anyone ever had a problem with raybestos brake pads?

[bipolarbob]

I have found that the high-end brake pads have a plastic coating on the metal part(not the pad itself ) and that they do not fit properly.The inside pad will not retract and cooks your rotor.At first I thought it was the calipers so I replaced them.And the rotors.Then the rotors and the back pads went again.I figured it out when I went to put my second set of rotors and third set of pads on, and noticed the paint on the old pads was chipped.I tried the new pads on , and sure enough, they would not retract.So my brakes were on the whole time.Probably contributed to my tranny going too.Anyone else had simular troubles?

 

[BradE.]

What do you mean plastic coating?

Are you talking abut the plastic wrap that covers the adhesive on the back of the pad? If so, yeah that has to be peeled off before installing the pads.

 

[bipolarbob]

no I am not an Idiot...it is a plastic red paint .the Lordco guy says it is to dissipate the heat but it is very thick.When I took it off the new pads with a wire wheel they fit fine.Just where they touch the spindle.

 

[BradE.]

Hmmm, never seen anything like that. Maybe try a different brand of pads next time. I've had pretty good luck with Bendix. They are also the OEM supplier to Ford. The bad news is, not many stores stock Bendix stuff.

 

[rydinhigh]

Im starting to learn that getting parts from the dealer is actually better in the long run than after market.

 

[bipolarbob]

I don't get the cheap aftermarket stuff...allways the best stuff.OEM is usually not that good.If it was I would not have broken it in the first place

 

[DarkFox1]

I'm running raybestos pads on my c10, given the truck doesn't actually have an engine yet but the pads fit into place just fine, they look like well made thick high quality products, I was told by the restoration company that they are the best in the business short of baer and other ridiculously costly brands

 

[Nate1]

How about stillen pads?

 

[ld50]

I`m confused.

The pads aren`t supposed to "retract" they are kept right against the rotors until you apply the brakes (well within a couple thou). Could they really be jammed in place by the paint to the point of exerting force against the rotor?
It seems like you would need something actually holding them tight against the rotor to cause a problem, like a stuck caliper.

I`ve seen brake cylinders that don`t want to retract, and you will smell your brakes cooking because they are being pushed slightly.


I guess it wouldn`t take much to file the paint off where it might grab before installing them though...

 

[bipolarbob]

don't be confused.This is not really complicated.When the back pads were pushed against the rotors they stayed there.Not a difficult concept.I originally thought it was the calipers too, and replaced them but the problem persisted.Both of my rotors cracked on the back side and both back pads were worn out and cracked while the front ones remained intact. When I scraped off the coating the problem went away.

 

[Rydin Dirtay]

Re: Re: anyone ever had a problem with raybestos brake pads?

Originally posted by Gimp
Yes, twice. Both times on front-wheel-drive vehicles and in both instances the problem was that the aftermarket Raybestos pads had a thicker backing plate and thicker pad material than the O.E. pads which helped contribute to caliper misalignment. In both instances, got the O.E. pads from the dealer and everything was hunky dory.

yeah this is wierd, i have the same pads. the first month i had them they warped, now when i hit my brakes it feels like the front end is gona wiggle itself apart. i think ill get different pads.. i hope the rotors are fine i cant affort much right now.

 

[ld50]

When I scraped off the coating the problem went away.

this is good info, I don`t remember right now if I have Raybestos on the front, but I do remember when I changed them it was a tight fit for the inboard pad. Not only that, but the old pads definitely wore faster on that side. I might repack my bearings soon so I`ll be checking that out.

-cheers

 

[huskyfan23]

Anybody use(d) their Brutestop rotors? How are they?

 

[Maniak]

I haven't used the raybestos brute stop rotors, but I have used the brute stop pads.. and I got them replaced and still have the new set sitting in the shed as an "emergency" pair.

I had a bad experience with them.. The "meat" of the pad seperated from the backing plate which left me we very little brakes (and I was in the mountains).. Its a good thing I always have a spare set of pads in the truck.. I pulled over (gouged my $300 rotors since there was no pad left on 1 pad) and replaced the pads with my spares. I had < 200 miles on that set of pads... I haven't bought raybestos again.. (I use performance friction pads and haven't had any seperate... I replace them every 40k miles... they aren't "bad" but I change it when I want to, not when I need to)

~Mark

 

[rfuree11]

ive had problems with raybestos, too. i had a set wear out in 3000 miles. i heard a squeaking and figures that the pads were just noisy and that they would get settled in. well, that squeaking (i thought it was the fronts, didnt even think about the backs, so i inspected the fronts and everything was alright). the squeaking stayed and eventually turned into a grinding, so i stopped at my nearest auto parts store other than pep boys and bought some pro-stops. its been about 18k miles since and no problems. i went to pep boys because the pads had a lifetime warranty angaist manufacurers defects to return them and they said that padwear wasnt a defect, and were pretty damn rude about it, too.

i have now boycotted both pep boys and reybestos