the guy obviously didn't know what he was talking about showed me silicon sealant, I looked around the lubes of grease but never saw anything called silicon lube. Any ideas?
 






Liquid Wrench?
 












I had a squeak when going over bumps and turning(turning left to right without moving at all). My upper ball joint was dry/bad. Try drilling a small hole in the boot and squirting some lube in there.:thumbsup:
 






if your gonna drill it,, might as well put in a grease fitting,,
it might be okay , just dry,

if it stops raining for the weekend, i will take care of mine,, it's still squeaking just like yours.,
 






Sorry, forgot to mention to put some sealer back on it :D
 






Hey Guys

For all of you who are so eagerly following this thread (I'm sure there are lots of you!) I wanted to give a update and ask a stupid question.

So i took off the upper control arm this afternoon (not as easy as it looks in the stickt) after detaching the ball joint I could move the control arm up and down and what do you know the noises are right there. So It was the brushes, but the ball joint is shot anyway.

Only thing is now I messed up the chamber bolts? I guess my questions is does it matter if I forgot where the camber bolts go? When i get the new control arm / ball joint I'll take it to be aligned. I imagine its ok for a short drive right?

Thanks For everyone's Input on this.
 






The off set on both should be the same.
 






offset can be set to the same on both side, but in setting the caster the shop might change them when doing the alignment, these not only set caster as everybody believes, but it can also affect the camber, by tipping the arm a bit foreward as well as backwards a few degrees.
the shop will have a machine that tells them which way it has to go, ,
 






not really helpful but don't sit stationary and turn your steering wheel back and forth all the way like that. it is really bad for the pump
 






Featured Content

Back
Top