Are spindles interchangeable between each model year?

[EAP]

We replaced the front rotors and pads this past January. We repacked the wheel bearings along with new seals in the process. Well the bearings just blew out on the passenger side. What a mess! I got all the old pieces out except for the race on the outer wheel bearings. It seems like it has welded itself to the spindle.

I don't suppose there is a good way to getting this off? Even if we did would the spindle still be acceptable? How about the rotor itself. The inner bearings seemed to do little if any damage; it was the outer bearings that disintegrated. The damage appears more to the spindle where it (outer race) is welded than to the rotor. We used a premium Napa rotor. What to look for in a rotor for signs of damage?

The vehicle is a 1991 3.0L RWD Aerostar. Could other model years' spindles with RWD be substituted in place? I read that there are three bolts holding the spindle asembly in place. The Haynes books suggests a two jaw puller on the lower arm (ball joint) and tie rod connection. What size puller (for both)?

It says to torque back to specs...what are the torque specs?

Is it difficult to install the new spindle in place of the old one?

Thanks. Nice forum. I read a number of the posts in the general search site that comes up.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Could you post a picture of the damage?

 

[Jose A.]

go to a salvage yard with the proper tools, find an Aerostar and you can practice spindle removal. I think yes, other years' spindles are the same, but don't take that as the last word. What I think happens, is that Ford updates the same part with different Part Numbers year by year, but again, that is just my speculation, so correct me if I'm wrong.

to torque bolts and nuts, you need a Torquing Wrench. (you can get a decent one for $12.99 at Harbor Freight Tools). it is a large heavy ratcheting wrench for ½" sockets, but you can use adapter reducers from 1/2" to 3/8" or to 1/4" to use smaller sockets.

you dial the required torque in the tool, whether it's 12 foot pounds or 25 foot pounds or 80 foot pounds, then gently start to tighten the nut or bolt until the tool reaches the set torque, the wrench I'm talking about will "click" and stop tightening by itself when it reaches the preset torque. The Manual usually has a page for torque amounts for each part that requires it. Because there is about a 5% to 10% "error" in these torque wrenches, I always go a little bit more, for example, if the torquing spec is 24 foot lbs., I set the tool closer to 25 ft.lbs. and the hell with it, better tighter than looser.

 

[EAP]

Thanks for the information so far. Sorry I can not provide a photo. The issue that has stopped the progress of repair is: Not knowing whether, in fact, spindles from other model years are able to be substituted. I tried to find out more with google and have not had luck. Or getting the fused-on outer race from the outer wheel bearing off the spindle.

How difficult is the project of removing and replacing a spindle assembly? I have done some repairs before but not this one. A friend of mine seems to think I should still try to get the old race off if I can.

I am concerned about having the proper tools for this kind of a job. Also the two-jaw pullers...are they up to the task of removing the old and replacing the new. And for that matter, does one need to use the two-jaw puller to attach a new spindle assembly to the vehicle? My Haynes manual only talks about using one to remove the tie rod end connection to the steering knuckle and to the lower control arm ball joint?

Does it take a superman's strength to get these apart and back together?

With three connection points, it doesn't seem like it would be a major project. I know it is not a minor one either.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Jose A.]

How difficult is the project of removing and replacing a spindle assembly? I have done some repairs before but not this one. A friend of mine seems to think I should still try to get the old race off if I can.
Does it take a superman's strength to get these apart and back together?
With three connection points, it doesn't seem like it would be a major project. I know it is not a minor one either. Thanks for all the help.

I would try to remove the race, unless the spindle is obviously damaged; it doesn't take superman to remove the bolts and parts, but big wrenches help and give you super-leverage when you need it;

here's a suggestion: call a mobile mechanic who advertises in your local Craigslist under "Services". I've had good luck with these mechanics. Ask if he/she can remove the race, (yes, there are She mobile mechanics and let me tell you, they can be good mechanics!). Ask how much $$, these people usually have all sorts of tools in their van or car, including acetylene, (to heat the race and knock it off).

last year I paid $40.00 to a mobile mechanic, an older but experienced man, who came to my house and did a complete front brake job in my '92 Aerostar which I was going to sell, (new rotors, new calipers, new wheel bearings, packing the bearings, new pads, including flushing the old brake fluid and bleeding the system, with me supplying all the parts he told me to get ahead). I gave him a $20.00 tip and made lunch for him. He did a perfect job, no issues, no callbacks. He took all the old parts because he can sell them for the metal. So we both won.

 

[EAP]

Good sugggestion with the mobile mechanic. Sounds like you found a real diamond in the rough, so-to-speak.

I wanted to post an update for others. The biggest chore was getting the old spindle assembly off. Also found out that spindle assemblies were universal for the Aerostar Rear Wheel Drive vehicles at least from 1989 - 1997 model years. Was able to find one with little difficulty.

The most time consuming exercises were the learning curve for this type of repair and fighting the old one off. Also coming to the conclusion that if any part of the race is fused on the spindle, time to get a replacement spindle. Don't waste your time trying to cut, chisel, burn or wrench the old one off. I read somewhere else that also if the spindle shows signs of being burned (blue or black) the integrity of the part may be compromised and it could become a safety issue. Just requoting what I read. No expert.

Removing the old spindle the tie rod adjusting nut and separating the lower ball joint from the proved the most challenging. Ended up using a torch to heat the adjusting nut along with lots of penetrating oil finally unstuck it. Be careful not to heat up the various rubber pieces around it.

Could not find a two jaw puller strong enough to separate the lower ball joint. One of them did spearate the tie rod end from its ball joint. Ended up using a pickle fork for ball joints (Haynes manual says not to use this type of tool as it could damage the boots). I greased up the pickle fork and carefully wedged it in and it did the job pretty easily.

I also ended up going with a new rotor even though the present one was little more than 6 months old. The new rotor had inner and outer races already installed so that saved some time. I used Lucas Oil Green wheel bearing grease to pack the new bearings. They claim to have the best with the highest heat point of 560 degrees. Used Napa parts all the way.

Hope this helps...

I also have a question...So I do not repeat this same scenario, I plan to "replace" the wheel bearings on the driver's side rotor. I can not remember whether or not the rotors we replaced in January (2012) also had new races pre-installed. I plan to ask Napa (as that is where I bought them) if that was the case.

My question is whether I can just replace the wheel bearings and inner races and keep the old outside races that are already mounted? I know it is a bad idea to use old bearings in new races, but what about new bearings in used races? Again these may be around 6 months old.

Thanks for a great forum. I wish I had known about it a lot sooner. Have owned three Aerostars since 1997.