Automatic Transmission problem, slip in D or R but works fine in 2 or1.

[Dayton86]

Ok thanks in advanced for any help.

2001 Ranger 3.0 V6 with 5 speed (Door tag D) transmission.
88,000-ish miles on the truck, but it was a truck used for meter reading for most of its life with it being used door to door and shifting between P and D constantly. Luckily with it being an old work truck it came with complete and detailed records, and it has been well maintained according to what I see. Here is a quick run through of the Trans related records, all done by the dealer.

82121- Hard to shift, shift cable replaced and adjusted
68012- Stuck in gear, replace A tube, AA plunger, and A bushing
56588- Gear selector not working, replaced with new indicator and power flush
49095- Gear selector stuck in D, replace A tube, AA plunger, and A bushing
28815- Trans not shifting, transmission was replaced
12151- Trans slipping, replaced trans range switch

So it shows the tranny only really has 60,000 on it.

Ok now the problem.
Taking it to work last week in an attempt to pass someone on the highway (around 45 to pass at 55ish), it downshifted and the gear never seemed to catch, everytime I would give it gas it would downshift and slip, if I only gave it a little it would hold only if pedal was light. Any kind of power and it would slip in any gear at that point. Especially when trying to take off from a dead stop. Now if it was manually put in to 2 or 1 it would take off with no slip and would shift normal from 1 to 2 but as soon as it was put in D or R it would slip and barely move. I limped it in 1 and 2 slowly home about 4 miles where it has sat since. No out of the ordinary noises. No delay in going into D or R before or now with problem.
No check engine light, O/D light only flashed a couple of times on the limping of the truck home, but no code scanner can seem to pick any codes up.

Ok what I have done so far and learned
Pulled pan and valve body assuming it is related to that area.
Fluid was nice and red, transparent, and smelled normal, bottom of pan was clean for the most part except for a very light black greasy coating about the thickness of paper, and it was on solenoids too. Otherwise nothing else, valve body gasket is perfect, it already has the update gasket and kit, and all the solenoids Ohm within specs except for the EPC has been weird in that regard with Ohm readings, in order, 120,20,5.7, and 4.5 and it now seems to stay at 4.5.

I have seen where some say most seem to go bad anywhere from 60-80 thousand miles, but that would seem like its right on the dot for 60 thousand. The screen on the EPC is clean too. But it really would seem to be the culprit as low line pressure seems to be my problem.

Thanks and if I missed anything please let me know.

 

[dogfriend]

A couple of years ago we had a couple of threads on this issue. We had a trans engineer from Borg Warner involved in the discussion - his opinion is that the EPC solenoid used in the 5R series trans is susceptible to contamination which will cause it to stick and fail. So, I think you are probably on the right track.

A couple of threads:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174202&highlight=EPC+solenoid

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175065&highlight=EPC+solenoid

 

[swetrid]

Ford Has a couple of bulletins about epc solenoid issues depending on the years. It is a possibility this is your concern. Could be internal problem or seal/clutch problem. Usually when you put in manual mode the trans will work normally because the bands apply and increase the holding power.

 

[Dayton86]

A couple of years ago we had a couple of threads on this issue. We had a trans engineer from Borg Warner involved in the discussion - his opinion is that the EPC solenoid used in the 5R series trans is susceptible to contamination which will cause it to stick and fail. So, I think you are probably on the right track.

A couple of threads:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174202&highlight=EPC+solenoid

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175065&highlight=EPC+solenoid

Thanks sir, I have read those before and even found a few places online that claim to sell the Borg-Warner part. Though I can't seem to find any confirmation online that it is supposed to be available for sale. I can't even find it on Borg-Warner's website catalog. But here is the parts I have managed to find, maybe someone knows more

D56431a or A56431a or D56432a with the first being the one I find the most.

I will happily try the new part and see how it works as long as I know its real. Even if it turns out to not be the issue I can at least know that I can try further on the list and keep this process of elimination going. I just hope this does it as my other truck decided to mess up in the same 3 day period and while I can limp along in it, pretty decent oil leak, I would rather get it back on the road so I can spend the time to fix both trucks right.

Thanks again sir, and thanks to swetrid too.

 

[dogfriend]

I was one of the ones who got the new BW part. A group of us were given the EPC so we could provide feedback on the part. I installed it at approximately 116k miles, I have 121k miles now. I do not know if BW ever offered it for sale or not. Mine is still working well, I believe that the shifts are a bit more positive (particularly downshifts on hills), but it was not a huge difference.

If I couldn't find the BW EPC, then I would get a stock EPC and make sure to use a new filter. You could consider using an external filter as well to get any contamination that could clog the new EPC.

 

[Jack Flash]

I also received one of the "test" EPC's. I've put approx. 40K on it and have no complaints. I've probably towed vehicles on a tow dolly at least 4K miles of that 40K.

My Ranger p/u has 182K, all original parts except the water pump and an occasional DPFE replacement.

,
,

J...routine maintenance, done religiously, is the key.

 

[Dayton86]

Thanks, for all the help. Got a little more info for ya'll. Finally got my other truck working right so I could spend a little time to think on this one and this came up. I had thought about the possibility of the filter collasping but unfortunately I tossed it without much thought at the time.

After it started slipping as you know it slips in Drive and Reverse, but it seems to slip less (more grip) in reverse than in drive. Almost twice as much difference. That would seem normal as reverse is supposed to have higher pressures than drive.

Also it slipped a couple of times in the past when down shifting like mentioned before but it always went back to working right once throttle was let off.

I am going to replace the EPC & solenoid, filter, pan gasket & drain bolt, and hopefully, just maybe, put in a superior shift kit. Then see what happens, hopefully then I can make it to a real shop to get scanned or full diagnosis.

Now the other truck is back up, I can take my time, but its unfortunately stuck on ramps now. I am going to redrop the pan hopefully soon and see if I missed anything.



Thanks again.

 

[Dayton86]

On the "Test EPC" any of ya'll remember what it look like? Is this it?

Let me know and I'll look into it some more.

 

[dogfriend]

The BW part is on the left. It is the one with a serial number engraved by hand into the side of the housing. The original EPC is on the right.

 

[Dayton86]

Finally got it diagnosed, broken low gear sprag. It would seem the Tax return santa is bringing me a tranny this year. Thanks.