ANOTHER BATTERY DRAIN POST

[Stormchaser12]

I need help with my 2002 Explorer. XLT V8

My battery drains in a couple days after having been fully charged to 12.77. I went and purchased a new battery where I am getting the same results.

I did the negative amp test and am getting a 220 ma draw.
After letting the meter stay connected for 2 hours, there were no changes to the reading.
I went under the dash and pulled every fuse, one at a time while observing the readout. There were (2) fuses that dropped the amps.
1st fuse was #17 (a 15 amp fuse which handles : Delayed acc. coil : Battery saver : Interior Lamps "front & rear" : Glove Compartment lamp.
This fuse dropped the amps to 50 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
2nd fuse was #20 ( a 5 amp fuse which handles : PATS (??? no idea what this is) : Driver seat switch : Memory switch : Driver seat module : BSM (??? no idea what this is) : Sunload sensor.
This fuse dropped the amps to 30 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.

I want to add, after attaching the test wires to the battery and the meter, the reading I get is an almost instant .20 - .22 amps. (or 200 ma) and this measurement doesn't change, ever. unless I open a door, then they jump to numbers in the hundreds. When I close the door, within only a couple seconds after the lights go out, around 45 secs later, they fall back to .20 amps.

Any ideas?

I want to add, all lights go out after the normal 45 second cool-down. Glove box light shuts off.

The power seats can be moved even when there is no key in. Since I never crawled onto my back under the dash, nor remember moving the seat without the key in, is this normal?

One more thing. This just happened a few weeks ago around the same time as the battery drain. My AC developed a leak. It works fine when full of freon, 35 to 40 degrees. This wouldn't have anything to do with the battery drain, would it?

 

[imp]

I need help with my 2002 Explorer. XLT V8

My battery drains in a couple days after having been fully charged to 12.77. I went and purchased a new battery where I am getting the same results.

I did the negative amp test and am getting a 220 ma draw.
After letting the meter stay connected for 2 hours, there were no changes to the reading.
I went under the dash and pulled every fuse, one at a time while observing the readout. There were (2) fuses that dropped the amps.
1st fuse was #17 (a 15 amp fuse which handles : Delayed acc. coil : Battery saver : Interior Lamps "front & rear" : Glove Compartment lamp.
This fuse dropped the amps to 50 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.
2nd fuse was #20 ( a 5 amp fuse which handles : PATS (??? no idea what this is). PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM. UNLIKELY TO BE CAUSING PARASITIC DRAIN.

: Driver seat switch : Memory switch : Driver seat module : BSM (??? no idea what this is) : Sunload sensor.
This fuse dropped the amps to 30 ma.
I then reinserted the fuse.

I want to add, after attaching the test wires to the battery and the meter, the reading I get is an almost instant .20 - .22 amps. (or 200 ma) and this measurement doesn't change, ever. unless I open a door, then they jump to numbers in the hundreds. When I close the door, within only a couple seconds after the lights go out, around 45 secs later, they fall back to .20 amps. NORMAL.

Any ideas?

I want to add, all lights go out after the normal 45 second cool-down. Glove box light shuts off. THIS TRIAL SHOULD PROBABLY DONE A NUMBER OF IMES IN A ROW, TO ELIMINATE POSSIBILITY OF INTERMITTENTLY FAULTY OPERATION OF THE DELAYED ACCESSORY RELAY OR MODULE.

The power seats can be moved even when there is no key in. Since I never crawled onto my back under the dash, nor remember moving the seat without the key in, is this normal? YES

One more thing. This just happened a few weeks ago around the same time as the battery drain. My AC developed a leak. It works fine when full of freon, 35 to 40 degrees. This wouldn't have anything to do with the battery drain, would it?

NO

@Stormchaser12
Yours could be a tough solve. First, 200 ma is excessive, and will drain a battery pretty quickly, down to nothing in perhaps a week, figuring an approximately 50 Ampere-Hour battery capacity: 1 Ampere capability for 50 hours, in theory. You did not mention doing any work with the underhood fuses, in the so-called "Batter Junction Box". Many of those feed power to sub-fuses in the block in the car. Your final find of 30ma would be considered fairly acceptable for constant drain found in today's vehicles, given their large number of modules "kept alive". imp