Anti Theft Module Trouble, 1994 Explorer Ltd

[ASaabStory]

Have had this '94 Explorer for years, no issues! Seemed like fuel pump went out, mechanic said confirmed: it's the pump, replaced it, good for a few starts, then was told fuse, then on board computer, now says Anti-Theft Module. Old module was OE and had a burn mark (shorted out?) on it. Ordered a used, replacement Module online. Good for a few starts and now nothing. Told that replacement module had rust on it, was cleaned by my mechanic with electric contact cleaner, and he claims it could have shorted out, but shows no burn marks. I see comments about unplugging the '11 pin' connecter/harness on the module, but ask: Will either of the Modules I have work even though 'shorted' or if '11 Pin' is disconnected as noted in some other comments? Am I stuck in an endless cycle of ordering replacement modules? This will expand to cross-country as I cannot find another anywhere close to me in Florida. Is there some easy way to get around this module? Thanks so much for your input and this website!

 

[FR-425]

It's possible and likely that the module is just fine.

You probably have a "point of entry" failure that is causing the "no-start".

You can start by testing the doors.

Use the key to unlock each door several times. If one of the "anti-theft" switches in the door is bad it will sound the alarm and disable the engine. If you have the remote you can cancel the alarm by turning the key on and lock/unlock the doors with the remote then it will start. (you must be sitting in the drivers seat)

If you have an intermittent "anti-theft" point of entry switch, which it sounds like you do, you will have to keep trying until you find which door switch it is. (this includes the rear hatch and the hood.)

To test the hood switch leave the hood open and lock the truck using the remote. After 30 seconds the alarm will sound. If not that's your bad switch. (same switch that turn on/off the under hood light.) Not likely this one or your horn would blow'n every time you lock the truck. This one doubles as an "intrusion" as well as a warning that the under hood light is on when the hood is closed.

The "no-start" situation because the anti-theft has been triggered can always be over ridden with the key and remote or key only.

To reset with key only get in close the driver door lock then unlock and again lock the doors using the driver door lock switch. Then turn the key on and off twice and then start the engine.(you must be sitting in the drivers seat)

The door switches loo just like this one from a Ford Probe:
They just snap on the the end of the lock cylinder. And sometimes just pop off. Ask me how I know.. .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F32Z-14028-...W-ANTI-THEFT-PASSENGER-SIDE-NEW-/121350550546

Dealer only or junk yard for this one, unless you can find one on the eBay.

This one for the Probe may be an exact match as long as the wire is long enough, correct connectors etc. A dealer can tell you if the part numbers are interchangeable.

 

[FR-425]

Oh and once you do get it sorted be sure to get your money back from your mechanic. yikes!

 

[FR-425]

Okay now skip all that and first replace your fuel pump relay.

Start with the basics.

For now "assume" the anti theft is good.

If you lock the truck and the anti theft light comes on steady then it should be good.

If the anti theft light flashes then there is a problem.

 

[ASaabStory]

FR-425 Thanks so much for the info! I really appreciate it! Will the keyless remote be good to go after this? My mechanic is a very cool guy that I can work with.

 

[FR-425]

FR-425 Thanks so much for the info! I really appreciate it! Will the keyless remote be good to go after this? My mechanic is a very cool guy that I can work with.

Yes, Does it not work currently?

 

[ASaabStory]

Nope! Doesn't work right now. Currently using the key for access.

 

[FR-425]

Ah, Okay,

To program the fob:

In the jack storage you will find a grey electrical connector not connected to anything. (may be black also may have a cap on it)

What you do is short this connector with a paper clip. The doors may unlock when you put the paper clip in "no worries" proceed.

Then get in, leave the driver door open (unlocked) turn the ignition to "on" do NOT start the engine.

Now press and hold the lock button on the fob until the doors lock.

cycle it, unlock, lock, a couple times. Then turn the key off and go back and remove the paper clip.

