Bought a 94 XLT--got a deal | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Bought a 94 XLT--got a deal

GroupExploder

Member
Joined
May 4, 2018
Messages
37
Reaction score
1
Location
Clovis, Cal
City, State
Fresno, California
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT Eddie Bauer
99 XLT
Short story, the shops have been ripping the PO off big time. New trans, AC, brakes, etc etc. They told her it had a cracked head, She parked it.

It smogged out, it does not overheat, it uses no oil--no fluids--wont tell you who little I paid for it, but 3 numbers and less.

I see red bushings on the long control arm.

This morning I can see on the passenger side where it looks like that bushing is moving around. I can see shiny metal where that big bushing has been moving.

Do I just tighten it from the bolt behind that brace? Could it just be a slop install?

Over and above the 99 XLT I own, I can see the difference between the old style steering box and the rack and pinion. My 99 is tight, this 94 steering is sloppy.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Good for you! In the future, good condition old Explorers are going to bring top dollar, similar to the way the early Brocos are today.
 






Hobby, kids say its OCD, I say its FUN. Retired, single debt free so what harm does it do?
OK, so it clutters my driveway and my neighbors get bent, gft, I've been here since 78,
they arrived debt to their noses in the 90's.

Get used to it, or drop a cool $1m AND buy me out
 






that bushing on the control arm sits right where the exhaust comes together I think it burns up
roscoe
 






The bushings on the radius arms do indeed wear out, and after market replacements are available. It is not a simple repair, and it does take time, and plenty of labor. There are write ups here on how to replace them yourself, and a couple methods for doing it. Search in the first gen stock section.

The steering being loose can be one of, or a combination of, different parts. The bearing grooves in the steering box wear out, and cause slop after time. A replacement is best with this issue. $150 or so for a ReMan unit. The rag joint on the steering column also wears out, and cause slop in the shaft, when turning the wheel. This is a DIY fix in a few hours, with replacement parts found at most stores, or online sites. Another thing that can cause play, is the front wheel assembly. The bearing retaining nuts, the spindles, and the wheel bearings themselves can all wear down, and cause slop. Simple test for this, it to raise one of the front wheels off the ground an inch or two, then grab the wheel from the sides and shake back n forth. Any slop found warrants inspecting all these parts. Last thing is the Ball joints & Tie rod ends. If just one of these are worn, it can cause play / slop in the steering. Ball joint test is to lift an inch off the ground, place a long bar under the tire, and lift. If the wheel moves up, and nothing else does, the ball joints are shot. This is a tedious job, but doable in the driveway with the right tools.

All this information is in detailed threads already here. Most have pictures showing what is what, and what was done. Happy reading!
 






The bushings on the radius arms do indeed wear out, and after market replacements are available. It is not a simple repair, and it does take time, and plenty of labor. There are write ups here on how to replace them yourself, and a couple methods for doing it. Search in the first gen stock section.

The steering being loose can be one of, or a combination of, different parts. The bearing grooves in the steering box wear out, and cause slop after time. A replacement is best with this issue. $150 or so for a ReMan unit. The rag joint on the steering column also wears out, and cause slop in the shaft, when turning the wheel. This is a DIY fix in a few hours, with replacement parts found at most stores, or online sites. Another thing that can cause play, is the front wheel assembly. The bearing retaining nuts, the spindles, and the wheel bearings themselves can all wear down, and cause slop. Simple test for this, it to raise one of the front wheels off the ground an inch or two, then grab the wheel from the sides and shake back n forth. Any slop found warrants inspecting all these parts. Last thing is the Ball joints & Tie rod ends. If just one of these are worn, it can cause play / slop in the steering. Ball joint test is to lift an inch off the ground, place a long bar under the tire, and lift. If the wheel moves up, and nothing else does, the ball joints are shot. This is a tedious job, but doable in the driveway with the right tools.

All this information is in detailed threads already here. Most have pictures showing what is what, and what was done. Happy reading!

^^^This. I'm in the process of doing all the rubber on the front end. PITA. Soaking the hell out of the right spindle right now because that is on there like...like not a prom dress. Anger does not budge it either.
 






I watched a slop-hack Youtube on removing the lower control arms. I will opt for a shop to do this (lol)...
 






I watched a slop-hack Youtube on removing the lower control arms. I will opt for a shop to do this (lol)...

I'm doing it in my garage. Rusted bolts are your only enemy. If things were not rusted shut, you could have the radius arms out in under an hour, starting from when you take the wheel off.
 






Back
Top