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Bad Driveline Noise 96 XLT 5.0 AWD

I equated them to rotors because that's what the sound made. It sounded symmetrical as if one turn of the rotors made a slapping noise. When I first checked my driveshaft it felt tight because it had pressure on it. It's best to get the tires off the ground and then check for play. As for the noise it made, it was different as the deterioration progressed. For the little bit of time it takes to pull it you can rule out a lot by doing so. If yours is still original she's outlived it's lifespan.
 



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Here's the thing. If you remove the driveshaft to diagnose and assure the u-joints are the problem, you're also taking the load off the front output shaft of the transfer case. If the problem is in the drive chain like I suspect, it's not gonna make any noise. Follow?

Like I said, I'm gonna have the u-joints done on it anyway. There's three on that shaft. I know a shop who will do them for around $75 for the front shaft and $50 for the rear shaft. The "shaft" and all the other components are fine unless you snap them (which I obviously didn't). A rebuilt shaft just has the u-joints replaced. (You kinda got burned paying 200 for it)
 






No just gotta tear it down and see if it has 1 or 2 blue links. Funny My S10 has been through alot and i'm not done with it yet. I have the Bronco II so when it breaks i have something to drive and pick up parts.
 






No just gotta tear it down and see if it has 1 or 2 blue links. Funny My S10 has been through alot and i'm not done with it yet. I have the Bronco II so when it breaks i have something to drive and pick up parts.

That is not the answer I was hoping for. Maybe I'll just buy both chains and return the one I don't need. The quantity of time the truck will be down is a huge factor. It's my only car and I drive it for a living.
 






It should have the 1 blue link chain, that's the one that is suppose to be in it.
I understand that. hate waiting on parts. the seller i posted for the rebuild kit ships fast.
If it is ordered before 3 pm eastern it ships that day.
 






It's pretty odd all around that one model transfer case can have different parts options. Makes me wonder if Borg Warner didn't maybe change it later into production (maybe because of this problem). Either way, I'd hate to guess and be wrong. Who knows if one of the previous owners didn't have this t-case replaced with a junkyard one some time before.
 






My 97 has 96 parts from the factory. Including the engine. In 96 they had the internal EGR, which yours has. Mine does to. The later 97's didn't.
 






Yeah, Probably an early 97. Not really the same as a Borg Warner transfer case (which ford did NOT build) not being 100% universal with the part number.
 






Yeah, that's what I kept seeing in price for them too. I'm probably gonna go the rebuild route. Is there any good way to know which chain you have without taking the case apart? I'd really like to order all the parts before taking it out. Like a vin code search or something?

And really? What do you want with that screwed over Isuzu S10 anyway? (Mostly joking)

I had weird vibes 0n my 96 5.0L AWD and thought it was the tcase. As it turns out, it was a bad ujoint that I simply couldn't see the problem. I still have the AWD tcase if you are interested. I am away from home for a few weeks, but I could let it go for $100 and you pay the actual shipping.
 






That's not a bad price on it. Is it a new one you bought or the old one you replaced? What's the mileage on it if it's used? Just so I can get an idea of shipping costs, where do you live, roughly?

I'm strongly considering just rebuilding the one I've got. I cant argue with a brand new chain and bearings, especially not if I can get it all for around $200. Still working on saving up my pennies tough. Wanna get all 5 u-joints replaced while I've got it out too, probably run me another $125 for the joints and have them pressed into the shafts.
 






That's not a bad price on it. Is it a new one you bought or the old one you replaced? What's the mileage on it if it's used? Just so I can get an idea of shipping costs, where do you live, roughly?

I'm strongly considering just rebuilding the one I've got. I cant argue with a brand new chain and bearings, especially not if I can get it all for around $200. Still working on saving up my pennies tough. Wanna get all 5 u-joints replaced while I've got it out too, probably run me another $125 for the joints and have them pressed into the shafts.

It is the one I pulled out. I live in Northern Colorado. I figure shipping would be around $50-70 due to the size and weight. I will be back home and could ship on the 9th. Paypal works for me and you are protected against fraud. PM me your email and I can send you some pix.
 






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