Done:

Might want ot go ahead and replace the battery in the fob. It's a common batt CR2032 It's the big one same as the cmos batt in a PC

 

[ASaabStory]

Thanks, I'll try that! I'll get back on here tomorrow or next day after trying it!

 

[FR-425]

This may be the cause of your original problem btw.

If you replace the remote module and don't program it it will screw with the anti-theft. .. ..

 

[ASaabStory]

I'll try that! Sometimes we overlook the easiest solutions! Thanks!

 

[ASaabStory]

Spoke to my mechanic yesterday. Looks like the Original Anti-Theft Module was still in this vehicle and the card had a black burn mark on it, like it had shorted out. He found and pulled another Module and this one had some rust on it. He sprayed some contact cleaner on it, plugged it in, said it started twice, now won't start. He said he ordered another card, his expense, but hasn't received it yet. Any ideas?

 

[FR-425]

Just gonna have to wait till he finds another module.

Seriously doubt you can just order one from Ford. reman maybe, most likely junk yard.

 

[ASaabStory]

Happened to get one in yesterday afternoon, ordered online from Oregon. This one looks to be pristine. We'll try this one today. Hopefully, this'll do the trick!

 

[FR-425]

 

[ASaabStory]

Well, still a no go, won't start at all. System is blaming doors, hood, back hatch. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[ASaabStory]

Open any door, the hood, the hatch, anything that has a door switch, alarm goes off. At least I know the battery is not dead...

 

[FR-425]

There is a reset button on the anti-theft module as well. (or a shorting plug just like the door lock receiver I don't recall)

With all this "tampering" it's just doing it's job and preventing the "criminal" from stealing your truck...

Disconnecting the battery won't make it go away either.

You need to "establish human presence" and "ownership presence" I believe that's how they worded it.

IIRC the procedure for replacing the anti-theft and/or the remote key-less modules is about the same as the method I described earlier.

With the exception of resetting the anti theft at the correct time.

So something like: short the reprogram/add a new remote plug with the paper clip.

Then before doing anything else press the reset on the anti-theft. (establish human presence)

Then get in turn the key on (prove ownership) then press the lock button on the remote to finish the remote programming.

I may very well have the order wrong. but you guys should be able to try some different combinations to get it out of lock-down mode.

I went through this as you can tell. The Ford dealership was not a one-stop shop to get it resolved either. But I did get enough information from the service adviser, mechanic, and parts counter to get it sorted out.

It's been four years since with no further issues, but the details are getting fuzzy. Really should have written this all down. (new owner rookie mistake on my part)

My initial issue was that I bought the truck with no remote and just wanted to get one. Bought one from Ford and no-go.

And the saga began.

Bad receiver was my guess, so I nabbed one from the junk yard put it in and blamo anti-theft thought I was steal'n the ride. (the original remote module was bad BTW) Probably why the original owner no longer had the remote.

Armed with what info I had, I fiddled with it for a couple hours till I found the right combo to get it working right.

Hope you can get it sorted without too much brain twisting.

 

[FR-425]

OOh OOh!

I remember! (get'n old)

First: Use the key to unlock all the doors. If they already unlocked go ahead and use the door switch to lock them. (may want to unplug the horn for a minute for this one) Then go around and unlock all with the key.

DO disconnect the battery. (clears the "no-start" from the PCM)

When you reconnect the battery the the anti-theft will again send the "no-start" condition to the PCM. But is now ready for the next step.

Reconnect the battery and close the hood.

Now go around and lock all the doors with the key. Wait 2 minutes.

Next unlock ONLY the drivers door (with key), get in close the door, put the key in and turn it on. (do not start).

Now lock the drivers door using the door switch only.

Turn the key back off and wait 30 seconds. Now the truck should start.

After all this you can then go back to trying to get the remote working.

I mentioned this before but slightly different procedure. I think the difference was because the module had been replaced and not just a accidental trigger of the anti-theft.

 

[FR-425]

If your getting confused I apologize for that. Totally understandable, me too.

But do think you have a situation that is about procedure not bad parts.