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Bought a 2004 explorer (DIYing many issues lots of questions)

calan

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 explorer sport xls
I bought a 2004 explorer that was previously wrecked. All new body parts have been put on . But it still has alot of issues im going to try to attempt to fix myself as much as possible.

The ball joints ( upper and lower) were just replaced and I was told do not have a zerk ?

What is a zerk, is it needed? If so where can I get it?

I was also told by a shop my wheel bearings on both front wheels are bad, I jack the truck up and the wheel did have play and pivoted slightly , Im thinking perhaps the axle bolt might just be loose? If not Im going to attempt to change the bearings myself.

I also have issues with the 4x4 . when backing out it tends to stick and jolt but if you mess with the auto/high/low buttons it seems to fix it. I was wondering if this is a transmission problem.

If you have any comments or any helpful information it would be much appreciated .
 



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A grease zerk is approximately 1/4" fitting that allows a grease gun to attach to lubricate a joint. Ball joints typically do not have grease zerks. Ford does not install zerks on the steering linkage (tie rod ends) but aftermarket replacements tend to have them.

With 4x4 you will not have an axle bolt. More than likely the axle bearing (hub bearing) is worn and will require replacement. These are a bit of work and somewhat costly.

Is it sticking and jolting when you are turning tight and slow? If so, this may be your rear differential. It may require grease replacement including a friction modifier that allows the clutch plates to slide easier and prevent the jolting.
 






When the truck is turning slow and tight it does jolt and feels like the wheels are going different speeds .

It also just sticks and jolts when reversing? could this be a symptom of the same problem?
 






Where can i get a zerk/grease fitting for this 2004 explorer and its after market replacement ball joints?
 






Where can i get a zerk/grease fitting for this 2004 explorer and its after market replacement ball joints?

Buy "Moog" ball joints, tie rods etc, they come with grease zerks/nipples so you can re-grease them at regular maintenance intervals or oil changes. You can buy them at most auto parts stores, Napa and Advance Auto Parts stores for sure. They are quality parts.
 






Okay , what is the torque LBS specification for the front hub assembly\ axle nut? Ive read varying answers. The socket i got for it is 32 mm its not snug but it works.
 












calan, you may not actually NEED the zerks. There are 2 kinds of aftermarket ball joints: (1) those that come with a zerk and require grease from time to time; and (2) those without zerks that are considered "maintenance free." Lack of a zerk on a ball joint is not necessarily a problem or a bad thing. You just need to take a really close look at them to see which kind you have. If you see no zerk, and nothing on the part of the ball joint where the ball is actually housed that looks like an empty screw hole that should have a zerk screwed into it, then you have no worries. The only way you need to worry about that zerk issue is if you see an empty hole with grease oozing out of it.

Seems like the others have you covered on the wheel bearing issue. If it is just a loose nut torque it up and see what happens. If it is a wheel bearing, they aren't all that hard to do-just take some time.

The 4X4 issue COULD be the issue FordFool2 mentioned or it could be a separate issue involving a worn transfer case that would require a rebuild/replacement. I'm leaning toward the transfer case being your problem because you say that you can make it stop by manipulating the 4X4 buttons on the dash. If that is the case, you likely can make the jolting/jerking stop by shifting it into 4WD and then OUT of it right away so that only the 2WD is engaged. The transfer case is what allows the driveshaft which turns the front wheels to engage and supply power. Usually a bad transfer case will give you no problems when you're not in 4WD but will jump/jolt/jerk in 4WD. If you can verify that to be the case, then your transfer case is the problem.
 






I have my truck sitting on jackstands. I took the wheel hubs out,( they were a pain they were rusted onto the knuckle. The new wheel hubs i bought are missing the oring, is it imperative to use the oring? if not where can i get them im seen them for 24 online but that seems over priced.

pet 575 how hard is a transfer case to rebuild? can i DIY it?

also is it possible that both my left and right hubs being bad made the 4x4 engage prematurely?
 






Maybe I've been doing something wrong all this time but I don't recall ever seeing any O-ring when doing a wheel bearing replacement. I can't answer that one for you.

As for the transfer case, there are a few threads floating around here that discuss it. You're essentially taking it apart and replacing the viscous coupler. Finding the actual viscous coupler might be the tricky part.

Can't answer the last one. COULD be possible but I'd say it probably has more to do with these vehicles' propensity for drivetrain issues.
 






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