Here's how you change the bulbs (I'm assuming you have an automatic trans):
1. Remove the 2 screws from the radio bezel and pull it out about an inch.
2. Remove the 4 screws from the driver's side lower dash trim (2 of which hold the hood release handle) and remove the trim panel.
3. Remove the 5 bolts that hold the metal plate behind the lower trim panel, and remove the plate.
4. Unhook the thin, red wire/cable that hooks on to the shifter. It goes to the gear indicator. Be very careful not to break it.
5. Remove the single screw that holds the cable adjuster under the column.
6. Remove the three screws at the top of the instrument cluster trim and any more you see around it's perimeter.
7. Remove the cluster trim. You don't need to unplug the headlight switch to do this, but you can. Drop your tilt-wheel all the way down and place your shifter lever in LOW (don't forget to set the parking brake first).
8. Remove the 4 screws holding the instrument cluster to the dash.
9. Pull the cluster loose from the left side enough to get your hand behind it. start fishing the gear indicator cable up through the dash.
10. Reach behind the cluster and release and unplug the 3 electrical connectors you'll find there.
11. Pull the cluster toward you and fish the gear indicator cable out with the cluster.
There are 6 #194 gauge illumination bulbs. They twist out with your fingers, or pliers. You will be reusing the black base part. I like to test the bulbs before installing them in the cluster, as you can get a bad bulb and you don't want to have to so this job twice. If installing LED bulbs they will only work if inserted the correct way, so test them before reinstalling the cluster.
That's pretty much it. If I forgotten anything it should be obvious as you work. The cluster trim panel and lower dash trim panel both use the same push-in clips that the radio bezel uses in their upper corners.
Tip: If your gear indicator doesn't point exactly to the gear you're in, this is an excellent time to adjust it. There's a small thumb wheels where it's screwed to the dash. it's also a good opportunity to remove the lens from the cluster to get the dust and dead bugs out.
Note the black knobs on the below pic of the back of the cluster. Those are the illumination bulb locations. you can also see the locations of the 3 electrical connections.