Battery is shot every 6 months for 3 years now? Ideas?

[Pchild]

I bought a Wal-Mart battery, (I know, I know first mistake). Every 6 months it dies... I take it to Wal-Mart, they replace it. But after 6 batteries over 3 years, I'm starting to think that my car is killing them, not the battery.

It obviously charges a little, otherwise the battery wouldn't work for 6 months.

Any ideas what I could check to see if my car is the problem? Alternator check?

The door switch on the drivers door is falty but the light shuts off after 10 mins or so, that shouldn't kill a battery to where it won't even hold a charge.

My last battery was brand new in July 2010, and it's 100% dead this morning.

Thanks for the tips/leads.

2003 Explorer Limited, every option.

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome to the forum!

I would definitely get the alternator checked.

I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, etc. Most recently all 4 windows stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 2 broken wires and repaired them and all is back to normal!

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for removing the door panel and checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Hope this helps out. :biggthump

 

[Pchild]

How would you recommend checking the alternator? I have a voltage meter, or I think I've heard Auto-Zone Advertise alternator testing... should I call the dealer and ask them? (Out of warranty, so probably costly)

Thanks for the help. I read the door switch replacement thread, I'm going to have to do that soon.

 

[BigRondo]

How would you recommend checking the alternator? I have a voltage meter, or I think I've heard Auto-Zone Advertise alternator testing... should I call the dealer and ask them? (Out of warranty, so probably costly)

Thanks for the help. I read the door switch replacement thread, I'm going to have to do that soon.

Are your battery terminals tight? Is there corrosion on the terminals or the cables?

Here is a good link for testing the alternator.

AutoZone can test the alternator with it in the Ex and can also do a bench test. With the bench test you will have to remove it from the Ex and bring it to them.

I would call them first to make sure they can do it. Most local auto parts stores offer this service as a courtesy to their customers.

Good luck and be sure to keep us posted.

 

[Black Dynomite]

Check the battery is securely stowed too. Excessive vibrations can shorten battery life.

 

[Pchild]

I will keep you posted. The more I think about it, (and talk to mechanic buddies) the more I'm thinking it isn't the alternator. The battery wouldn't work for 6 months if the alternator wasn't doing it's job.

I'm thinking something is draining the battery (possibly the bad drivers door switch). I wonder what circuits aren't shut if it thinks the door is open.

Perhaps that switch not working combined with a battery that's cold/worn down some doesn't retain enough charge to start, and or drains it completely dead over night.

I think switching that door switch is the first step.

Are your battery terminals tight? Is there corrosion on the terminals or the cables?

Here is a good link for testing the alternator.

AutoZone can test the alternator with it in the Ex and can also do a bench test. With the bench test you will have to remove it from the Ex and bring it to them.

I would call them first to make sure they can do it. Most local auto parts stores offer this service as a courtesy to their customers.

Good luck and be sure to keep us posted.

 

[xtoolmaker]

Had a similar problem with a Lincoln Town Car .Battery went dead, replaced it, went dead charged it went dead several weeks later.Repeat this for a few months until the wife calls me and says as she is opening the trunk she hears something running She takes it to the Lincoln deal where the find a wire in the trunk behind the carpet that goes to the fuel pump solenoid chewed threw by a mouse.When something in the trunk would push the carpet the wire would ground out and the solenoid would run and cause the battery to drain.Tape the wire ,mouse trap set dead mouse end of problem.

 

[Pchild]

I hate electrical issues. Such a pain to trace down.

 

[synyster]

I hate electrical issues. Such a pain to trace down.

It is a pain..but in a wierd sort of way its also fun. The thrill of the hunt I guess. Cause once you find it and fix it you feel like you could solve anything lol.

 

[jakedrew]

nothing wrong with walmart batteries . I ran one for 4 years in my car and then 6 years in our plow truck. Still going strong.

good luck and keep us updated.

 

[bcbid]

I looked for almost a six months before I found a penny in the cigarette lighter.

 

[boominXplorer]

The rectifier inside the alternator could go bad and cause the alt to overcharge the battery. If you hook a multimeter up to the battery while the truck is running you should get no more than 14.4v. Also try revving the motor while checking the voltage.

Also do you have ANY wiring on the truck that was not factory? If so would double check and make sure a wire isn't grounding out or crossed some how.